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R50JR
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Tire should be turned until the yellow dot is at the valve stem or in your case tams unit. its the low side on the tire the valve will compensate for a little of the weight removal. 17oz I would have 180'd the tire or sent it back, I used to work for americas/discount tire for 14 years. I got a little knowledge on the rubber side haha.

What does the red dot signify? I've read ignore yellow if red is present.

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What does the red dot signify? I've read ignore yellow if red is present.

Radial force variation is similar to radial runout and is a result of a heavy or thicker area being manufactured into the tire due to variations in component thickness, placement and overlapping. Radial force variation applies more force against the road at the tire's thicker spot as the tire runs, which causes one sidewall to flex differently than the other. The result is tire/wheel assembly vibration and irregular tread wear.

To avoid or minimize these problems, whenever you see a red spot, match this up with the valve stem-unless you happen to have a steel wheel that has a dimple on the exterior side of the rim area. The dimple indicates the wheels' low spot and is spec'ed by some original equipment manufacturers so that they can match mount tires and wheels installed on new trucks at the factory.

If you see both a red as well as a yellow dot on the tire, the red dot takes priority. An easy way to remember this is the phrase ``Red Rules.'' Ignore the yellow dot and match the red dot to the wheel low point dimple as some vehicle manufacturers do or, if no dimple is marked on the wheel, align the red dot with the valve stem.

From what I read

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I have the falken wild peaks i love them i have them on AE steelies.. But I had a bent rim that sounds like your situation. You can tell its bent when they are balancing it usually.

 

Edited by JimyJames
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Take it back. it used to be a company policy to match them up when I was there. it should still be. why pay for a job not done correct. also over time as the tire ears down it'll lose its natural round form ,thus why folk experience rider disturbance over the duration of tread life remaining,proper balance and alignment tire and both wheel alignment are key to ride comfort and tire longevity. protect your investment its the only thing on your vehicle that is touching the ground and keeping it planted.

 

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Take it back. it used to be a company policy to match them up when I was there. it should still be. why pay for a job not done correct. also over time as the tire ears down it'll lose its natural round form ,thus why folk experience rider disturbance over the duration of tread life remaining,proper balance and alignment tire and both wheel alignment are key to ride comfort and tire longevity. protect your investment its the only thing on your vehicle that is touching the ground and keeping it planted.

 

Extactly what I was thinking! So should I match the stem to the red or yellow dot? Is ‘red rules’ relevant?

 

 

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The general guideline for tire balancing weights is that the total weights used shouldnt exceed 1% of the total wheel and tire weight. The Falken website says that tire is 42lbs. Idk what the oem 17 inch rim weighs, but lets assume its at least 20 lbs. 62 lbs is roughly 1000 ounces, so that would allow up to 10 ounces of balancing weights to still be in spec. Even with 17 of those 1/4 ounce weights its still less than half the allowed amount and thus well within range. Obviously you should take it back if your not happy with it, but my guess is that youll find out the rim is either bent or slightly out of round and thats probably about as good as its going to get. When I was still using the original rims on my 03 two of them were out of round and required more weight to balance. As long as they still balanced and I couldnt feel anything while driving, I didnt worry about it.

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match the red dot. you paid for a service. tires are more likely to be out of round then a wheel "rim" is. as its not a permeable item.

Rim wasnt referring to part of the wheel, I just use the word rim and wheel interchangeably, rim=wheel. A 15 or more year old wheel that has hit who knows how many potholes and other bumps is actually very likely to be a bit deformed and no longer perfectly round, which adds another whole factor to the balancing equation.

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I’ll try to get over to DT this Friday. I hardly drive the car so it just sits most of the time. I’ve probably driven it 30 miles in the past month. I wanted to get out camping in the local desert but it’s already in the low 100s

 

 

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Anyone familiar with the General Grabber UHP's? Getting a set put on this Friday.

Hi,

 

Could you please not be rude and use my thread as a way to inquire about something a quick google search can help you with. It is not difficult to find many sites with this information.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=general+grabber+uhp+review&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS780US780&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjJgb3_hcDaAhWjVN8KHY-hAoEQ_AUICSgA&biw=1455&bih=722&dpr=1.1

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  • 1 month later...

The general grabber UHP. Good tire. what size are you looking into? also type of driving ?vehicle? Hankook makes the ventus which is also a great tire a bit of body roll due to a softer sidewall so bumping up 4-7 PSI above rec vehicle pressure will compensate. both are very affordable.

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Did you take your truck back to DTC/ATC to have them 180 the tires?

Yes, eventually I did. They did move them around and now they are fine. I haven’t updated this but I have some diy skids in the works right now. So I will update when I get a chance.

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I had some time today and cut the skids. Got it done with a jigsaw! They aren’t perfect but they are straight. The rear skid will cover the transmission/transfer case up to gas tank. Now to figure out how to fab the missing link to mount them.

 

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What thickness material did you use? And aluminum or steel?

3/16” 6061 aluminum. They larger piece feels like it weighs about 25-30lbs. I may just be weak.

 

 

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Edited by Astrorami
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So I took a look under the pathfinder yesterday and noticed the fresh oil dripping from the drain hole at the bell housing. I’m thinking RMS. I have other future plans without the car so I am debating if I should fix or not. ab0972ab9bfe100f7aebe43041edfef6.jpg

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I’ve been busy these past few days trying to get this thing put together and fit correctly. Thankfully, I think I’ve finally done it. The rack is a generic basket from ebay. Definitely not heavy duty steel, but it is solid how I mounted it. I still need to finish up some details like paint but the test fit is excellent.

 

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I made the brackets out of scrap aluminum I had from cutting the skid plates.

 

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Originally I used 1” tubing but that didn’t work very well due to the off camber of the roof rails. The rack wouldn’t reach the tubing. I went back to the metal supply and got 2”. Here is how the pieces are put together:

 

The holes in this photo are for securing the tubing to the rail.

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Here is the inner side of the tubing. I drilled through the underside of the aluminum to bolt it directly to the basket for a single piece design.

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The length of the basket is perfect for me. It only covers a bit of the sunroof.

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RainGoat told me a couple of other forum members used electrical clamps to mount their racks but I couldn’t really get an idea of how their baskets sit. From the beginning my main concern was the rack interfering with the sunroof which is why I went with the 1” aluminum for a spacer. It gives almost 2” clearance between the glass and lower tube.

 

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Here is the final test fit.

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Edited by Astrorami
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Although this car isn’t my daily and I don’t ever plan on mall crawling with it I wanted to secure the traction boards. I thought of a few different ways to lock it but settled on using a 1/2” receiver lock.

 

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1229bd2ecf99487a4d7d38211227c63f.jpg

 

 

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