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I took apart my manifold 3 times for various jobs such as the power valve screws, coolant crossover pipe and valve covers and I've used both OEM gaskets as well as the Mahle complete set and the Mahle imo looks very similar to the OEM gaskets and I have no issues with them. Here's a link to the gaskets and they also have Felpro which is fairly reputable as well. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,2002,pathfinder,3.5l+v6,1431960,engine,intake+manifold+gasket,5424

of course the engine would be inside the car lol but great display of how it works. the work needed to be done ends at 14 mins, very easy if you just slow down and keep track. also at 18:26 in the video, you’re staring directly at the power valve screws, there is 2 for each gold power valve. @raingoat this would help when trying to explain the procedure!

Hey everyone! Just picked up a 1999 Nissan Pathfinder SE this weekend with 168,000KMs. Single owner, just serviced at the dealer with front brakes, timing belt, and water pump. Small bit of surface rust on the right rear that I’ll be cleaning up. Going to need a nickname for her. Can’t wait to dive into the forums! Edit: I see there’s a spot for introducing yourself. Sorry for missing it this time.

Ditto! I have lifted my whole rear end with a Hi-Lift in my hitch shackle. I have the OEM hitch which is significantly more robust than the aftermarket ones as it has extensions that extend up the unibody underneath. It was emergent/urgent & it was sketchy but I’ve done some of that kind of thing in non-automotive settings. I would NOT use the running boards as a jack point. I will consider my sliders once they are welded on but that would still be a last resort as there is significant risk of damage to the vehicle - either from the lift or from the Jack misbehaving & hitting the doors. I now have a steel front bumper & would consider lifting off that; however, I have reservations there as well - both stability if the jack & some lack of faith in how the bumper mounts to the unibody. You can use a Lift-mate to lift a wheel and help with building up or shoveling our with obstructions. With a wheel change you would then need to put something under the body & lower & remove the wheel - obviously not ideal. Another advantage of a Hi-Lift is acting as a come-along (basically a manual winch) for recovery or for moving obstacles. I carry my OEM scissor jack & a 5T bottle jack all the time. I’m looking at the Safe-Jack accessories for my bottle jack & I have a 1cm thick poly foot for the jacks by Reese. I also have had an ARB Bushranger exhaust jack for >15 years. It’s a pain to pack. I’ve never used it & I stopped bringing it. It’s been hanging in my garage 11 years. My Mom does usually pack hers but I don’t think she’s needed it. In 17 years, I think I’ve only lifted the truck 2-3 times at most - my primary reason for carrying the Hi-Lift was emergency extraction as I was typically remote & solo. Hi-Lifts are a pain to mount & sketchy to put up & down on your roof (I always fear losing control & smashing up my metal or popping a window) I generally consider jacks as insurance for emergencies & bad luck. With reliable tires and judicious driving you should hopefully never need one.

Welcome! And interesting that he has that grill on a 99! The plot thickens with the amount of variations in our vehicles.

How many miles did it last ya

Ah, a silver Pathfinder in the NW, we’re all going to have a hard time making sure we get into the right trucks! But seriously, Welcome!

Bro, you need my #! I would have come any gave you a hand. Gonna PM it to you for future reference! Sent from my SM-J327P using Tapatalk

I got lucky pressing the tabs in with a flat head screw driver. I was not so lucky at the junk yard.. I lost my mind trying to remove the blasted thing and busted my knuckles pretty bad while I was freaking out. There’s blood all over that pathfinder lol people are going to think something bad happened in it! Mine was leaking a little all the time and began to really leak badly when you first started pressing the brake pedal and down to about half way. It made the engine start misfiring when it would leak badly and then the brakes would be extremely stiff to the point where I couldn’t stop quickly if I needed to.

This is a common problem with the RE4R01A automatic transmission in the Pathfinder. Its likely the reverse clutch basket snap ring. It will break and the debris have the tendency to start to damage forwars gears, although some have had a loss of reverse with no other issue presumably from a clean break that snap ring. This year has been a bad one for the R50 automatic trans. Quite a few have had this issue. You need a rebuilt trans or to rebuild the unit in your rig.

Thanks man! I would love to do the job myself but I’m just worried I’d run into a problem that would stretch it past a day and screw me for work. It’s my daily driver so I’m kind of in a tough spot. But I’ll do some research and see if it’s reasonable.