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The KS is barely used and is only used under really rough or extreme conditions. if you're chasing a stumble and fear the KS, unbolt it but plug it in and wrap it in a towel and see how it feels. When I had my scan gauge plugged in while I was still NA, I NEVER noticed a difference when I had a KS code vs not in the timing, they simply aren't making enough power and are already running way too rich to matter anyways. Once I became supercharged that is a different story as it changed timing advance NOT fuel mixture. Im having real knock issues but I think it's my VERY restrictive exhaust. Check your cats. It's 1 wire usually on the left pin of the plug. Its like that on my brothers 95 WD21, my 97 pathy, my donor VG33ER and my friends Xterra. Make sure your throttle position sensor is working and check your IAT sensor if you have one and anything from leaking between MAF and the cylinders is gonna cause a problem so even check your valve cover gaskets for huge holes, it pulls fresh air when you open the oil cap while its running believe it or not. You said dizzy swap but did you change the actual ignition coil? its not attached to the dizzy on the VG30 only the 33 is it built in. I would check your MAF and especially the O2 sensor since theres only 1 it relies on I believe. You could be having an O2 bias and it's sending a signal more one way than the other.

Update. There were several suggestions to bleed the cooling system. Finally had some time to devote to the truck. Lifted the nose and ran the truck with the radiator cap open. A few bubbles came out then the truck got hotter after a few min and started spitting out lots of coolant. Turned it off, refilled the spillage, turned it back on, no bubbling then closed the system. Had errands to run so used the truck for 2-3 hrs in the middle of the afternoon in 110 degree temps. The needle never moved from normal temp. Hope that took care of the overheating issue. However, noticed more gear oil splattered around and also noticed a new issue. Saw fumes coming out of the vent behind the rear bumper and noticed a gas smell. What causes that issue?

The knock sensor in my '93 is wired the same as yours. Two terminals, only one pinned in the plug. The circuit diagram on EF&EC-99 agrees. The sensor must ground to the block. When I checked mine, chasing a knock sensor code, I did the same test on EF&EC-137, and like you I found no continuity. Annoyingly there isn't a spec for the sensor itself, but I noted that my old (bad) sensor read about 2 megohms across the terminals, and the new one read 558k ohms. The '97 manual specs 500-620k ohms, so the replacement was within that spec, for whatever that may be worth. If the knock sensor hears something that the computer doesn't like, the computer pulls timing (EF&EC-19). If the sensor circuit reads out of range, it'll set a code. EF&EC-23 says that if the code is set, it'll pull timing "according to operating conditions," which it does not elaborate on, so, . Mine seemed to get a little power back after I replaced the sensor, but that's just the butt dyno talking. I do not see anything in the manual suggesting that a knock condition (or a bad knock sensor) would change the fuel mixture. This means your rich condition is likely unrelated. I would suspect injectors (would be weird for all six to be bad, unless someone's previously swapped them for the cheap crappy ones that a few people on here have had trouble with), oxygen sensor (gets stuck reading "lean"), or coolant temp sensor. A bad temp sensor or corroded connector can tell the computer that the engine is much colder than it is, so it assumes higher air density than exists, and dumps too much fuel. I had a stumble just off idle and an intermittent failure to idle when warm on mine, which turned out to be the plug for the MAF. The sensor itself was OK, but the pins on the plug side were hogged out. Messing with the plug would clear it up for a while. I finally got sick of it and spliced in a new plug, and it hasn't done it since. I didn't notice any signs of a rich condition, though, and it ran fine so long as I didn't expect it to idle. Funny, I recently started my first rodeo with an EJ25. Timing belt/water pump/etc. Those valve covers look like fun.

The independent front suspension doesn’t like to get lifted and play nice with ball joints. A 2’ lift is something that won’t put too much stress on ball joints. A body lift will help with giving the look of a lift without suspension issues. No idea what year your rig is, so I’m speaking generally.

