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94 won't start


Guest fishers138
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Guest fishers138

I bought a 94 pathfinder on Friday evening, everything seemed ok. I drove it 200 miles home, and then drove it another 250 miles to Conecticut, everything was still fine.

On saturday morning, the check engine light came on. I drove to the gas station, and when I came out, it wouldn't start. I noticed I had left the headlights on. I found a guy who gave me a jump, it started up no problem. The check engine light kept coming on and off randomly for the next few hours.

Later that day, I was coming out of a store, and once again, it wouldn't start. But this time I didn't leave anything on. I could not get it jumpstarted. I was able to push it down the parking lot and pop the clutch, got it started that way. Since then, the check engine light does not come on at all. I drove to auto zone, they checked the battery/alternator, they're both fine.

So I assume the starter is shot?

When I turn the key, it does nothing at all. No click, nothing. I thought starters kind of go bad over time, not just all of a sudden. Do I go ahead and pull the starter out? (I've heard that's kind of a big job). Is there anything I should check first before I assume I need a new starter? I checked the fuses that I can find, but I don't really know what else to look for.

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Check the battery terminals first, then the starter wiring, etc. The ECU won't have any error codes stored for a no-start like that.

 

Mine went out one morning all of a sudden, but it'd been slowly getting worse day by day beforehand.

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Check your fusable links (usually white/blue wires on the battery's +), clutch safety switch (right under the pedal), interlock switch (on the dash). Don't know what's up with the check engine light though. Good luck.

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Guest fishers138

The clutch safety switch(es) seem ok, they push in/out and the wiring seems to be in place. I was thinking that could be a problem. I'll check all the other stuff you guys mentioned. Are there any fuses or anything I should be checking? the batt. and alt. are fine, I'm sure of that much. The batt. is brand new and the alt. is charging. I can remove the neg. terminal and it keeps running. Also, when I hook up jumper cables it does no good. I turned the high beams on while the engine was off and left them on for like 20 minutes, they didn't dim at all. I don't think there's any alternator/battery issues. It's like something is preventing juice from getting to the starter. Unless the starter is completely shot. but it just seems odd that it would completely die all at once like that. Even if the starter was bad, wouldn't I at least hear some kind of click or something when I turn the key?

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The clutch safety switch(es) seem ok, they push in/out and the wiring seems to be in place. I was thinking that could be a problem. I'll check all the other stuff you guys mentioned. Are there any fuses or anything I should be checking? the batt. and alt. are fine, I'm sure of that much. The batt. is brand new and the alt. is charging. I can remove the neg. terminal and it keeps running. Also, when I hook up jumper cables it does no good. I turned the high beams on while the engine was off and left them on for like 20 minutes, they didn't dim at all. I don't think there's any alternator/battery issues. It's like something is preventing juice from getting to the starter. Unless the starter is completely shot. but it just seems odd that it would completely die all at once like that. Even if the starter was bad, wouldn't I at least hear some kind of click or something when I turn the key?

Starters go out like that all the time. All it takes is worn brushes and good cylinder pressure to stop a starter from turning.

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sorry if this is a dummy question, but what is the interlock switch and where exactly is it?

The interlock switch is on the bottom of the dash to the driver's right. I think. It says "Interlock" on it. It allows you to start the vehicle without pushing the clutch in, just hold down the button and turn the key. I'd make sure it's in neutral first, though...

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The interlock switch is on the bottom of the dash to the driver's right. I think. It says "Interlock" on it. It allows you to start the vehicle without pushing the clutch in, just hold down the button and turn the key. I'd make sure it's in neutral first, though...

in my 94 the button is actually on the left.

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You might not have one like my 87 does since yours is a 94. I think it bypasses the clutch switch so you can start it w/o pushing the clutch in.

What about the fusible links? I'm basing this on what I can recall about mine, but IIRC, there are seven of them. The one that killed my truck and kept it from starting was attached to the + battery terminal. There's a connector bolted to the terminal that has two or three wires attached to it. All your power (exept the thick 12v starter lead) runs through these wires. If they're loose or corroded in the connector, or they've burned through (evidence of a short in your system somewhere) you won't get power to the relays that run everything.

