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Hi-lift jacking point at front end


Bluewulf73
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Would this:

 

 

IMG_1720_zps4267bbae.jpg

 

 

Be an acceptable place to jack the front end using a hi-lift jack and bumper strap system?

 

I think it would be as it is a towing point, however, I would like other's opinions, please.

 

Thank you in advance.

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To answer your questions directly I wouldn't recommend using the tow point as a lifting point.

 

Also, with a Hi-Lift it's recommended to only lift one of the four corners of a truck at a time, for which you can use the Lift-Mate accessory that will allow you to lift by the wheel (and take up the suspension droop/slack too). There are situations where you have to lift the entire end of the truck but it makes it very unstable and usually only used to push the truck over...if you've ever seen it done it's scary to watch and do.

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The tow loop can be used to attach a hi-lift jack, although I don't think any of the hi-lift accessories are long enough to reach the tow loop if the jack tongue is properly positioned.

 

If you do use the tow loop, place a rag or other soft protective material between the hi-lift tongue and the strongest part of the stock bumper (on your Pathy, it's the metal part closest to the rivets) and use chain whose load limit is at least 1000 lbs. and a similarly-sized chain screw link (example pic) between the tow loop and the opening under the hi-lift tongue. Don't tighten the screw link all the way so it's still able to be loosened by hand.

 

To determine how much chain you'll need, set the hi-lift tongue against the bumper and measure the distance to the tow loop. Multiply that length by 2.5 and go visit your local home improvement store and buy the chain and the screw link.

 

I have used the tow loop/hi-lift in this manner before, but always keeping in mind the risks of the vehicle shifting sideways if both front tires leave the ground. For this reason, it's probably a better idea to use the Lift-Mate then place something under the chassis to keep the tire off the ground once you remove the Lift-Mate.

Edited by XPLORx4
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That's pretty impressive. Too bad it costs more than the hi-lift jack.

 

On the other hand, you could probably build something similar yourself for under $20

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That's pretty impressive. Too bad it costs more than the hi-lift jack.

 

On the other hand, you could probably build something similar yourself for under $20

 

Impressive is right. I too was thinking...gotta build me one of those! Unfortunately, I don't know where to start. :happy: I might have to splurge.

 

As for hi-lift attacments, I was thinking of using this:

 

bumper-lift.html

 

Attaching this to the hook and lifting away.

 

 

Damn you rebelord, now I wanna get me one of them stabilizers... :pullhair:

Edited by Bluewulf73
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The bumper lift attachment may not attach to the tow loop properly because of the smallish diameter of the loop. Even if the hook fits in the tow loop, the length of the bumper lift attachment will probably not be long enough for the hi-lift tongue to brace against the metal part of the bumper, and you'll put a hole in your lower bumper cover. Plus, you could probably get a short length of chain for cheaper than the bumper lift.

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Actually, looking into this a little more, the bumper-lift will absolutely not work with the front tow loops. The shape of the hook won't work on the tow loop.

 

Question: why do you want to get the bumper-lift (about $26) which isn't designed for plastic bumper covers anyway, when the lift-mate is not that much more (about $34) and will work much better?

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It can be done using two D rings.... how do I know this..... I've done it.... Was it safe, probably not but I got the tire changed on the trail; and in the process I put a crease in my bumper cover and broke one of my offroad lights at the time. But it is a offroad vehicle and not a beuty queen and I had to get the tire changed in order to make it out of the trail...

 

34476_463117696101_607666101_6173627_235

 

change.jpg

Edited by muddfildvaynes
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Actually, looking into this a little more, the bumper-lift will absolutely not work with the front tow loops. The shape of the hook won't work on the tow loop.

 

Question: why do you want to get the bumper-lift (about $26) which isn't designed for plastic bumper covers anyway, when the lift-mate is not that much more (about $34) and will work much better?