Timing belt is done. The last time I changed it was 2012. I was surprised how good the belt looked. curious if anyone else bought the kit from Napa and had an issue with the water pump. The pump will mount, but the snout is too long. The water pump by itself was the same way. I had to order one from Oreilly’s. The water pump I did back in 2012 was purchased from Nissan. It was the same manufacturer as the one from Oreilly’s and Napa.

I tore my alarm out a while back. Not that I used it anyway. I just didn’t want to have any issues.

The FSM states to check knock sensor by checking for continuity between pin e of the harness and ground. page 137 of EF & EC continuity should exist. Well it does not, pin e is the signal wire, there is no wire at all for the ground side of the sensor in the harness, even though the Hitachi/Asimo or whatever new name is has two pins on the knock sensor. (my old KS was definitely bad/cracked) Did prior years use a 2 wire harness? Just wondering why the FSM is in error unless I am missing something? I have read various opinions on whether the ECM adjusts timing based on KS signal/voltage. I would think that is the entire point of having a KS and I know from experience in subaru EJ25s that they run just like my pathy does right now if the KS is bad. First time on a VG30E for me. I am chasing down intermittent stumble and lag like so many have posted before me. Failed emissions high HC and CO, all plugs black, and you can see it in the tailpipe and smell it. The solenoid for my AAC is bad as well, ordered a sentra AACV in the hopes the solenoid might fit. temp sensor is nominal, temp gauge nominal, MAF clean and nominal, swapped distributors no change. I have reman injectors from rock auto but am waiting on the sentra AACV part before installing. If it doesnt fit I plan on plugging up the vacuum lines and manually adjusting idle. Kirk.

Checked rockauto.com?

I would start with the troubleshooting for code 32, EF&EC-93. (Download the service manual from Nicoclub if you haven't yet!) Rule out the vacuum lines (just replace them if they're original!), the EGRC solenoid, the EGR valve, whatever else the manual says to check. IIRC my '95 had a short hose under the EGR-BPT (the UFO-looking diaphragm deal beside/above the EGR valve) that had burned through on the back side, so I'd check for that too. There's also a test for the temp sensor. EF&EC-135 says to test the sensor at 100*C/212*F. It should read 85.3k ohms (plus or minus 8.53 ohms) at that temperature. If it was open or shorted, it would be throwing code 35, but it is possible it's just drifted far enough off spec that it's lying to the computer. The temperature it reads corresponds to how much exhaust is flowing through the EGR valve (more exhaust = more heat), so if it's reading low, that could make the computer think the flow is lower than it's supposed to be, causing your code 32. The temp sensor lives in the dirtiest part of the engine. Unless it's crusted up on the tip of the sensor like the corn on a corn dog, I wouldn't expect the soot to insulate it enough to matter. Might be worth cleaning it if you go through the rest of the troubleshooting without success, or if you have it out anyway, but I'd be surprised if that was the problem. Carbon buildup in the valve and/or manifold could also be decreasing flow. I've heard of the EGR on the old TBI engines blocking itself up completely. I haven't heard of the multiport (what we've got) doing that, but the EGR port in the manifold on my '93 looked like those "this is what cholesterol does to your arteries" posters at the doctor's office the first time I had it apart. (It wasn't coding, but it's the earlier/federal-smog system, with no temperature sensor, so the computer would've had no idea.) The unplugged sensor makes me suspicious that the PO might've been tinkering. I've read that you can get away blocking off the EGR on the federal-emissions trucks, because they don't have the temp sensor. Perhaps the PO blocked the EGR (either to bandaid a bad EGR valve, or because racecar yo), the temp sensor ratted him out, he unplugged the temp sensor, that didn't magically fix it, and then he sold it to you rather than fix it properly. Good luck!

I guess I should make my own post despite there being many others, however I'd like to get some others' opinions on if I should go this route before buying anything. (dang it I just answered it in my own head because I know the answer) When I first purchased my old lady, I had found out later than the EGR Temp Sensor? Maybe wrong name.. was left disconnected by the previous owner. It was completely covered in soot to the point I could not just wipe it off. I have to admit; I did a poor job at cleaning it and basically left it black before I plugged it back in. My question.... Could this sensor just need to be removed again and properly cleaned to clear my ECU code 32, or would the soot not be an issue for this sensor? I should have done it by now, but I suppose after barley putting the plenum back on, I am just dreading taking it off again. Whatever. Anyhow... Appreciate all input from you guys! I'm still learning a lot from this forum.