Click here for a very useful site that includes wiring diagrams for just about any vehicle.

Logon = fl2823

Pswd = horn

You can test the starter by jumping the solenoid terminal with the battery cable attached to it to the other terminal on the solenoid.

BE SURE THE TRANS IS IN NEUTRAL!

Use an INSULATED pair of pliers or cross a pair of screwdrivers or something (be prepared for a big spark). Turn the key to the "on" position and jump the terminals. If the starter spins, you've either got a bad solenoid or a problem with the power going to it.

Click here for a write-up on bench testing a starter.

Hopefully its just a fusible link or wiring problem but if not, the starter isn't too hard to replace. I've taken mine out a few times and I've got headers all in the way. I even had to bend up one of my wrenches to make an offset wrench that would work, yours shouldn't be too crazy hard.

Good luck.

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Guest fishers138

Found the interlock switch, it's the big button that says "interlock". :)

That's not the problem tho. =(

 

The fusable links seem ok, gonna go ahead and take the starter out tonight. can't wait.

 

$160 at autozone, not too bad.

 

Thanks for all the input guys.

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Guest fishers138

Well, it was much easier than I expected. Job took about an hour. The info on this site really helped.

Bad news is, it still won't start.

 

I give up, going to the shop tomorrow.

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Guest fishers138

Ok here's the thing.

 

I just went out and used a pair of pliers to short the contacts on the solenoid. I got a big spark, but nothing happened. What does that mean? Did they sell me another bad starter? Does that happen? I got it at Advance auto parts.

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the spark is kind of normal but you would have done well to bench test the new one.. you just never know about the "new" parts these days. you probably should have had the starter do something though.. hmm?

 

look at jj's post and follow the links. time to get the multi meter out and start fishing. good luck.

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Guest fishers138

If I get a spark, but it doesn't turn, doesn't that mean the starter is bad? If there's spark, it's getting power, right? So the wiring is ok, no? But how often does a store sell a bad part?

 

:help:

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I tried to bench test my starter before installing it (and the one I took out) I thought that just throwing 12V across the leads bypassing the solenoid would get her to spin-up. Nothin on either the old or new. I even sketched out the electronics and mechanics to see shy it SHOULD work. Never quite figured out how to bench test it but when I threw the new one in and connected it normally, it worked great. I'm still scratching my head a little on this one. Perhaps a good writeup on how to bench test a starter would be in order (but don't look at me to write it)

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my thoughts exactly. I thought my new starter was shot when I tried that and got nothing. Installed it anyway and it worked. Must be something funky going on inside. maybe an interlock of some kind in the starter itself, who knows. If I didn't have to turn my old one back in, I'd have gutted it.

 

oh... and sorry for the post hijack. Let us know what you find with your 94.

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is the selenoid integral to these starters? i've done the procedure with my ford starters (separate selenoid) and it has always worked.. the only thing that you can't tell is the amount of torque put out without putting it on a testing machine (autozone) the bendinx should kick out and spin though.

 

is the hot wire directle attached to the starter or is there a fusable link inline?

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Guest fishers138

Ok so I'm pretty sure it's the ignition switch, or maybe the starter relay.

 

I pop started it today to take it to my local guy. When I was trying to show him what it was doing, all of a sudden for no apparent reason, it started to click when I turned the key, which it wasn't doing before. The starter still wouldn't turn, but it was clicking. He said it's probably the switch, or something else that's beyond his repair.

 

On my way home, at a red light, I decided to turn the key to see what would happen. The starter turned!!!! I got a little excited. At the next red light, I decided to try it again. The starter turned again...............and continued to turn. It wouldn't stop. I pulled over, turned the key off and took it out, the starter kept running. I hopped out and disconnected the battery and it stopped. The ignition switch seems to be stuck. So I guess it's time to go to the dealer.

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somebody here just did the switch replacement.. find it, i don't think it's that hard.. it wasn't on my other vehicles. you can probably even get the switch itself at a local parts store for a fraction of the stealer's cost.

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