unccpathfinder Posted January 2, 2007 Share Posted January 2, 2007 i've just got dont reviewing the FSM and it seems like i would need some sort of press and need to make a locknut tool to remove the rear bearings...are these assumptions corrrect and if so can it be done any other way? i dont have a press or anything...or should i just drop the $ and take it over to a shop and let them worry with it... the RR is nasty sloppy (jacking it up you can hear the bearings moving around in the races) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 how much for a shop to do it? regardless, pretty sure you need a press. a slide hammer might work though and with a little bit of tinkering it probably can be done. oh, check fluid level in there my man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88blk4x4 Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 if you have another car to use, you can take it apart and take the axle to a machine shop and have them press the bearings for you then put it back together yourself. that would be alot cheaper than letting a shop do all of it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 3, 2007 Share Posted January 3, 2007 Yeah, I'd take the axles in to a machine shop. Those locknuts are tough bastards to get off and then the bearings have to be pressed on and off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 3, 2007 Author Share Posted January 3, 2007 hmm...well theres the problem...i work 70 miles away from 8-5 and sadly its my only mobile vehicle at the moment...i am calling the guy tomorrow he charges based on chiltons hrs...if its not too expensive i'll just see if i can borrow 1 of my roommates cars for a day or so... im almost to the point of selling my trailduster and scout getting an altima and keeping the 87 and 95 as my toys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 epiphany came to me tonight while sitting in traffic...i've got a rear end out of a 95 (i've got to check if its the same 1 as mine i know they're both not LSD but i donno if they had a diff 3rd member/axles for auto's and manuals) but if they're the same (splines length and all that jazz) it wouldnt be bad to pull my axle shafts and put those in would it) since the races and everything are contained on the shaft and i know the 1's in the other axle are good i could swap and life be peachy.. my concern is if there is a different type of wear on my ring gear and the other axles it could possibly cause slop and what not or nothing to worry about...i believe nothing to worry about but i've never mixed used with used on the rear end but have done new to used which the new will wear into the used... i would plan to then fix my shafts and eventually swap back...but that would ensure me transportation... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillj Posted January 6, 2007 Share Posted January 6, 2007 if you have a 95 rearend why not swap the whole thing and not worry about disassembling the thing till later then at least youd have transportation while you rebuild the LSD one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 6, 2007 Author Share Posted January 6, 2007 neither one of them are LSD...and i thought about doing that but thats a good bit of work...and im not sure if the ABS sensors are the same on them...i have yet to check it out...but planning on it tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroad95pathy Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 There is one thing you might want to consider, A/T had the option of 4.375 or 4.625 ratios whether LSD or open, M/Ts I believe are mostly 4.375. The ABS sensor should be the same, which logically it shouldn't matter anyway, it's sensing pinion shaft speed not wheel speed. Compensation and adjustment is made in the ABS module not the sensor. It's an infant design compared to what Nissan uses currently. Like gillj said, I'd go for the complete swap, that way everything stays copesetic. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 if i change ratio's how bad is that going to throw off my speedo/gas mileage...and would that do anything funky with the T case? i looked this up in the FSM and it doesnt even say anything really about the RA...just that the manual and auto was a 233b (i have a feeling thats just the casing tho) im going to go out and look at ID plates and see what i can find out exactly what i have... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 maybe I'm silly but after reading all the above posts, just to have some bearings replaced, why bother going through all the headace of removing and transporting a whole axle, or swapping without the guarantee of perfect match, or this that and the other....just to save a few bucks, when you can just pony up a few more dollars and have it done right the first time, along with a warranty. Just a thought thats all. Sometimes its just better to pay a pro rather than risk going mentally insane taking on a job that requires special tools and equipment when they are not handy in ones own garage. Why do I say that? been there done that too many times in the past and ended up calling in the tow truck LOL...and I could have SAVED money just taking it to my mechanic in the first place. Once the shop scored one of my axles so the seal would never work anymore and they had to get me a whole new axle at their expense. The mechanic admitted to scoring the surface while cutting off the old bearings. the seal kept leaking...and once the surface is damaged, its history. thats why I like guarantees Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroad95pathy Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 (edited) The info is in the FSM under the PD section. If you're going to a higher ratio (4.375 to 4.625) you'll lose a few mpg's but I guess that's relative to how many miles/day you put on and whether they're mostly highway or city. The big one to me is if the front/rear diffs don't match in 4WD. That could put abnormal strain on the T-case and other components which would result in bad things happening. If