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MiltonWATech99

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MiltonWATech99 last won the day on February 28

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About MiltonWATech99

  • Rank
    NPORA Newbie

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Owner of a borderline illegal Pathy!
  • Place of Residence
    Milton, Washington
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    16-21
  • What do you consider yourself?
    I Go When I Can
  • Model
    SE
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Location
    Milton, Washington
  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

256 profile views
  1. A couple other things I would do while in there is clean/replace the engine air filter and clean the throttle body plate. If you notice your throttle cable is loose, tighten that up too. I noticed a small boost in performance doing all of that.
  2. Definitely worth it in my opinion. This is all preventative maintenance. It’s like doing oil changes and tune-ups. One thing you could potentially do is feed some compressed air into the spark plug hole of each cylinder, then turn the engine over with a breaker bar to hear if any air leaks out the intake or exhaust when those valves are CLOSED. I haven’t had to do it, but I would suggest buying a leak down tester for a future investment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Cylinders 3 and 5 seem to be low on compression if those are your final numbers. I would do a leak down test on those two cylinders as well as cylinder 6 to see where the blow by comes from (intake or exhaust). If you decide to go through with this project, a new thermostat, water pump, and timing belt are a must. I’d also replace the front main and cam seals while you’re in there. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Hello again everyone, I did a little research on ways to install an oil pressure gauge and came across either installing an oil filter sandwich plate, replacing the factory pressure sender with an aftermarket sensor, or installing the sensor elsewhere on the block. I heard there were three or four other threads to tap into on the VG30E block with 1/8” BSPT threads like the oil pressure sender for the instrument cluster. Anyone know where these thread holes are? Would it be easier to install a sandwich plate? Thanks!
  5. Have fun. You have to relieve tension on the torsion bars before you can drop the LCA. The anchor arm underneath the second crossmember needs to be loosened, but the locking nut on top needs to be loosened first. All 19 mm (3/4”) bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I pulled the hardware off the donor. However, that side bracket with the fasteners on it wasn’t present on the donor. It had two sets of nuts and bolts mounted to the frame without any sort of assembly on the sides. I’ll have to pull up a photo later on of what I’m talking about because once again it’s very hard to explain in words. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. That would be sweet! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. No doubt it was. It took three coats of rust neutralizer to finally eat away at the rust. Two coats of primer and base coat, and three coats of primer later and she’s ready to go on. Now for the hitch. It’s ready, but where should the guide holes be drilled for the screws to the frame? My frame might be different than the ‘92 SE (same year and model as my Pathy) I pulled it off of because I was able to access the nuts from above the bolts. On my frame, it’s closed so I can only drill into it without fitting a nut in there. It’s hard to describe in words but I’ll have to find a photo to describe the process. [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. On today’s Pathy adventure, I’m finally getting around to restoring a bumper (in decent condition other than a dent I tried patching) and a trailer hitch I pulled off a junkyard Pathfinder. Two coats of rust neutralizer and some sandpaper later, the first coats of primer are going on. Next up, gloss black. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. So after driving around a little bit longer with some hesitation from the engine, I felt a little *pop* then she started running perfect. No smoke, no anything. I don’t know what happened but that popping sound changed everything. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I haven’t had any serious issues with the fuel system until I started driving it to school regularly. It would go back and forth between running normally and misfiring on one or more cylinders after going up a big hill. Then when I let it cool down and restart it after school let’s out, it’s fine again. I also had to get towed twice a couple years back due to the fuel pump dying out before running out of gas (not even down to a quarter tank both times). Since then I’ve been too lazy to rip up the stripped screws holding the rear hatch carpet down to get to the access cover for the fuel sending unit. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Two days later and I’m having a small issue. I’ve noticed my Pathfinder shakes again on idle for a little bit until it gets up to operating temperature, and white smoke comes spewing out the tailpipe under acceleration. Sometimes it wants to stall as soon as I start it unless I give it gas. Is this normal during the “break-in” period for the new injectors? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Everything’s back together so I cranked her over and she didn’t start... It took a few tries but fuel finally got to the new injectors and she was only running with my foot on the gas. The idle was bouncing around so much and as soon as I took my foot off the gas it would die. Then it happened. I felt the engine smooth out and I took my foot off the gas to hear a clean, smooth idle. This is with a new filter, regulator, and injectors. The fuel pump is yet to go in. The fact that it’s running this smooth now has me excited for the new fuel pump to go in. [emoji41] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. I got my new set of Standard Motor Products fuel injectors and a fuel pressure regulator in the mail (c/o Rock Auto, thanks to the person that showed me the site) last night, so I decided to swap everything in while I had the day off. I also had a WIX fuel filter laying around that I swapped in. Haven’t started her up yet but I’m highly optimistic. In the next couple days, barring the motivation is there, I’ll be doing the fuel pump also. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. My mechanical fan clutch was worn to the point where there was no resistance and it would constantly turn regardless of temperature. A little bit more of a voltage draw with this fan? Yes. But I feel like the long-term benefits outweigh the cons. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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