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Hello everyone, I am new to this site, but I have done plenty of project work on nissans over the years, most notably restoring an e23 urvan and replacing & upgrading the tired z20 engine with a rebuilt Z24, which involved a lot of open heart surgery & plastic surgery. So I am really an expert on restoring, rebuilding & improving nissan bodies, equipment, components & Z24 engines in Queensland, Australia, rather than in pathfinders per se. However, I have turned my attention to refurbishing a 1990 pathfinder DX (a basic pathfinder level with a twin spark Z24S, based on the Nissan Navara utilty truck), which I am planning to lightly power up in various ways: I'll post as things progress. I am hoping that I can tap into your collective knowledge in the coming months & years as the project develops, because my knowledge in the specifics of Pathfinders is limited...And nothing beats experience! To kick things off - and noting that different countries called the same model different things and there have been a few posts around the web converting things between the various generations of pathys - I was wondering if there was a simple bolt on / exchange to convert the existing rear drums to discs? Glad to hear any suggestions and figure out conversions if needed - ije.

Missing link is the one I need. What is the total over all length? This picture appears to be 1/2” EMT conduit. Will 3/4” do? Thanx for the input. MTG

We’re advocating their use.

that’s what i was thinking? i would be more concerned if there were twisting forces on the brace but they don’t move like that. either way you’re right it’s better than nothing and i’ve put it off too long now i just can’t wait to do it finally. if i notice stress fractures or bends i’ll replace it and if i flex a little and look and see it’s bending more than i’d like id also replace it but until then it’ll be good. [emoji1360] i appreciate the input! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aluminum will be better than nothing. Basically...your just preventing the lca’s from pulling apart so it should be strong enough

not a pathfinder, but here’s my ride to prom tonight. My grandpa’s restores 66 GTO, bored out motor and headers, among other things

Time for an update! Another month gone by... It's been busy the last several weeks, as usual. We've since acquired all the steel and hardware we need to do the first batch of kits. We've done a limited run of parts to validate our anticipated production processes, and things are currently in @TowndawgR50's hands to complete the first finished kits. For now, this first pass only includes a complete 3" and 4" kit (and technically the 1.75" spacer, thanks to the modular design), as well as two panhard drop bracket options: a short bracket that gives a simple 3.5" drop, and a long bracket for 3.5", 4.5", or 5.5" drops. We also intend to offer extended rear sway bar end links. Expect some teaser pics soon. We are planning to install the first 3" kit in less than 2 weeks (!!), so we're both excited and stressed. Soon after, The Gambler will get outfitted with the 4" kit. If everything goes to plan, we'll start cranking out the remaining kits for the initial group we've been working with. Also, we want to make a clarification about the camber-correction function of the strut spacers: while the two-piece strut spacers allow for camber adjustments, we are still advocating the use of camber bolts. The adjustment feature is primarily to make large camber adjustments during the installation process. You'll be able to eyeball the camber during installation, and get it dialed in relatively well, but our secondary objective is to simply make sure the truck is alignable—and for many people (including myself), this means taking the truck to a professional shop. The use of camber bolts gives alignment shops the ability to accurately dial things in, using a part/process that they are very familiar with. While we like our strut spacer approach, it will be very foreign to many shops, who may refuse to adjust them. Keep in mind that R50s didn't have camber or caster adjustability to begin with, so there's already the initial challenge of informing the shop that you've added camber adjustability. Feel free to ask any questions, otherwise more updates to follow soon!

I love your pictures Zach!!

Sorry I haven't been around, life has been busy! for future reference, Yes 123456 is the firing order starting with #1 on the passenger head and alternating back and forth going back. You will need to tune the carb too, in factory set up it's way too rich. It's been 5 yearn now and it's still running good. Starts with just a bump of the key and always runs good! Also yes I made the spacer plate myself. I'd seen this style plate for 4 barrels but not for 2 barrels so I made my own, mostly to hold the throttle cable. James