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Guest dwj119

Help With Changing AT Filter - Dropping the pan

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Guest dwj119

As some of you know, I lost reverse. Some members recommened cleaning the pan and filter on my 95 XE AT. I plan on giving this a shot this weekend. Some posts say that you have to remove a piece of the exhaust system to drop the pan. Is there any to avoid this? Do you have to put a new gasket on or can you get away with reusing the old one? If you do have to remove a piece of the exhaust system to drop the pan, how hard is it, any special tools needed?

 

Any help, tips are GREATLY appreciated as I am a very novice mechanic and get especially nervous with trannys.

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as far as gasket is concerned, yes youll want to replace it, either by using rtv gasket-in-a-tube type deal or getting a new one from a parts store. ill have to look at my pan/exhaust today, since i nee to drop my pan as well, to drill and tap for a temperature sender

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I didn't have to remove any exhaust piping to get to the pan. It's a whole bunch of 10mm bolts. Drain the fluid first, of course, and slowly remove the pan. You won't be able to drain all the fluid out of the pan so have a drip pan ready. The pan has a magnet at the outlet of the filter. clean the magnet of metal shavings. the filter itself is not hard to remove. You will need a new gasket. Only special tool is a gasket scraper. I don't really like the cork gaskets. To me, they don't seem to seal well.

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I don't really like the cork gaskets. To me, they don't seem to seal well.

if put on correctly they are better then rubber ones. B)

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Use Indian Head shelac, it works well with cork.

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if put on correctly they are better then rubber ones. B)

:bow:

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:bow:

lol. just my opinion based on personal experience.. no need to bow.. :rolleyes::D

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Guest dwj119

No need to remove any exhaust parts! Thats music to my hears, usually those bolts are all rusted up and a real PITA. I wonder what those other posts were referrring to that stated they need to remove the crossmember exhaust pipe. Maybe a different model / year? My pathy is a 4x4 if that matters at all.

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No need to remove any exhaust parts! Thats music to my hears, usually those bolts are all rusted up and a real PITA. I wonder what those other posts were referrring to that stated they need to remove the crossmember exhaust pipe. Maybe a different model / year? My pathy is a 4x4 if that matters at all.

i dunno. i have a manual tranny so it's a little different but it looks like one of the exhaust pipes goes accross the pan which may make it a real pita to remove. good luck and let us know how it went.

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I seem to recall that a couple fo the bolt heads are not easy to get at but with a u-joint socket or a 10mm wrench and a couple bloody knuckles, you should be able to get it out.

 

As for a gasket... no matter if it's cork or rubber, I always smear a little RTV'ish goo on it to help seal it.

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Guest dwj119

Are you referring to the pan or the crossmemeber exhaust pipe?

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I want to say he's referring to a couple of bolts towards the front of the tranny pan. The cooler lines are in the way to get to it. I didn't have much trouble use a 1/4" ratchet and extension.

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Guest dwj119
I didn't have to remove any exhaust piping to get to the pan. It's a whole bunch of 10mm bolts. Drain the fluid first, of course, and slowly remove the pan. You won't be able to drain all the fluid out of the pan so have a drip pan ready. The pan has a magnet at the outlet of the filter. clean the magnet of metal shavings. the filter itself is not hard to remove. You will need a new gasket. Only special tool is a gasket scraper. I don't really like the cork gaskets. To me, they don't seem to seal well.

This maybe because you have a 2wd (per your profile), I have a 4x4

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noice! learned something new!

Edited by Cuong Nguyen

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I should add that my transmission exploded three days later.

 

Then i put in a Junkyard tranny.... which exploded on the way back from the mechanics.... Talk about a sense of humour failure for next few days.

 

Then I had my original tranny rebuild. Been great ever since. Oh the things I do for my pathy.

Edited by Filthy Luker
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atpan175oq.jpg

 

lol. yup.. save yourself the trouble and just use the sawzall right off the bat.. i banged, and bled and cussed before i decided to go to ACE to get new bolts.

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Guest dwj119

Somebody should put Filthy's writeup in a sticky or howto.

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Guest dwj119

Just wanted to thank you guys for your help, unfortunately changing the fluid and a new filter did not fix reverse. Guess I'm looking at a rebuild, dammit.

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Guest SuperSon

Can you maybe add a few more of those donut hi tech magnet in there? :idea:

 

Awesome write up on that and thanks for sharing it with us Luker :aok:

Edited by SuperSon

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well... changed my filter and fluid on Sunday of last week, lost reverse today beyond pissed right now... looks like its gonna be a whole new tranny

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well... changed my filter and fluid on Sunday of last week, lost reverse today beyond pissed right now... looks like its gonna be a whole new tranny

Were you experiencing any symptoms before the maintenance operation, was the failure caused by faulty maint. during the fluid/filter change, or was this just an unfortunate coincidence?

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I had a recent flush and filtre change. The mechanic did not totally drop the pan because he said the exaust pipe were in the way and it would have cost me more to remove whatever pipes were in the way. He said the flush was still done and it was caulked up good after the flush. i now have a slow leak from somewhere. I have a 95 xe 4x4. Does anyone recommend tranny leak stuff? I am thinking that the mechanic should have dropped the pipes to do abetter job. Not sure if the new gasket in the kit was used.

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