you have an open front diff it wouldn't be quite as severe but not good nonetheless. I wouldn't have a warm fussy feeling doing it myself it the ratios don't match. If the swap is a temp fix and you know you won't need 4WD, then I don't see a problem doing it. I would think the ID plates would reveal the ratio (might have to call a Nissan dealer to decode) without pulling the carrier, I haven't found any reference info for that though, maybe someone else has a clue on that one. That's the problem with taking something to a shop, many times they take short cuts like gas-axing bearings and races off of axle shafts, they should always be pressed on and off. Guaranty or not, you're still looking at down time, who pays for that? Sure the shop will cover the parts and labor if they blew it, but they aren't going to cover down-time, lose of use of your vehicle. Edited January 7, 2007 by offroad95pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 Sometimes its just better to pay a pro rather than risk going mentally insane taking on a job that requires special tools the issue is i drive 140 miles a day (m-f) ...the shop around here that is good is only open m-f...so i was trying to find a way to be able to drive to work while my shafts have the bearings replaced...but i wont be able to do the work today anyways b/c its raining...so i'll end up taking it to the shop sometime this week if my roommate will let me borrow 1 his cars after he gets back from vegas... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 H233B rears changed in the WD21 lineup somewhere, they went from a 9-bolt 3rd member to an 11-bolt 3rd member IIRC. Count the mounting bolts to make sure. The axles on a disc-equipped rear are a skosh longer than the axles on a drum-equipped rear and there is a thrust block spacer INSIDE the diff to make up for it, so if you originally had a drum-equipped rear, the axles from a disc-equipped rear wouldn't be a direct swap unless you tore apart the diff itself and removed the thrust block inside first. I've not measured to make sure of that yet cause I don't have the axles out of my drum rear to compare to the axles from my disc rear from the 89, but I'm FAIRLY sure that's the case, and I'm absolutely sure about the thrust block. You wouldn't want to change gearing on one end and not the other unless you want drivetrain bind and quite possibly t-case damage when 4WD is used. If you left it in 2WD, it would be fine for the time being. Gear ratios appear to be a total mix-and-match from auto to manual transmissions, I've seen manuals with 4.6 gearing and autos with 4.3. Wierd, huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 *goes outside to measure* Disc rear axles are approximately... 25.5 inches from the top of the bearing locknut to the end of the shaft. Just for reference purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 thanks 88...i've got both front and rear off the same year (95) but it was auto...so from what u're saying i could swap the shafts and be golden... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 7, 2007 Share Posted January 7, 2007 Yeah man, if they both have the same brakes the shafts should swap no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 7, 2007 Author Share Posted January 7, 2007 sweet...yea they're both drums...so for the gear ratio diff...they have the same splines/gear pitches just diff size rings in the axle?...sorry im paranoid...if i didnt have to go to work i'd say hey lets go for it but for right now its i have to get to work i cant hope something is gonna work i have to know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted January 8, 2007 Share Posted January 8, 2007 the issue is i drive 140 miles a day (m-f) ... holy crap...thats a haul every day. I work from home and it definitly saves on the mileage. I think in the 5 years I have had my pathfinder I have only put about 23,000 miles on it My next project is to replace the UPPER control arms on the rear. Already did the lower bushings but I still get an occasional "klunk" from the rear and it is most likely the upper ones have shot bushings also. I just dread reaming out those dang things, I may just order two new arms rather than spend a few hours cutting out the old ones and pressing in the new ones. Then again I may just drink a few RED BULLS and go for it LOL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 9, 2007 Author Share Posted January 9, 2007 a press will get the old bushing out just fine...then a torch will get them off of the connecting rods... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 11, 2007 Author Share Posted January 11, 2007 does the carrier have the gear ratio in the casting?...the auto 1 in the garage has 463 (assuming 4.63~4.625) and mine has 4.78...not sure if this means anything or not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 11, 2007 Share Posted January 11, 2007 I dunno, but if they're both US-bought they should only have the two choices, 4.3 or 4.6. 4.88's were available outside the US. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroad95pathy Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 (edited) Like 88 said, for US there was only 4.375 (4.38) or 4.625 (4.63). No such option as 4.78. Edited January 12, 2007 by offroad95pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unccpathfinder Posted January 12, 2007 Author Share Posted January 12, 2007 yea i was thinking about it a lil more today...im just gonna pull the shafts and check it out to see what the diff really is...its not that hard to pull the drums apart and slap them back together as long as i dont find anything i dont like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted January 12, 2007 Share Posted January 12, 2007 Tape a stick to the drum and spin the driveshaft. Count the spins it takes to rotate the stick all the way around and you'll be close. Then you get to guess whether it went around 4.3 times or 4.6 times... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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