rc_cola_j

Hopefully a new PCV valve solves the problem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ordered a new PCV valve today, I wanted to get the right oil resistant breather tubing as well, so I pulled the passenger side tube from the top of the crankcase cover......this drained out onto myself and the fender. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

65 cent Exhaust leak fix.....I did this a few weeks ago but was worried the fix wouldn't work. It Held! Two quarters, a dime and a nickel JB welded to the exhaust. I know I plugged up a factory water drain built into the muffler, but there was a tinier leak lower down, so it all worked out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So, I left the vacuum line between the BPT and the EGR disconnected and plugged with a golf tee. The rough idle continued for a bit, then went away. The car drove very well and started with no issues. When I re-connected the EGR, the problems came back after about a day's normal driving. Rough idle, hard start when warm....and for some reason the oil pressure light stays on for about 5 seconds after start. When I disconnect things again....this goes away. It's the EGR valve itself? No? How is oil pressure related to this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll have a look. I just took the vacuum line off of the EGR again and hooked it up to a vacuum gauge. Its reading nothing.....maybe 1/4 to a 1/2 psi..maybe....but I don't think its pulling vacuum through the line at idle

-C? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had this similar issue a while back. A bad idle after coming to a stop, just very lumpy...almost like a miss. I replaced my EGR valve and the problem went away. Well its back now. But, it yet again goes away when I disconnect the EGR from the vacuum source.

That makes a lot of sense. so, If I had a small exhaust leak (which I now know I do) it could cause the EGR to read too high flow because there is not enough backpressure in the system? Could this cause the EGR to stay open at idle after coming off of the throttle?

So more backpressure causes more or less vacuum application to the EGR valve?

So more backpressure causes more or less vacuum application to the EGR valve? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all, I'm trying to understand the EGR system on my R50 a little better. I understand how most of the basics work, but I don't fully understand what the Back Pressure Transducer does, how it works in line with the EGR valve and the rest of the system. What does the BPT do exactly?

Okay, so. I'm baffled. The car has sat there untouched for a few days. I just used my scan software to clear the ECU and also clear the "self-learn"......it started up just fine, drives great, no white smoke. Jesus. What happened? The only things that I've noticed is a constant P0325 code now, as well, there seems to be a little rubber grommet missing from the top of injector 5. They are between the injector and the cap that holds the injector into the rail....1 and 3 have the grommet. not 5. Jebus Batman

Haven't had a chance to delve deeper yet. The injector change went smoothly aside from stripping one screw on injector 5. Just took a little work to get it out. Are you talking about spark plug cables? I switched them out a few months ago, no issues. I swapped injector 1 and 3 on the weekend, drove around for a few days with everything being fine. After I swapped #5 the other day, I made sure the wires were all hooked back up to the right cylinders. And yes, the injectors went in quite smoothly. No issues. Just curious, where is the pressure regulator located? Can't seem to see it.

I will check, this evening. Why would the distributor just go like that when not even touching it while doing injectors?

Thanks!!!

I planned on changing my 1-3-5 injectors this weekend (2-4-6 in the next few weeks), however only managed to get 1 and 3 done because of a stripped screw on number 5. Finally got this resolved today and swapped out number 5. Well, I got about 10 feet out of my driveway, CEL started flashing and I felt a lot of virbration. I stopped and checked the code, it was a P0301. Limped the vehicle back into my driveway. White smoke billowing from my tailpipe. When I checked on things, I pulled the plugs for each injector one at a time. #1, no change in idle. #3, Idle and vibration got way worse. #5, no change in idle. To me this says that #1 and #5 are mis-firing or not at all. Any one have any ideas about what I did wrong?

I tried to get at the wire on the switch of the brake pedal....holy crap is it tight in there. It was so much easier to use the tail light.

yup, just need a signal from the brake pedal switch to activate the brake controller. I ran some extra wiring to my trunk area in the case that I want to add more lighting on my roof rack or have any other additional toys in the future.....figured it would be a good idea seeing as how much of a pain it is to get the paneling off and get under the carpeting. I could theoretically just T into the brake light itself and use one of these wires I ran, couldn't I?

Thanks, never considered one would be cruise control. the wire color coding would be the same all the way back to the tail lights right?

I'm trying to upgrade my trailer wiring from a 4-pin to 7-pin with a brake controller. Everything is done except connecting the wire from the brake pedal signal to the controller. I looked under my dash at the pedal, there seems to be two switches at the top of the pedal which are triggered when the brake pedal is depressed. Why are there two? Where would you guys T into? What wire?

going over bumps, it sounds like something is loose and banging around.....I crawed under the car and this was the only thing I can find. I replaced the sway bar bushings not too long ago, the steering rack has some play in it, but not a hard stop....The cv movement, you can hear it stopping against something hard at each end of the side to side movement. **I tried this with the car on the ground and also with the front end jacked off of the ground. There is no play at full droop. only when the suspension is compressed by the weight of the vehicle.

I can crawl under my vehicle and grab on to the CV and move it back and forth between the transfer case and the wheel about 1/3 to a 1/2 inch. The left side has more play than the right.

Why does it sound so bad now though? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all, I have some side to side play in my CV's....not up and down at all....i can just slide them side to side. Is this bad? how do I fix it?

I'm gonna go check mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk