NovaPath Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 To describe this as best as I can I will explain the situation in which it happens: Turning left(or right) to get onto the main road, get on it a bit(accelerator 3/4 to fully floored): The steering wheel will be cocked to the right as I am accelerating, then as soon as I release the accelerator the wheel will release back to the left(normal straight position) -OR- The same situation, the wheel will remain cocked to the right until I hit a sufficient sized bump which will then kick the wheel back straight. -OR- I jerk the wheel back and forth real quick and that will sometimes center it again. Occasionally the correction will be accompanied by a "pop" or "clunk" but not always. I thought this was due to my rear trailing arms being totally shot, but it has persisted since I have replaced those. I've checked the rack bushings, and they seem relatively tight. Turning the steering wheel back and forth lightly while parked does not shift the body around at all, just moves the wheels slightly. Ball joints are tight, lower control arm bushings are tight. Having the hubs disconnected seems to make the problem slightly worse then when they are engaged, but the problem is still there. Any ideas? One thing I'm thinking is to check my adjustable camber bolts to ensure they are tight, but I'm not sure how that would affect the position of the steering wheel....Easy enough to do I suppose. Thanks for your help, I was planning on digging into this more before posting but I'm sitting here bored watching the voice with my wife, so figured I might as well post up and see if anyone else had some thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Ha, I think we're driving the same truck...I'm having almost the exact same problem. The steering wheel is ocassionally off-center and I get a pop when starting turns and over bumps (two bumps if taking something at an angle, like backing out of my driveway and going across the curb). I suspect it's the sway bar bushings, so I'm installing a new set this weekend. The sway bar on the passenger side has always been a small amount off-center inside the hole where the bushing is, but now it looks like it's touching metal. Since I hear the noise on the side that's turning (i.e., left turn, noise from left side), I doubt it's any one side having an issue. The only shared systems are sway bar and steering. Since you've been testing things with the front sway bar, maybe that pushed it over the hill? Also, learned an interesting way to tell if the steering rack bushings are loose or worn...there might be a grime line where the rack has shifted in a bushing, pushing any dirt and grease away from the bushing on either side. I'll have to take a better look when my skid is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 Fully inspect your rack and pinion bushings. Dont have to remove anything other than the hold downs and then just pull the rack out slightly to remove them. If worn or cracked. Replace them. Mine were only about $15 for both from the dealer. Parts stores just as good. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5523Pathfinder Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 When is the last time you had a alignment done? If toe is out enough it can cause return-to-center issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiiiFiii Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I second the steering rack bushings. I recently chased down the same problem in my 97 pathfinder. may I suggest the blue colored urethane bushings that are for sale on eBay right now. The oil filter tends to spill all over the driver side rack bushing which is no bueno for rubber. I swapped to the urethane bushings and have fixed the steering pull after full lock upon acceleration. It firmed up the steering and rid me of a clunk over bumps, as well. Be sure to properly lube urethane if you choose them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Be sure to properly lube urethane if you choose them. Sure...if the part is supposed to move. I don't recommend lubing urethane steering rack bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiiiFiii Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Sure...if the part is supposed to move. I don't recommend lubing urethane steering rack bushings. If you say so... So, to the OP, be sure to throw that poly urethane assembly lube in the trash if you purchase what I've recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 If you say so... So, to the OP, be sure to throw that poly urethane assembly lube in the trash if you purchase what I've recommended. Is this sarcasm or agreement? What you've recommended is wrong. Bushings are meant to dampen NVH. Urethane bushings generally do less dampening than rubber, but last longer and firm up the application (control arms, sway bars, steering racks, body-on-frame/subframe). Lubing urethane bushings is to aid movement around the bushing in such applications like control arms, or to aid assembly in some cases. The steering rack needs neither: it is supposed to stay stationary, and many of those bushings are of a split design to ease installation. If you want to lube them, go nuts; the rack has notches to keep the D bushing in place. But when the rack starts moving because the O bushing is now lubed, blame the lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HiiiFiii Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 It was utter sarcasm. You will require the lube in order to more easily install the poly bushings. Especially the driver side. The set includes said lube for that purpose. Not to mention the lube ads further water-weather proofing. Not to mention further prevention of oil saturation on the driver side during the next oil change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawairish Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 It was utter sarcasm. You will require the lube in order to more easily install the poly bushings. Especially the driver side. The set includes said lube for that purpose. Not to mention the lube ads further water-weather proofing. Not to mention further prevention of oil saturation on the driver side during the next oil change. If it works for you, great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Having installed quite a few sets of poly bushings from both Prothane and Energy, on different makes, I'd say the lube is all but required. Rack bushings can be a royal bitch to install even with the lube. The lube won't harm anything once everything is tightened down... with or without it the bushings or rack will not move. On a non moving poly bushing, the lube only helps with installation and protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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