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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/03/2019 in Posts

  1. It did it again a few days later but that time I found the issue. The plug going to the distributor was loose on the distributor because the holding clip is broke off somehow. I put a couple wraps of high voltage tape around the connection for now and so far it hasn't done it again.
    1 point
  2. Pano didnt upload in quality, my apologies Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
    1 point
  3. Went up some Forest Roads near Kaslo, BC Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
    1 point
  4. Yes. You first need to remove the dash bezel (2 screws on the bottom, and tension clips above the vents). Then pull off the fan speed and temp control knobs. The faceplate pops off to reveal the bulbs.
    1 point
  5. Yes, I have done it. All of the instrument cluster and AC control lights in mine have been converted to white LED (which ends up looking slightly bluish due to the color temperature.) They dim just like the OEM bulbs. I think I got mine at superbrightleds.com. Sorry, it was so long ago that I forgot which bulbs I used, but you will want to choose bulbs that have the greatest number of LEDs mounted omnidirectionally.
    1 point
  6. Oil questions are interesting. Everyone has their brand they prefer. The most important thing, change it regularly. Doesn't matter if it's dino or synthetic. Personally I have started using 10/30. Summers get hot here, winters aren't that bad. Rarely freezes here.
    1 point
  7. Sorry, but this thread is nonsense. It’s maybe the 3rd or 4th post where you’ve claimed that everyone’s giving you BS about rebuilding a diff. Well, considering I’m one of those guys who has provided plenty of information through forum posts and direct messages—the same guy who has rebuilt several of these units, done numerous axle projects, who hoards Nissan diffs and axles, and even offered to send you a completely rebuilt unit when you first started complaining about it—I’m trying to not take this personally. But frankly, I think you’ve got some unrealistic expectation from all the shops you’ve contacted and are probably poorly conveying the problem, and it’s these posts that are becoming BS. Seriously, you’re asking about what is effectively an SAS without steering components, yet you won’t just go to a damn junkyard, pull a <$200 differential from practically any Pathfinder, Hardbody, Frontier, or Xterra, check the backlash with a $10 tool, and swap it in? A day, tops, in labor, <$300 in parts and fluids, and access to the exact Factory Service Manual used by Nissan technicians, to be done with this problem? You even have an opportunity to improve your driving and towing characteristics (via upgrade to LSD and/or lower gearing for a whopping $0 extra), without having to deal with any of the front gearing because you’re 2wd?You’ve got to be kidding me! Face the fact that most shops don’t have experience rebuilding Nissan diffs because they probably don’t fail often. But any drivetrain or off-road shop can simply rebuild that diff for whatever they charge Toyota guys. It’s the exact same design, and it’s a trivial one requiring little more than hand tools to swap, and not much more to rebuild. Bearings can be bought on RockAuto, and diff gaskets from Nissan for cheap. And the FSM describes every single step to do it! But here we are talking about swapping entire axles from Fords! I can tell you it’s significantly harder than just going to a junkyard and buying an axle from a Pathfinder, and yet still more difficult than just pulling the diff. I say get your hands dirty or get rid of the truck if this is really the hassle and decision you’re facing.
    1 point
  8. If you have a 4x4, gear ratios will be a big issue. Parking brake will be an issue, and you'll probably have to get custom brake hoses to connect from the Pathfinder body to the Ranger axle. Is the width of the axles similar? Your bolt pattern will be different too, so you'll have to get new rear wheels and have it mismatched so you can't rotate your tires. Not to mention actually bolting the axle under the truck, which will require a good deal of custom fabrication. Honestly you'll be far better off getting a good condition used R50 axle from the junkyard if you can't find a shop you want to commit to for rebuilding your current axle. If you think finding a shop to give you a rebuild quote is difficult, see what happens when you bring up a Ranger axle swap; most fab shops will probably just try to avoid getting involved entirely.
    1 point
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