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jonathanpalmer12

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Hey guys and gals, I was driving home and i noticed my pathfinder with the 3.0 started to run a little rough, but was fine unless you hammered it (the throttle was lagging on it). Well it stalled out on me and I couldn't get it started back up. Well I got it off the road and was able to bump start it and it would idle fine but didnt want to revv up. Well I tried to drive it home didnt do very well so I back it back down to the gas station and now it doesn't even want to run on a bump start or starting, it is spitting out black smoke and sounded like a race car at idle but worse. Any ideas. I just changed my idle control valve on it.

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Hey guys and gals, I was driving home and i noticed my pathfinder with the 3.0 started to run a little rough, but was fine unless you hammered it (the throttle was lagging on it). Well it stalled out on me and I couldn't get it started back up. Well I got it off the road and was able to bump start it and it would idle fine but didnt want to revv up. Well I tried to drive it home didnt do very well so I back it back down to the gas station and now it doesn't even want to run on a bump start or starting, it is spitting out black smoke and sounded like a race car at idle but worse. Any ideas. I just changed my idle control valve on it.
Check the ecu under the passenger seat for codes. Could be any number of things. Have you had any overheating issues? Was there any warning?

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I'd recommend a quick check of the spark plugs/plug wires. Easy enough to do and at least it'll tell you your plugs didn't crack for some reason or wiring got messed up.

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Black smoke means it's running rich. +1 for pulling codes as a place to start, though it's entirely possible the computer has no idea what's wrong either. If a sensor's way out, but not out of its allowable range, the computer trusts it and the engine runs like crap because it's calculating its fuel mixture based on inaccurate sensor readings. My first suspect would be the temp sensor, the two-pin one on the upper coolant neck (the one-pin is for the gauge on the dash). Check the plug for any obvious damage or corrosion, and try to start the truck with it unplugged. That should force the computer to guess the engine temp, and if the sensor's hoopajooped, the computer's guess should be better than the data it was getting. (It'll fudge data for a few sensors if they're not hooked up, I think the temp sensor is one of them.) There's also a resistance check in the service manual for the sensor itself (also the procedure to pull codes from the ECU). If it's not that, plug it back in and do the same checks on the MAF and the oxygen sensor (the plug for the O2 sensor is on the passenger's valve cover, three wires, I think it's two white and one black but I may have that flipped around).

 

Idling fine but crapping out when you boot it makes me think the fuel filter's clogged, but that would make it run lean, not rich. I've heard of the fuel pressure regulator failing and sending gas through the vac line into the intake, but it seems like that would cause the most trouble at idle.


Also check your spark plugs. Plugs won't cause a rich condition, but if some are richer than others, that might point towards a solution. Also, running extremely rich can foul spark plugs to where they don't work properly.

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I’d start with the coolant temp sensor and the MAf sensor wiring. It is known to be problematic.

 

I’ve worked on a ton of these trucks and I have never seen a failed fuel regulator before.

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3 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:

I'd recommend a quick check of the spark plugs/plug wires. Easy enough to do and at least it'll tell you your plugs didn't crack for some reason or wiring got messed up.

I did, didn't do anything I still had spark.

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2 hours ago, adamzan said:

I’d start with the coolant temp sensor and the MAf sensor wiring. It is known to be problematic.

 

I’ve worked on a ton of these trucks and I have never seen a failed fuel regulator before.

Okay, I'll check my MAF and coolant sensor tomorrow. I was thinking it might of jumped time but I'm not sure. I also had to order new lines because I had cut the lines going into the air intake on the back side and they are pinched, but it ran fine before so I dont think its that

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I ended up having it towed and turns out it was a problem with the ECT and had a wiring issue.

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Good to hear you got it, thanks for closing the loop. :aok:

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