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Efan control


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11 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   Citron

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 09:37 PM

https://m.summitraci...parts/prf-30115

I am looking at installing a kit something like above. Does anyone know of a spot I can thread in the temp sensor, or do I need one of these inline adapters, something like below.

https://m.summitraci...HgaAjC6EALw_wcB

Other ideas welcome, but I am trying to do this on a budget. The Dakota Digital kit would be neat but too expensive.

#2 OFFLINE   RCWD21

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Posted 09 August 2017 - 09:52 PM

I used an inline adapter with my Dakota digital install. But given that the sensor for our temp gauges is the same design it's plausible to just tap into that connection. I've read of lots of people (mostly on here or infamous) just tapping into the existing sensor.

Obviously I'd make sure that the activation temp is where you want it, a resistor or something of the sort might be needed depending on the controller you use. For an example the Dakota digital requires a 300°F capable sensor to operate correctly.

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#3 OFFLINE   Citron

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 07:49 AM

The kits I am looking at have no controller, it is all relay logic. The temp sensor is just a switch that closes at x temp and opens at y to energize the coil of the relay that runs the fan. You can also energize the coil whenever the ac clutch is operating and put in a switch to manually turn off the coil for water crossings.

What you are talking about tapping into is the sending unit that has a variable output, hence the need for the resistor, correct?

#4 OFFLINE   onespiritbrain

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 09:36 AM

Subbed. I want an efan as well.


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#5 OFFLINE   RCWD21

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 10:24 AM

The kits I am looking at have no controller, it is all relay logic. The temp sensor is just a switch that closes at x temp and opens at y to energize the coil of the relay that runs the fan. You can also energize the coil whenever the ac clutch is operating and put in a switch to manually turn off the coil for water crossings.

What you are talking about tapping into is the sending unit that has a variable output, hence the need for the resistor, correct?

Essentially yes, the ON temp of the kit in your link is 185 so you'd want to get the engine to operating temp take a measurement and see what the sensor is seeing. Your goal is to basically match the resistance of the 2 sensors (temp gauge sensor and new kit sensor) so the kit thinks it's using the supplied sensor it comes with. You'll need to heat up some water and have a thermometer in with the kit sensor to see what it's resistance is when the water reaches 185°F. You shouldn't have to worry too much about the OFF temp since once the coolant temp is lowered the fan will cut off.

The only problems I can think of with using that kit is that the sensors work opposite of each other in respect to their resistance levels. They'd need to both increase or decrease as temp rises but I would assume they both decrease resistance as temps get hotter.

The other problem is that the supplied sensor is an actual thermal switch that shuts once temps reach 185 or higher and then opens once they get to the turn off temp.

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#6 OFFLINE   RCWD21

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Posted 10 August 2017 - 10:29 AM

Subbed. I want an efan as well.


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I'm using the Dakota Digital PAC-2750 with a 70amp relay for the low speed and a 150amp continuous duty relay for the high speed on a Ford Taurus fan.

It does an amazing job cooling the engine on low speed alone and you can tap into the AC trigger wire to activate high speed when you turn on the AC. It pulls some serious current so if you go with that fan make sure you get the factory plug with it as normal spade connectors can't handle the initial start up current requirements of the fan.

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#7 OFFLINE   Citron

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 05:10 PM

Since it is just a switch, I would expect the ohms to be really low, around 1. I don't think the OEM sensor ever gets that low.

On another note, I was searching around for the threads you were talking about, I couldn't find any referencing using the stock sensor to run the fans, but I did find some talking about using the dual fans from the Maxima. That interest me because the PO put in a flexlite fan without a shroud, just zip tied to the radiator. I want to put on a shroud to improve and disperse cooling. Looks like I could get the Maxima fans from a jy for much less then a shroud for the flexlite.

Do you have links to those threads about using the stock sensor?

#8 OFFLINE   RCWD21

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 05:23 PM

I dont sadly, they were just found in my search for more info about the Taurus fan. Why not go with a controller kit that has the temp probe that you can slip inside the upper rad hose? I've read that they're a lot more reliable that the thermal switch type like in the link above.

The maxima fans are 2 fan 2 speed set ups with 4 wires total. Both set of wires have to be connected in order to achieve "high speed" on the fan. They do mount nearly perfectly on the radiator though and I have a set of the plastic shroud type in the garage. The set you really want to go with according to the threads I've found are the metal shrouded one's but everyone I've ever found was either already gone or rusted to pieces. From what I can remember the motors on the plastic shroud one's are the same.

I went with the Taurus fan due to wiring issues with the Dakota controller, not to mention the much higher CFM.

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#9 OFFLINE   Citron

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Posted 11 August 2017 - 07:56 PM

Do you know what years had the metal shroud? Is there any difference besides the metal shroud?

#10 OFFLINE   RCWD21

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 09:00 PM

The only year I've been able to confirm was metal shroud is 87/ 88. The metal shroud is supposedly just easier to trim to clear the steering box (it is kind of tight in there) but there's plenty of material on the plastic shroud to trim too so I don't see the issue there. I pulled my plastic one from a 93 or 94 maxima I believe. You want the one piece unit not the 2 individual fans. I believe that switch happened in 94?

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Edited by RCWD21, 12 August 2017 - 09:01 PM.


#11 OFFLINE   RedPath88

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Posted 12 August 2017 - 10:29 PM

iirc you want to get the 3.8L Taurus (dual speed) fan, which is what I run in mine. have had it in there for a very long time and other than a burned out controller, I've had no issues with it.

#12 OFFLINE   RCWD21

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Posted 13 August 2017 - 08:02 AM

iirc you want to get the 3.8L Taurus (dual speed) fan, which is what I run in mine. have had it in there for a very long time and other than a burned out controller, I've had no issues with it.

That's correct, I forgot to mention that. A brand new fan on high drops my idle about 100rpm or so but it'll blow leaves off from around the wiper blades. I also have a non modified 110amp quest alternator and 1000cca battery so it doesn't pull too big of a load so if you have a weak alternator be careful. I was never able to get a true answer of exactly how much it really pulls on start up so I went overkill on my electrical for it.

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