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brc19761

What Should I Do?

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You can see my older post of where I keep getting a P0455 code which is a "evap" leak on my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder. I bought a new cap from Autozone and the check engine light came back on after I erased with my OB2 scanner. I have researched and read the fsm about the fuel system. I even tried a manual clearing of the code (I was thinking this would permantly erase the code from computer). I was definitely wrong on this one. You can read the post where I said I need help and see that I thought I had fried the computer on my Pathfinder.

 

I have seen where some earlier Pathfinder's have a charcoal canister, purge solenoid, vent solenoid, and such. I was wondering if my 2008 had the Charcoal canister ? The fsm also states that I need to replace the gas cap with a Nissan brand only. So, my question is should I buy a factory Nissan gas cap from the local Nissan dealer and see if it works? Did I mess up when I cleared the code when I replaced the new cap from Autozone and did not let the "service engine soon" light go off by itself?

 

This has been going on since before Christmas and this is the middle of January and I have not been able to drive my Pathfinder b/c I am scared I am going to damage it while driving it with the warning light on.

 

Should I try a Nissan gas cap and see what happens ? Or take it to the dealer b/c other than a gas cap change I have no idea what to do? But I know taking it to the dealer will cost me a fortune that I do not have right now.

 

Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thank You,

 

brc

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Aftermarket gas caps seem to lead to problems with the evap system from what I have seen on Chevrolet models we work on at the dealership. The aftermarket ones must allow a little air to be introduced into the system or something. Might not be the same for Nissan though

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Thanks for the reply. I priced a gas cap at my local Nissan dealer and it was around $36.00. Think I am going to get one tomorrow and see it that will do the job.

 

I actually bought a three year 36 thousand mile warranty when I purchased the Pathfinder last January. But I have no idea if the warranty would cover this. It is mostly for powertrain. But no matter what it cost to get fixed "if it is covered under the warranty" it will only cost me a $100.00. I will take the warranty papers with me tomorrow and see if it is covered, but I seriously doubt it is.

 

Thanks

 

brc

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As djratlif mentioned, aftermarket caps are hit or miss. I've used Stant caps with good luck; dirt cheap compared to OEM. $36 from your dealer sounds steep for OEM, too...I'd think they're closer to $20-$25 online. The Stant was a few bucks (and 5% off coupon for Rock Auto in the vendor's section). I actually just replaced mine the other week; it was throwing a similar code on my R50 (I had a hunch my old cap was too loose even before the MIL came on).

 

How is the fitting on the cap when you both tighten and loosen? (What's the brand and p/n, btw?) If it comes off too easily after it clicks closed, that could be a sign of a bad fit. Your local emissions station may also be able to test it (for a fee?), but otherwise, I'd just keep the receipt and the old cap.

 

I also wouldn't go replacing anything evap-related without first just checking all the hose fittings on the evap stuff. A lot of that stuff is just hoses. The canister you're talking about should be close to the fuel tank at the rear of the vehicle; the FSM should show it's exact placement. It's usually just a black box with some hoses coming from it.

 

Also, you won't hurt anything by driving it under this condition. The ECU might make minor alterations to the fuel delivery, but nothing that would damage the engine. You're also fine reseting the code as you did (hopefully without the other battery issues!), though you might be more content just letting the AutoZone guys doing that for you with a scanner. Also, some codes trigger at first detection and take multiple (usually >3) detections to turn off the MIL.

 

On a parting thought, and just to be sure, you are turning off the vehicle before opening the cap, and not starting it while the cap is off? Those will immediately throw a code.

 

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Thanks for the replies. I don't know the exact brand of the cap I bought from Autozone. All of their products are just marked duralast. However, if I were to closely inspect the writing on the Autozone gas cap I may get a manufacturer. I saw some pics of a person working on the charcoal canister on either a R50 or R51 and it was located on the rear passenger side. They say it is a pain to work on b/c you have to remove the spare tire, and seeing the top of the canister is rather difficult. That is just what I read though.

 

I have my own obd2 scanner. I have drove the Pathfinder more than three trips as is it states in the manual (with the new Autozone cap) and the light came back on and hasn't went off yet. I also have replaced the gas cap while the Pathfinder was not running. I have inspected the lines and saw the connections of the evap system in the engine bay. They were not cracked or anything. The Pathfinder only has 70,000 miles on it. It had 63,000 on it when I bought it a year a go. It has been kept in my shop the entire time I had it and whoever owned it before made me think they had it garaged.

 

I have a 1994 Pathfinder 4x4 and a 1997 D21 Hardbody 4x4 and have never had a issue like this before. I have owned many Nissan trucks in the past, but this is the only one I hesitate to work on b/c of my lack of knowledge of the mechanics on the 2008 Pathfinders.

 

Hopefully the oem gas cap I get today will solve the problem. If not off to the dealership it goes and all my money as well :).

