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Yeah, US -> CAN shipping is ridiculous, it's so expensive and tedious filling out pro forma documents and such. Seeing as AC is the brand of the retailer (4x4parts.com = Automotive Customizers = "AC"), the only other readily available option is OME. Ironman4x4 has finally established a NA site and they have springs, but the specs put them between the light-duty and medium-duty OME springs, well below the HD springs you have. The problem with inter-strut spacers is that they induce top-out, just like a taller spring does. You gain lift at the expense of extension travel either way. The convenience of a conventional spacer is that the spring and strut travel is unaltered, but then you alter the operating range of the CV. Inter-strut spacers have their own limitations, though. But let's face it: the limitation is not the lift method—it's the IFS.

Thanks for the input, I agree I need some more rear facing lights and side lights would be nice. I’m considering mounting two of the pods rear facing on the 45° angles of the roof rack so it broadcast at a diagonal on each side. I am starting a rear bumper build where I will have 2 flush mount LED‘s for reverse lights in there down low that will be hooked to the reverse lights of the rig.

So I got tired of the “unfinished” look on the rear and ended up cutting the stock bumper cover to fit over the new bumper and tire carrier. Then I went and painted it charcoal metallic along with the fender flares. I think it came out pretty nice overall. The bumper could use a little more refinement to the cut outs, but it’s getting there. I haven’t managed to swap in the 9449s yet, which is a bummer. I gave it a go in my garage but wasn’t able to get the frame high enough to give myself clearance for dropping the axle, so I decided to wait until I have access to a two post lift again. In the mean time I’ll just lighten up the back to reduce sag lol. Next I’ll be trying to figure out this vibration issue. I’ve narrowed it down to the front drive shaft, so I plan to take off the shaft entirely to see what happens, and if the vibration disappears then I’ll bring it to a drivetrain specialist to balance it and check run out and Ujoints

Bumper is on. Loving it so far, massive upgrade over the brush guard. Just waiting till Monday to add the tubing over the grill and headlights. The steel shop is closed over the weekend. Then I also need to find a good mounting point for the fogs Took her on a trip to the mountains today

Ah, I see where you're confused. Open and LSD are both called H233B, even though the guts are a little different. Same gears, same housing. Even the 33-spline rear end in the R50s (versus the 31-spline in WD21s) is still called an H233B. The concept of the clutch-type LSDs in these is fairly simple. Imagine you've got a standard open diff. As soon as one wheel loses traction, the spider gears send all the power that way, and it peels out instead of pushing forwards. Unhelpful, right? Now stuff a bunch of clutches between those spider gears and the diff casing. The clutches make the spider gears harder to turn, and since spiders only turn when one wheel is going faster than the other, those clutches make it harder to do a one-wheel peel. The FSM says it should take at least 260 lb/ft to make the clutches slip. It's low enough that you don't chirp the tires on dry pavement (like you would with welded spiders or a spool), but high enough to give you a fighting chance off-road. The clutches can wear down over time, but I can't imagine the kind of abuse it would take to get that 260+ lb/ft down to zero. Much more likely you're rolling on an open diff. As for the vent tube, unless the rear end is making horrible noises, I would just check the fluid and replace the tube... especially since you're planning to swap in an LSD axle anyway.

reviving an old thread? yes - sorry. Just figured I'd post up for those future seekers of information. of that zerk fitting on my 2001 Qx4. I could only find a zerk/grease point on the front propeller shaft. when checking the rear propeller shaft, I found no serviceable point - which confused me; from what I understand the grease point is to grease the slip yoke within the shaft and if the purpose of the slip yoke is to allow contraction/extension of the propeller shaft due to suspension changes, why isn't their one on the rear as well? sorry for calling it a propeller shaft for all you "drive shaft" folks out there