chunkster

AlMac, I'm in your locale and was able to find an alternative to the PermaCool's. I happened to find the Transdapt brand of oil relocation kits for my 92 Pathfinder at Lordco. http://www.tdperformance.com/TransDapt.html. I went with the single instead of the dual and mounted mine in the same location as Filthy's as well. Hope this helps, Chunk

Got it too....

Thanks for the info. Chunk

Anybody have an idea what type of metric or standard thread the grease cover bolts are on the ball joints and tie rods are? I wanted to add the zerk fittings to them so I can regrease the ball joints and steering tie rods. So far, they're still pretty tight but realized I hadn't regreased them for some time. Thanks, Chunk

Check to see if your rear wipers are engaged, especially under inttermittant mode. This will disable the rear hatch window unlock mechanism. I found this out the hard way when I tried to troubleshoot the same problem. Chunk

I have the same problem regarding the rusted area and was wondering if plate aluminum would work as well? I figured aluminum was a little easier to shape (also because I don't have much in metal fab tools with the exception of a ball peen hammer). The only drawback (if any) is the heat transferring nature of aluminum especially when the area affect is just above the exhaust on the driver's side. Makes for a seat warmer in the winter! Chunk

Sorry to bring back an old thread but.... Planning to get the Thorley's for my 92 Auto and went through the search to get familiarized with others who have went through the installation with their autos. Came across this thread and didn't see what the outcome was. Wrong part? I thought the thorley's for manual's also cleared the autos? Any ideas? Thanks, Chunk

Wow, didn't realize the price per kit. However, if you can make some for others and charge a small fee, you would recoup some of the expense. I'm sure guys on the the board would consider it. I know my buddy only used a bit of it and helped others on the local BMW club with the leftovers. It basically paid for itself. Just a thought. Chunk

I got this from a friend's fix-it guide for repairing urethane bushings for this BMW control arms. I did a little research and found this company that makes certain urethane compounds from mix. http://www.itw-devcon.com.au/driver.asp?pa...exane+urethanes The items he used were Flexane - 94 Liquid and Curing agent. Hope this helps. Chunk.

Are these the OEM shocks? Could it be the lower shock mounts attached to the LCA. I had this happen whenever I went over speed bumps and would hear a clunk - clunk. This didn't occur when driving on smooth roads but as soon at the road got rough, clunk - clunk -clunk. As it turns out, the rubber bushing in the lower shock mount was completely worn. The shock itself was fine but the bushing was totally shot. Chunk

I feel your pain. Try changing the small bypass hose without removing the TStat. That was hard. You have to have small hands and patience to try to slip that angled hose in and at the same time use narrow visegrips to keep the cinch clamps open to slide the hose on. Not fun. I just did this on the weekend... My fingers still hurt....It took me 15 minutes to type this reply with a pencil in my mouth...... Chunk

Thanks for the suggestions. I did use liquid wrench to try to remove the set I had but still ended up breakin them. The shafts that are sandwiched by the bushings were so worn! I managed to go to my local wreckers and found a whole slew of wrecked pathfinders. Only paid 8 bucks each, as opposed to 80 bucks from my stealer!! I found out that the R50's (1996-1999) use identical end links out in the back. They were also much easier to remove as well (only have to remove rear wheels and work in the wheel wells as opposed to crawling under our WD21's). As for replacement bushings, I used the Energy Polly replacement bushings that come in a pack of 8 (you only need 4 but you can split it with a buddy). They are found here, http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/endl.html. They fit a little tight but still work. Chunk

I was thinking about that as well. These things were a beech to get undone on my truck. I'm still a little sore especially when trying to loosen the bolt and shaft in such a confined space. I might try this and see if I can salvage one. BTW, when I did remove the only good drop link, the thing was badly worn. I didn't realize there was that much load put onto these links! Probably explains why the one end has a grease ball joint that connects to the roll bar.

Does anyone roughly know what it costs to replace the rear drops links on my 92 Pathy? I was trying to upgrade the worn bushings to pollies and using my super powers, I managed to snap one of the links, . I did have a look at AC's quick disconnects but I don't do a lot of off roading so I don't really need these ones. Are there are other aftermarket drop links that someone could suggest. Thanks, Chunk

I managed to install the SS tonight and boy what a difference it makes going over rough roads. Here's a follow up of the hardware you need for the OEM steering stabilizer setup. The OEM damper pin that is afixed to the frame requires 2 x M8 bolts. They must be at least 40mm in length. The threading on the damper pin where you mount one end of the shock is M8 threading as well. I used a washer and flanged M8 nut to hold the the shock end in place. On the cross rod end, I took the advice of 88 and put in a Grade 8 3/8th" x 2" bolt and nut to mount the other end of the SS. Make sure you insert the bolt from the top and not the bottom. That way, if the nut ever loosens and falls off, gravity will at least keep the bolt in place and hold the SS together for a while (but you know that won't happen if you use thread locker or a lock wash, right? ) Chunk