I appreciate the knowledge. I ended up replacing all 6 of the injectors and the white smoke is gone along with the code 51 that led me to the injector swap anyhow. Now onto a new code after I found out the recent owner had left (probably on purpose or during diagnosis) the Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor unplugged. Dreaded code 32 *sigh*

Damn, they did all the connections to the door lock harness with Scotchlocks? That must've taken a while to unpick. Good work clearing it out, one less thing to give you problems!

Good times... Mine is due for that too! And converting the 1991 engine from square to round tooth at the same time.

I just tackled this, this past weekend. In my case all connections were tapped (minus gnd & hood), no harness piggy back connections etc. That said it was a straight forward removal as the others have stated. This was a headache waiting to happen...

Thanks for the info, pics would be great if you can swing it! I know the W/D22's use a nose cone on the starter, next time I'm at the junkyard I may pick up a spare. Mainly wondering because I'm in the process of replacing my WD21 starter (reman Bosch unit) and if I ever have to do it again, if the highest quality option is a non-W/D21, I would know it's a sure thing and not a gamble.

they're shaped differently so it may bolt on and work yes but it probably won't first the same in the vehicle. I can send picture of both my R50 and my brothers wd21 if needed

This is also why the Pathfinder has a unique flywheel that no other VQ35DE uses.

Would 75w-90 be ok for the t-case?

Will these starters freely interchange? If the transmissions were basically the same from 86-04, then in theory yes?

Checked the fan clutch, its fine. Yeah 3.5VQs are notorious for burning oil as they get over 100-125k miles. I solved that issue with my first build, I swapped out a JDM engine, with 55k on it, for the original that had blown a piston at 200k. Ive put ~35k miles on it since i got it in ‘21 and change the oil every 3k miles. Hadnt thought about the diff breathers. Will look into that.

check your Diff breathers!!! I forgot that part

is your clutch fan dead? You can drive on the highway with the AC on with 0 fans but you really gotta be bookin' it for that. I run Efans so my driving temps are usually 174-178 (3.3 with a triple row aluminum and 170 thermostat) on the highway on a colder day and seem to like 190-200 with my fans on in traffic (gonna upgrade to T30's) so pretty cool for this engine but im also not running the clutch fan like I almost guarantee you still have. if you spin it with the engine off and it has next to 0 resistance its probably that. I don't know much about the 3.5 but don't they have an oil burning issue any ways? if your engine is getting hot and your oil starts thinning its gonna burn quicker so I wonder if you have a clutch fan issue and normal VQ issues also. just my input.

I considered that as I had that issue recently with my wife's mini cooper, however, we drove for 2.5 hrs straight when I left in the morning, had the AC going the whole time, ran at 3k rpm, and didnt have an issue until we stopped and I left the truck idling. Thats why im at a loss with the overheating issue, doesnt make sense. The gear oil is from the 3rd member. It is a swap from an xtrerra with 4.63 gears, a trusted knowledgable member of the forum repacked the lsd and resealed the diff before i made the swap. The gaskets werent leaking when my mechanic put it in.

As to the possible overheating. I see you had a rad flush. I'm willing to bet you have some air in the system. Try turning on the heater and running it for a bit to circulate the coolant through the system to see if the bubble goes away. I believe there is a bleed screw on the back of the intake. There is one on the WD21's. If it's set up like the WD21, the radiator is not the highest point in the cooling system. So the bleed screw is there to get the air out. I had a little air bubble in mine and it was acting weird. It would get hotter than normal and drop very little when driving. At the time it was over 100* so It wouldn't have cooled down much while driving. For the oil leak, you need to get under the vehicle and see what's leaking. If you can't tell, you would need to clean everything and then drive it to see if you can find where it's leaking.

Next up, timing belt and all that goes into changing it.