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I have a 1996 LE with an automatic-overdrive transmission (not sure which one) and it has a crazy shifting issue. If I take off easy, it will shift through fine, but get down on it and it is like it is stuck in high gear until you hit about 30 to 35 and it works like it should. I replaced the fluid and screen in it, but the fluid wasn't really all that bad at all and there was very little crap on the screen or the magnet in the bottom of the pan. The change did make a little bit of difference for the better, but just minimal. Now this truck is supposedly sat for about three years before I bought it and it sat for nearly a year more before I got it running again and I've only put about ten miles on it since, so could this just be a sitting issue that will work itself out with a little time or is it something that needs to be addressed now?

Well it could be throttle position sensor issue. If it acts different depending on pedal position then maybe the sensor has a spot or section that isn’t right. I think they’re like $20 on Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/infiniti,1999,qx4,3.3l+v6,1355778,fuel+&+air,throttle+position+sensor+(tps),5136 Sometimes the cheapest parts on Rockauto work just fine, then sometimes they are junk.. I would say go to the junkyard and grab one but I got a bad TPS for mine at the junkyard. It’s an important part for it to not be working right. It could also be slow movements inside the transmission’s valve body. There was a person on this forum with a transmission that wouldn’t shift past 2nd until it was warmed up. He pulled a valve body from a RE4R01A that was in a 2003 Xterra at the junkyard and stuck it in his Pathfinder and it completely cured the problem. Id start with the TPS first, then if that doesn’t work then you might consider the junkyard valve body.

On a side note to the original question, not positive if there is a write up however replacing injectors is easy. Take out the fuel pump fuse from the dash, turn the truck over and let it run till it does. Take off your gas cap and leave it off to decompress whatever else is left in the lines. Take off the intake manifold held down by like 5 or 6 Allen bolts (along with a lot of hoses, honestly this is the worst part). From here you can access all the injectors, they have a small c clip around the plug ins you need to take off (If I remember correctly that or it's just a clip) then just slip the connections off. If I'm remembering right there are 2 Phillip's screws holding down a plate for each injector you take off and that should be it. Then you just twist and walk the puppies out. Careful not to get any dust or dirt In the ports as you change them and leave the new injectors in the box until you are about to put in that one. I'd recommend going one by one just to reduce any chance of grime. Bolt everything back together and by on your way. If I've forgotten anything or left anything out my apologies however the process is very simple and straight forward.

That is strange because myself, I hate my spare tire being under the vehicle and most 4X4ers I know hate it too.

Yup, I saw a factory equipped facelifted R50 on my commute not too long ago. Assuming it was from Canada but I didnt see its plates, scrambled to try and catch a photo and failed. The swing gate is subtly different from the early R50 units.

WAM Bumpers makes a rear bumper with swing arm. They claim they bought out TAG/Kennesaw Mountain and are not just another version of them. So far the reviews have been solid. I plan on getting one in the spring when my tax money gets here. https://www.facebook.com/WAMBumpers/

Friend of mine has a 2003 Pathfinder and he put the tire carrier off a 1997 (similar to mine) on his and if I remember right the only real modification he had to make was the plastic trim pieces against the body.

I've seen one R50 with a rear tire carrier. The part numbers you listed are for the underbody carrier though not the uber rare swing arm.

Dropped the transmission to replace my rear main seal and gaskets on the coolant crossover pipe. Crappy job for sure. Big thanks to @ferrariowner123 for the help!

Slowly chipping away at that swingate retrofit project.

If the wheel bearings on the WD21 are anything like an R50, part of the assembly is a disk that threads into the spindle and has holes in it. Those holes align with something else and screws go through em. If you don't get the disk tightened down far enough the wheel bearings will be a little loose. It can be a bear to tighten it down until the next position where the holes align, but when you do it'll all be better. About 1500 miles after I did the bearings on my R50 I had to pull it apart and tighten it one more position, as the bearings had settled in while driving a little better than I could get em by hand.

My buddy let me use his prep booth for the afternoon which was a sweatbox but I got it done but I am not going to quit my day job to be a painter it works I guess, not a great job. I did score the HitchGate it was perfect timing I was gonna go with a new HitchGate Solo but the setup would have been well over $1000, although my setup is quite heavy and I have banged it a few times due to the lower departure angle but it's not a huge deal and I am quite happy with the usability and look. The rear links are from 1Aauto.com they are just the cheap Chinese knock offs but I had them painted a nice grey when I did the suspension. I would highly advise against mounting a RTT to anything but a Thule or Yakima or like setup or I am designing a custom platform rack myself for lighting, awning and accessories that is a lower profile then my current Thule set up. Any stock rails will not hold the static (sitting) or dynamic (moving) weight of a RTT and you put yourself at risk of have it damage your car or hurt somebody if it breaks loose.