djratlif Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 I'm currently in the process of gathering parts to do the exhaust from the front to the back of my truck since it has rotted away almost completely. It's a 1992 Nissan Pathfinder 3.0L 4wd. The right side manifold has plenty of access and room to work, should be a pinch I figure. After looking at the drivers side manifold however I can't see how to get enough room to get my tools in to remove it. It looks like pulling the a/c compressor and the intake collector off will free up some room but it seems excessive for just a manifold replacement. I am thinking maybe through the wheel well with the tires off I could gain slight access, but I don't know if it'll be enough to get to all the bolts needed. I've been soaking the bolts with penetrating oil and contemplating where to start. If anyone has any tips they would be appreciated as I can't have it down too awful long being my DD. Thanks ahead of time, Derek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 If you remove the steering shaft it should give you a lot more room. It's only a few bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 yep... what he said. Steering shaft, air intake cover and hose, wheel and wheel liner (if you have one), Should be enough to get at most things easily and some things with a little creativity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 oh wait... is a 92 carb'd? forget about the air box then. does not apply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 29, 2014 Share Posted May 29, 2014 A 1992 is MPFI, just like yours. Definitely remove the wheel and go in that way as well. It will allow some acccess and help you see. You'll probably wind up snaking your right hand in from the back as well. Just be patient... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted May 29, 2014 Author Share Posted May 29, 2014 Looks like the steering shaft will have to go then. Heading out to spray it down on lunch to hopefully free it up a bit. Going to get after it by the end of the week if all goes well. Thanks for the tips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 I have finally gotten around to doing this after all summer of procrastinating. The drivers side head now has three studs snapped off in it, the passenger side is all clear. Now its going to be a pain trying to get the old ones out. I have three different extractor sets from the snap on truck, left hand drill bits, and determination. Still looks like with my luck I'll be pulling the head and sending it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestewart395 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I'm dreading this too. Of course it had to be the driver side manifold gasket that disappeared . I'm planning an engine rebuild over thanksgiving anyway so I'll deal with the broken studs then. They aren't broke yet, but I know they will be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 The studs didn't come out like planned so I had to drill them out completely and heli-coil repair the threads. My tip for anyone going into this job is to make sure you have extensions for the drill bit/bits you are going to use. I had the manifolds tore off and didn't have any way to drill the studs until the right extension came in. I had to buy a Dewalt drill chuck adapter to couple with an Irwin 12" extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 I used a right-angle drill attachment when I did mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 This set also helped. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-13-pc-cobalt-drill-bit-set/p-00964084000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2 I like it because it also has a place to store my other extraction stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 I used a right-angle drill attachment when I did mine X2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 I had a right angle drill but I couldn't get enough pressure on it to drill anything at that angle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 if you use a stick or something else rigid and flat and brace it against something on the far side of the drill, you can use leverage to apply firm pressure to the back of the right-angle adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djratlif Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 I didn't think of that. Either way I got them out and replaced the whole system. Stock piping except the converter, I nixed that and replaced it with a flanged pipe I made. Runs a whole lot smoother than before and sounds pretty good too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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