 

 

XPLORx4 - You are right, I noticed that as I looked closer at the photo. It will definitely not work. I know it is not designed for plastic bumpers but I did think the hooks might fit/work in/with the tow-hook. My intention was never to use it on the bumper itself.

 

As to why I don't get the lift-mate, well my thought/wish was to carry less (ie: no jack stands to have to support axles) while on outings.I think the lift-mate is a great idea unless I have to change that particular tire when flat. It will absolutely work to get me out of a rut but to change a flat, on uneven ground, I would need to lift said flat off the road by other means.

 

 

The bumper lift attachment may not attach to the tow loop properly because of the smallish diameter of the loop. Even if the hook fits in the tow loop, the length of the bumper lift attachment will probably not be long enough for the hi-lift tongue to brace against the metal part of the bumper, and you'll put a hole in your lower bumper cover. Plus, you could probably get a short length of chain for cheaper than the bumper lift.

 

 

I was reading over your previous comment and recommendations on what to get in order to use the hi-lift with the towing point. I already have some heavy duty chain which I will need to get cut to size in a previous post. I think I will try that before I purchase any hi-lift accessories.

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It can be done using two D rings.... how do I know this..... I've done it.... Was it safe, probably not but I got the tire changed on the trail; and in the process I put a crease in my bumper cover and broke one of my offroad lights at the time. But it is a offroad vehicle and not a beuty queen and I had to get the tire changed in order to make it out of the trail...

 

34476_463117696101_607666101_6173627_235

 

change.jpg

 

Holy Mother of... :wtf: That looks...ummmn... :scratchhead: that is some nastay damage to your light!

 

Was the guy standing holding the truck so it wouldn't shift sideways? :blink:

 

 

:coolpics: Bet there was much of :friday: once the job was done and you were safely off the trail, huh?

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change.jpg

 

The photo above shows something that can be a common safety oversight when using the hi-lift jack. When operated properly, the hi-lift can still be dangerous, and its use should be treated with much respect.

 

Whenever the jack is not being manipulated, the handle should ALWAYS be in the vertical (stowed) position, unlike the horizontal position you see. The reason is that there are two pawls on the hi-lift, and the handle will violently move upwards into the vertical position if one of the pawls fails. If someone's body parts are in the travel path of the handle, they could be seriously injured or killed.

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change.jpg

 

The photo above shows something that can be a common safety oversight when using the hi-lift jack. When operated properly, the hi-lift can still be dangerous, and its use should be treated with much respect.

 

Whenever the jack is not being manipulated, the handle should ALWAYS be in the vertical (stowed) position, unlike the horizontal position you see. The reason is that there are two pawls on the hi-lift, and the handle will violently move upwards into the vertical position if one of the pawls fails. If someone's body parts are in the travel path of the handle, they could be seriously injured or killed.

Excellent safety observation.

 

Thank you for passing this on, this knowledge will come in handy my first time using the Hi-lift.

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Anyone interested in the safe operation of the hi-lift jack should get a copy of Bill Burke's "Getting UnStuck" - probably the best (and only?) instructional video on hi-lifts and winches.

 

To address a couple of your concerns Bluewulf74- I would repeat not to use that tow loop for lifting, there're much better/safer ways to do it. Also, unless you have no other means don't use the hi-lift for the casual changing of the tires, even on the trail...they're just not stable enough. The factory jack sits nicely tucked under the rear seat, it's hardly any extra weight to carry around- use that with a couple of 1x8 boards for a base and you have a much better setup for changing tires and you already have it. Or carry a long reach bottle jack from a Land Rover. Use the hi-lift as a last resort tool.

 

I have a hi-lift with the lift mate but in all the trail runs I've done I've only carried the factory jack and a bottle jack from Harbor Freight along with a few wooden boards to provide a wider foot print.

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Anyone interested in the safe operation of the hi-lift jack should get a copy of Bill Burke's "Getting UnStuck" - probably the best (and only?) instructional video on hi-lifts and winches.

