dagwoodzz Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Going well so far. rotors are off, wiped all old grease pretty good. Brakes were almost gone so took rotors to tire kingdom to have turned. Kids were with me so we walked next door to Sonic got some shakes. 45min go by not ready. He did say they had enough meat so didn't need new ones. drove to Advanced Auto picked up some pads. Now I'm back at TK again wait another 30min. 2hrs since they were dropped I ask how long. He say "TO TELL YOU THE TRUTH we are having trouble with the machine. It will be another 90min. I agreed to come back in the AM. Didn't want to wait for another excuse. I can't stand people who start the sentence saying "To Tell You The Truth". I immediately question their sincerity. Hopefully they open at 7am tommorow I can get them back and not forget how I took it all apart. I might be posting tommorow if i have any probs. BTW. I have never greased bearings in my life. If it weren't for the How-to's on this board and all the helping hands I be paying Tire Kingdom $300+ to do it for me. I should be saving close to $200 bucks. Thanks guys, who do I write the check to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 Since I'm first to respond, I guess you can write it to me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 But seriously, I am DELIGHTED to hear about another enthusiast expanding their skills, self-sufficiency, and personal satisfaction. Good on you for being willing and brave enough to try! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted July 1, 2006 Author Share Posted July 1, 2006 (edited) Got the rotors about to go to work. I want to hit all the grease fittings on the front end with a shot of grease. Do I just give it half a crank (sorry Mods didn't know you can't say c_o_c_k_) on the grease gun. Do I need to worry about overfill or damaging any grease seals? Edited July 1, 2006 by dagwoodzz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 If there's any excess inside it'll squirt out anyway. It just kinda makes a mess, but it's not bad. I give 'em a few squirts until I see the boot start to swell a little, then quit. On the bearings, take a large glob of wheel bearing grease and plop it into your open palm. Drop a bearing on top and work the grease into the bearing. Don't just smear it on the outside of the rollers and cage. It needs grease completely filling any gaps inside the cage between the rollers too. Fortunately, that's fairly easy to do with your hands and a lot of grease. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 ^ like the big dog said... If it weren't for the How-to's on this board and all the helping hands I be paying Tire Kingdom $300+ to do it for me. I should be saving close to $200 bucks. That, my friend, is what it is all about. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 On the bearings, take a large glob of wheel bearing grease and plop it into your open palm. I don't know why I have so much trouble getting the wife to help me! Anyway she's back together now. Had to socialize with some folks who invited us for dinner. All that left now is to replace the old pads. Hopefully we will get some rain tonight for the test drive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted July 2, 2006 Author Share Posted July 2, 2006 Everything is back together now. Even switched tires and rims from the flooded '92. They look good but need a wash. I've encountered a problem. The front wheels do not engage in 4wd. 4wd Light does come on but tires won't spin in mud. There is no irregular noises, but afraid to drive knowing something not quite right. I will take the hubs off the '92 to see if I can figure out what I put in backwards. If anyone knows what to look for first please holler. What is easiest way to check 4wd. I have two jack stands and a hydraulic jack. i may go get another set of jack stands and try to test 4wd on the carport. Cleaner. Again thanks for your help guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 There are only like four pieces to put in with the auto hubs...I just took off a set not too long ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 With jack stands, me thinks you could test 4wd without the motor running. Jack up the front, put it in 4wd and turn the wheels. Methinks it would engage the same as the front axle turning ? Maybe not ? If not, put the tranny in neutral and turn the front drive shaft ? Transfer case in neutral ?? Sheit, now I confused. It's got to be something with the hubs whould. As 88 said, there's not a lot in there. Could you have buggered up the install ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 The problem could have mostly been ignorance. Lifted on 4 jacks. engaged 4wd. Both passenger side wheels spun. in the front, both drives were spinning, but only one wheel. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but only one wheel can spin at a time? the wheel with least resistance is wheel that spins? I was afraid to put resistance on the spinning side. not a lot of confidence in the jacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Palmer Posted July 4, 2006 Share Posted July 4, 2006 When greasing the bearings....the shop manual says to use the special tool j36001 to remove the wheel bearing lock nut. This lets you get the hub and rotor off...is there a common tool to use or do I need this tool to get to the bearings??? 95 XE 4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted July 4, 2006 Author Share Posted July 4, 2006 I used two screwdrivers. the holes are opposite one another. just turn left, it's not tight. That is on an '87 or '92. '95 might be different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Just did my '88 this weekend and have a tip: The same allen (hex) wrench used to remove the locking hub (6mm?) was PERFECT for turning the lock ring. Slip the short end of the wrench into one of the holes and turn. Once the long arm hits the hub, additional twisting easily rotates the lock ring. Slick as you know what! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 I hammered on mine with a drift and still couldn't get the locking ring loose. Maybe it's a hit-or-miss kinda thing... A Chevy 1/2 ton wheel bearing locknut socket will work if you grind two tabs off it and bend the other two in slightly. I may be wrong about the 1/2 ton part, but other people have used that sort of tool with success, including a brake and suspension guy on the AC BBS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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