 

Thanks for the information and keep it coming.

 

brc

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If it's not the cap, you probably have a hose that has a small split or something. I found mine were all spit were they go onto the barbs. Easy and cheap fix.

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Well it was not the gas cap. I bought the new oem gas cap Friday from my Nissan dealer. I put the new gas cap on in the dealership parking lot and drove it home with the service engine soon light on. I had to make several stops before going home (more than three) and the light did not come on. When I got home that day I reset the code with my obd2 scanner. I drove around and took it out on the hwy for a total of about 25 miles and the light never came on.

 

On Sat. I headed out and within a short distance it came back on. I will closely inspect the lines and hoses. But what about solenoid's and sensor's where are they located in the fsm and how would I be able to see if they are good or bad?

 

Thanks,

 

brc

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Are you pulling the same code again, and where there multiple codes? The fact that the MIL didn't come on after a few trips is a good sign...and evap leak at the gas cap triggers a 1st-trip DTC I believe.

 

The hose locations vary, but as adamzan mentioned, they can split pretty easily. If the split isn't bad/long and there's enough slack, I just cut of the end and re-attach.

 

For the sensors, the FSM should tell you exactly how to test each sensor. It usually requires a voltmeter and sometimes a 12V power source; it'll specify the voltages or resistance to look for and at which condition. The FSM should also have a matrix for telling you what to check first.

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First I would like to thank everyone that posted comments, provided much needed information, and very helpful links. I really haven't got to read and research all the information everyone provided me, even in the earlier posts. All b/c of time issues or I guess you could best describe it as "life" and all we have to do in a day and those things that come up and catch us off guard.

 

No there was not multiple codes. Every time it came back PO455. I did read the section you provided on the solenoids and how to test them. I don't think I have the tools to check them. This is what I plan to do, but as you can read I do not know the exact location of the solenoids (even though I did read the section in the fsm as to what they do, procures to check them, and what they do).

 

I have taken the time this evening and had the time to go over all the information everyone has provided me and even doing a little research of my own.

 

Well it was not the gas cap. Two caps one oem and still did not solve the problem. Now my next steps will be 1) carefully check all the evap hoses for any cracks or tears. 2) check the vent control valve to see if it is faulty or stuck. 3) check the purge valve. 4) Check for damage or cracks to the charcoal canister.

I have seen in the fsm the drawn diagrams of both of the solenoids and would recognize them if I saw them. If I remember right the purge valve is under the hood, but I don't exactly know where. The vent control valve is located next to, on top of, or somewhere close to the charcoal canister.

 

My questions are does anyone have any pictures or diagram of the two solenoids? Do you have to remove the spare tire to gain access to work on the canister and vent control valve?

 

Thanks,

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I'll take a crack at it, noting I've never crawled around an R51. Let's use the FSM as our reference...this will help you cut to the chase on what to do. There's a lot of info, and it can be overwhelming.

 

EC-30 shows where the EVAP control solenoid is. Looks like you have to remove some plastic to see it on the engine.

 

EC-32 shows a more precise position for the solenoid. It appears to be towards the front of the engine (item 1), between the cylinder banks, with a tube running to a service port (item 2) joint near the oil filler cap (item 3).

 

Also on EC-32 are the location of the rest of the EVAP components at the rear of the vehicle. The point of reference appears to be from above the frame, and since I can see what appears to be a coil spring and lower control arm for the suspension, these components will be on the driver's side behind the rear tire and fuel filler, mounted up on the frame. I imagine the cross member in the picture is before where the spare tire is mounted (or perhaps the tire hoist is on that cross member). The canister (item 7) is a black rectangular black box the likely obscures the pressure sensor (item 5) and control valve (item 6), since these are probably mounted above that, or on it.

 

EC-46 gives a better system description, that should help you trace some hoses. If you can identify the fuel tank and canister, you should be able to see/access the related components, hoses, and wiring.

 

EC-47 and EC-48 indicate the exact locations (ha, I'm typing this as a scan the FSM, so I'll just leave all the stuff above and make this the "a-ha!" moment). The latter page also shows the routing to the engine bay.

 

EC-224 is the start of EVAP-related P codes. Although you're throwing P0455, some other P codes troubleshooting may be of interest. For instance, if you suspect the solenoid as being bad, a separate P code may cover its troubleshooting steps. They're all related.

 

EC-233 has a sketch of the canister.

 

EC-265 is for P0455. I'd print out that section. The first page has a list of possible causes...you can cross a few off (though I'd never mentally cross any off). The possible causes is great starting point, since a few of these suggestions are not specifically mentioned in the diagnostic procedures, instead generically as "inspect".

 

EC-266 has the diagnostic procedure. If you took your car to the dealership, this is exactly what they would do. I would step through this, even repeating the gas cap tests. Follow the "Without Consult-III" steps. For steps requiring pressurization...your local AutoZone probably has a basic hand pump with gauge to rent for $0. The steps will also indicate if you need to refer to other EC pages for processes. For the 12V tests, two 6V batteries and cheap snap-on terminals from Radio Shack, wired in series with a little extra wiring, is all you need. You just need to supply a small voltage to listen/feel for a click.

 

Lastly, EC-483 (EVAP Leak Check) and EC-484 (EVAP Canister) have basic inspection steps. Definitely check this section out, especially if you suspect anything with the canister.

 

Hopefully your answer is in the diagnostic procedure. I'd imagine that even if you've never done this before, you could probably have everything tested and inspected in 1, maybe 2 hours. This is a pretty DIY process; just read things closely. The code isn't hurting anything on the truck, and the light is just more of a nuisance than anything at this point. If it were throwing an engine code, then I'd be worried. But emissions stuff?...meh, small beans on these vehicles. Fact is, it probably hasn't altered anything about engine performance. It's definitely not worth taking it to a dealership unless you don't want to do this, or if the cost of replacing a part exceeds your $100 deductable (and is covered by your warranty, of course), or if you're due for emissions testing soon and just need it done.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

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For the 12V tests, two 6V batteries and cheap snap-on terminals from Radio Shack, wired in series with a little extra wiring, is all you need. You just need to supply a small voltage to listen/feel for a click.

 

When you are talking about 6 volt batteries are you talking about the ones that go in the old square flashlights? Or is their another type of battery and what are the snap on terminals from radio shack.

 

I checked with my extended warranty and they will not cover this problem. My sister has been seriously ill for the past six months and sometimes I am called upon for doctor appointments and watching my nephews. B/T work and my sister I never know if I am going to have to set aside for something. Well today was one of those days and I did not get a chance to work on my Pathfinder. If it is one of the solenoids I priced them at autozone. One is $60.00 and one is $90.00. Hope it is just a hose :).

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Sorry, I was having a brain fart when I was typing that. I was thinking 9v batteries but erroneously typing and using 6v to do the math. Scratch all that...

 

Your best bet is this: http://www.radioshack.com/enercell-12vdc-vehicle-power-adapter-plug-w-leads-and-switch/2700049.html. This way you can just use your truck's battery via cigarette socket, and it's fused. I keep old cigarette adapters around in case I need to rig something like this up, but normally I just use a DC multi-volt wall adapter I have.

 

By the way, I took a quick peek under my truck...the canister and goods are in plain sight right where I expected, and easily accessible. Doubt it's any different on yours. When you get a chance, of course...

 

Sorry to hear about your sister; hope things get on the up and up.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks so much for that link. That is just what I need. Man thanks to you and the others you do not know how much I appreciate your help, I know this is just a small problem compared to the many vehicle problems I have faced. I am just weird when it comes to something I have to pay the bank on every month, pay insurance on every month, plus buy a tag for (which is due this month :). Also I like taking pride in working on my own vehicles. I grew up with my Dad being a car enthusiast. He went to school to learn how to do paint and body work so he could just fix up his ride way back when he was young. That grew into him opening his own paint and body shop as side work. He worked his full time job (still does until he gets ready to retire) plus worked on vehicles after work and every weekend. Along with just regular paint and body he also did a lot of restores. He finally hung up his spray gun and bondo around 2004 b/c his first grandchild was growing up. He still messes around with stuff when he can find the time. Growing up I also was a car enthusiast. From my first vehicle when I was 16 (which was a Nissan Hardbody Truck) to the present I have never paid for someone to change my oil.

 

Oh, by the way, for some strange reason the state in which I live does not require an emission test. We just have what we call inspection stickers. Which means you drive to your local tire store, garage, or whoever puts on stickers and they just check to see if your signal lights, stop lights, and other equipment works. You just can't have a crack in the windshield that obstructs your view or if you have tint it has to be legal.

 

Thanks for all the help. I will probably continue asking for advice b/c this project is still getting started.

 

brc

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No problem, man. I'm from a line of handymen and tradesmen, so I can relate. Working on vehicles is something I enjoy...I also enjoy not getting bent over at the dealership, so I learn to do whatever I can when I can. It started with a stereo in my dad's Mazda 323, then boomed when I got my Frontier after high school. Though I also dabble in making other things, these days. Right now, my head is wrapped around a line-up of utility parts for other R50 owners. If I didn't have other priorities, I'd quit my day job and go buy a welder. (Working on the latter first soon...)

 

I'm guessing you're in state with lots of trees? Haha...having lived in CA and AZ for so long, I remember being shocked when I moved to MN...no emissions test there either. I don't even recall an inspection. Do they even plug into the OBDII to check for issues? I'm just excited that I only have to do emissions every other year.

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