 

To address a couple of your concerns Bluewulf74- I would repeat not to use that tow loop for lifting, there're much better/safer ways to do it. Also, unless you have no other means don't use the hi-lift for the casual changing of the tires, even on the trail...they're just not stable enough. The factory jack sits nicely tucked under the rear seat, it's hardly any extra weight to carry around- use that with a couple of 1x8 boards for a base and you have a much better setup for changing tires and you already have it. Or carry a long reach bottle jack from a Land Rover. Use the hi-lift as a last resort tool.

 

I have a hi-lift with the lift mate but in all the trail runs I've done I've only carried the factory jack and a bottle jack from Harbor Freight along with a few wooden boards to provide a wider foot print.

Hey stioc,

 

Thank you for your advice and explanations. I still keep and use the factory jack for tire changing (when on relatively even ground) my concern was getting stuck on uneven ground with little or not traction and/due to a flat.

 

I will heed your advice and will take a look at the video you recommended as well as use thehi-lift only for situations where there is no alternative.

 

To tell you the truth, if I had it my way, I would rather put a winch on my pathy and winch myself on to flat(ter) ground in order to use the factory jack but I have neither funds, nor knowledge, nor equipment to fabricate a front/rear bumper or receiver hitch to mount a winch on. So, I'll have to make due with what I've got.

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I've used my Hi Lift once & had it attached to the brush guard that I used to have to lift the front. I agree that HL jacks are really only for very high clearance vehicles or to use in certain situations. A few froaders I know use these & say they're great....... http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Spare-BOOSTER-Mopar/dp/B004T636JS

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The hi-lift is a handy tool for lots of things, other than holding a flat tire up. It can allow you to lift the flat high enough to get a bottle jack underneath, to get material underneath to get out of a bad rut. Or a as manual winch,that just takes forever but it does work I have used mine for all of these, only for winching on my pathy and only about 50 yards (snow and runts suck).

 

Bluewulf73, just remember your cell stops being useful about 10 minutes before the trail head around these parts. So be self sufficient and prepared to walk if worst comes to worst, so far I have always driven home but stuff happens so be prepared.

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I've used my Hi Lift once & had it attached to the brush guard that I used to have to lift the front. I agree that HL jacks are really only for very high clearance vehicles or to use in certain situations. A few froaders I know use these & say they're great....... http://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Spare-BOOSTER-Mopar/dp/B004T636JS

 

That looks like a useful tool. Believe me theexbrit, I've been looking around for an alternative (brush-guard, bumper, etc) for a while. These are hard to come by around here. Well, at least decently priced ones... :thumbsdown:

 

The hi-lift is a handy tool for lots of things, other than holding a flat tire up. It can allow you to lift the flat high enough to get a bottle jack underneath, to get material underneath to get out of a bad rut. Or a as manual winch,that just takes forever but it does work I have used mine for all of these, only for winching on my pathy and only about 50 yards (snow and runts suck).

 

Bluewulf73, just remember your cell stops being useful about 10 minutes before the trail head around these parts. So be self sufficient and prepared to walk if worst comes to worst, so far I have always driven home but stuff happens so be prepared.

True-dat. I have been researching other uses (read - watching youtube) for the hi-lift and have it on my pathy with some chain and other recovery gear just in case. Never had to use it yet but am itching to try it as practise (before I really need it.)

 

I don't rely on my cellphone in the bush. Ever. I do carry a CB and FRS radios with scanning possibilities but when I go wheelin' alone, I go expecting no help from anyone. If I get some, I consider myself very lucky.

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There was definitely some :beer: after we got the tire changed and back home, we were in the middle of the woods in the middle of nowhere in NH and we used what we had to get the job done.... I'm not saying it was the safest way to do it but it got done... These days I just throw a tree saver around a thick branch and use my smittybilt XRC-8 to lift the front end... much easier...

Edited by muddfildvaynes
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