travisg Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) I'm looking around to see about getting a 3" suspension lift kit for my '94 WD21 but i'm not really finding anything. I am wondering if the lift kit for the Hardbody D21 would fit my WD21. if not where do you get your lifts? -Travis Edited January 16, 2014 by travisg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 4x4parts.com Calmini Superlift Lots of good threads here detailing sources/pros/cons. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbley11 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 The front of the Hardbody kit would fit but not the rear, as that is leaf not coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj503 Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I did rough country uca's, and jgc springs. No complaints after 4 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 @Aj503 is this the one you used? i couldn't find any other kits for a '94 nissan other than the hardbody. http://www.roughcountry.com/nissan-suspension-lift-kit-805n2.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 that's the one but you can only use the front parts, as the rear in that kit is for leaf springs as was said. Rough Country won't sell the control arms separately unless you BS them saying something about your truck got in an accident and you need just the arms try here for a package: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-19871995-pathfinder-c-435_437_341_7.html or here for the control arms separate: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-upper-control-arms-p-142.html or Calmini: http://calmini.com/model.php?m=3&b=1&t=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 I may be wrong but I thought I remembered reading somewhere that you could call Rough Country and just order the uca's. Someone may correct me though. I'll be going the same route as @Aj503 and your considering also travisg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Posted a moment too late. What ahardb0dy said is what I read some time ago. Corrected, thanks. TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89Rotary Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 on this note, when oredering JGC Springs. i know most people JY Dive, but on Rock Auto you can order them New. anyone done this? and which springs would you order? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj503 Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 I didn't take the time to bs the rough country support guy, just scrapped the shackles. I just went the IT route for my springs, they were easy to find extract and just cut the pigtails off and was good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 the rough country kit is a decent price even having to get the coils from some where else, sell the shackles or trash them as you did but the a-arms with shocks for $339, can't match that price, 4x4 parts, control arms and 4 rancho 5000 shocks would be $397 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TXPower Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 aj503, what's the IT route, I missed that or I'm not keying in on the acronym? Thanks, TXPower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 missing that too but I think he meant from a junkyard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nice186 Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 when you guys did the lift did you guys needed to extend any hoses or drop the radiator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 with the suspension lift you don't touch the radiator only if you did the body lift.. I never did anything with brake hoses when I had my lifted hardbody I think on the pathfinder you don't have to either, I would think if you disconnected/removed the rear sway bar than you would probably need longer brake lines (and shocks to get the full susp. travel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aj503 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 Sorry autocorrect, jy/junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbley11 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Yeah you could go this route, only 1.5-2in lift. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-rear-coils-15-inches-of-lift-p-497.html http://www.roughcountry.com/nissan-suspension-lift-kit-805n2.html 439 bucks is a deal You can get the 3" coils for 30 bucks more, but then you need a panhard drop and crank your t-bars just a bit more. Edited January 20, 2014 by Bubbley11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted January 26, 2014 Author Share Posted January 26, 2014 thanks you guys this at least give me a place to start. these kits are fairly easy to install yes? I'm pretty competent but don't want to really mess anything up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubbley11 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 The coils I hear take the longest to put in. You don't need spring compressors, but they help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 26, 2014 Share Posted January 26, 2014 thanks you guys this at least give me a place to start. these kits are fairly easy to install yes? I'm pretty competent but don't want to really mess anything up. Yes, a suspension lift is pretty easy on these. To change the rear springs, you have to let the axle droop (remove the shocks, brake line fastener and swaybar, jack it up, support it by the frame, then lower the rear axle. You can articulate it manually and the springs damn near fall out. Be sure to clock mark everything first and line up the spring ends properly). The UCAs up front are 4 bolts for the ball joint and 2 bolts for the spindle. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissanland Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Travisg, these guy's know what to tell you. Precise1 has always given me solid information to work with. Be sure to soak up the front bolts really well with pb blaster or something like it, the 4 bolts to upj can break off pretty easily if been there a while. I had 7/8 break off, but planned on replacing my ball joints anyway. Good luck on your project and have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 thanks you guys for the solid info and links. I'll be sure to post pics when i start this project, it won't be for awhile cause i'm in the process of moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisg Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 Yeah you could go this route, only 1.5-2in lift. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-rear-coils-15-inches-of-lift-p-497.html http://www.roughcountry.com/nissan-suspension-lift-kit-805n2.html 439 bucks is a deal You can get the 3" coils for 30 bucks more, but then you need a panhard drop and crank your t-bars just a bit more. won't i need to get coils for the front as well? if not how does that work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Torsion bar front end, so you tighten the adjuster and the front end lifts. If you run out of adjustment (thread on the bolt), you re-index your bars... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/ I adjust the bars with the truck on its wheels, so you can tell what the actual effect is. Clean off the threads of the adjusting bolt as well as possible and lube it with some oil; it will make it easier to turn and reduce the likelihood of galling. Measure from the ground to the body crease before and after so you know, and keep an eye on your bump stop gaps, 1/2" is about the agreed minimum when lifting. Remember, the higher you go, the steeper the angle on the CV joint and that can become a problem. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmark1981 Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I'm thinking of getting the rough country lify, it seems to be the cheapest so far... Thanks Bubbley 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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