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Posts posted by Mrelcocko
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Maybe clean your MAF sensor.
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Happy Thanksgiving from my family to yours.
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Happy Thanksgiving from my family to yours.
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Round ball
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Nice write up friend.
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Everyday driver and still going strong. 260k+
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Temperature sensor
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They are fairly easy to find in junkyards. I got one for my 97 Quey and bought an extra one.
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Yes! I'll probably do a more in-depth post in my build thread when I can but these are headlight buckets that a guy in Australia designed & 3d printed, and allow you to swap in LED sealed beam style 5x7 lights. There are cheaper options for the 5x7 lights themselves, but I went with a set of Morimoto LED's.
Nice!
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Yes! I'll probably do a more in-depth post in my build thread when I can but these are headlight buckets that a guy in Australia designed & 3d printed, and allow you to swap in LED sealed beam style 5x7 lights. There are cheaper options for the 5x7 lights themselves, but I went with a set of Morimoto LED's.
Love the headlights
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The maxima if I’m correct has 3 mounts and it ended up being the one on top of the engine. The bushings in it were toast.
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I know this is on a totally different vehicle but on my girlfriends 2000 maxima I had a similar sound that you’re describing and it ended up being an engine mount. Hopefully this might help you out some.
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So here’s a write up about inop jumpy tach and inop speedometer. Remove the 2 screws in pic 1 pull out cluster bezel. Remove 4 cluster screws to remove cluster from vehicle(not pictured)and disconnect 3 connectors plus one small connector for the door chime. Release tabs on top and bottom of cluster to remove clear plastic cover of cluster and bezel as one piece. Next remove 4 screws for Tach and 4 screws for speedometer to remove them. Be careful not to touch your fuel gauge it will not go back to the original location if accidentally touched and moved. Once you have both gauges removed use soldering iron to heat up and melt solder to fix any cracks that may have formed over the past 2 decades. I’ve circled in the pictures marked (speedo-tach)the 12 soldering points on each gauge to reheat. This fix will only work for 96-97 R50s. This is a guaranteed fix for the gauges as I have done 3 now and all three I’ve done this procedure and the problem was gone after completion.
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Update on both Speedometer and Tachometer. Working like a charm. This is definitely the fix
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Wouldn't the remanufactured distributors from Autozone or Advance have aftermarket electronics in them?
Probably so but they would be a higher quality. I’m talking more about the distributors from eBay that run between 50 to 100$ they are trash. I’m going off my experience from buying one off eBay and it not working and buying one from Advanced that worked perfectly.
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Thank you so much. I am guessing that just replacing the cam sensor/ignition module at this point would be pointless since I have all those metal pieces in there. I will try and pull out the distributor later but looks like I need the whole thing at this point? If I do replace the whole distributor, any suggestions on what to go with? I am leaning towards a new Nissan OEM unit but if anyone knows of a cheaper alternative that is reliable please chime in. Thanks again.
You can go for a remanufactured from probably AutoZone or Advance Auto. When it comes to electrical you want to go with oem for sure. Cheap aftermarket’s are a waste of money. I bought a cheapo off of eBay for 60$ and it was trash. Couldn’t get it to work from the start. Good luck friend
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Did you find any metal shavings on the inside?
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Sorry I didn’t read the rest of your post. Metal shavings Usually means your distributor bearing is going out. Remove the distributor and see if it spins freely.
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I recently had my 1999.5 Pathy quit on me twice at random times. It happened today and afterwards it would crank but not start up. So I had it towed home. I put the code reader on it and had the primary code of P0325-Knock Sensor and a pending code for P0340-Camshaft Sensor. I assume the knock sensor was triggered due to the Cam sensor code? So I took the cap and rotor off the distributor and removed the ignition control module/camshaft sensor and the little silver disk. I cleaned up the disk as it seemed to have some dirt on it within the inner circle. I also cleaned up the ignition module/cam sensor where the silver disk spins through it with electronics cleaner. I put it all back together and it fired right up and seems to run fine. No codes came back up but I haven't driven it anywhere yet. Could it just have been dirt collecting on the little silver disk and module or should I go ahead and replace the ignition module? Also, there seems to be no play in my distributor shaft. Lastly, there were a bunch of little metal fragments laying under the module inside the distributor. No idea where they came from. My Pathy has about 125K miles on it and it is the 3.3 engine. Thanks!
Did you find any metal shavings on the inside?
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Welcome to NPORA
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So here’s a write up about inop jumpy tach and inop speedometer. Remove the 2 screws in pic 1 pull out cluster bezel. Remove 4 cluster screws to remove cluster from vehicle(not pictured)and disconnect 3 connectors plus one small connector for the door chime. Release tabs on top and bottom of cluster to remove clear plastic cover of cluster and bezel as one piece. Next remove 4 screws for Tach and 4 screws for speedometer to remove them. Be careful not to touch your fuel gauge it will not go back to the original location if accidentally touched and moved. Once you have both gauges removed use soldering iron to heat up and melt solder to fix any cracks that may have formed over the past 2 decades. I’ve circled in the pictures marked (speedo-tach)the 12 soldering points on each gauge to reheat. This fix will only work for 96-97 R50s. This is a guaranteed fix for the gauges as I have done 3 now and all three I’ve done this procedure and the problem was gone after completion.
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I use a Wi-Fi Elm 327 adapter and the app I use is Dash Command. Works well with no connectivity issues.
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Thanks that’s good to know
98 Pathfinder Sunroof Drain Exit Point
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I believe it comes out close to the mud flap.