94 Pathy Gary Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 (edited) I was under the front end today trying to fix the pull that happens when I hit the brakes: Found 2 slide pins (both driver's side) seized, and I DO mean seized and that's where they still are: Seized in place. No amount of hammering and twisting budged those puppies... May have to take it to a pro Anyway, while I was under there I found both outer CV joint boots were completely trashed. This is gonna cost me a buck or two, I think.... Then, a little later, I was under the hood to double-check the fluids after the timing belt (and everything else) change... Something didn't look right. Aha: The A/C belt and its tensioner were GONE. History. Gonzo. No longer to be found. I wonder what's next.... Cheers! Gary P.S. Any tips for getting the $^%#%$^%$ slide pins out of the torque member (the cylinder body carrier thingy) ??? How about CV boot estimates? Edited March 20, 2006 by 94 Pathy Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 Any possibility of doing some of the repairs yourself? From what I hear CV joints aren't cheap when your on shop time. But then again, boot kits only cost about $12 a side if you want to DIY. I'm sure someone else can chime in on the slide pins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 21, 2006 Author Share Posted March 21, 2006 No problem doing the work myself, assuming I can get the ^%^$% slide pins out without wrecking the carriers (torque members) My post was more of a whine along the lines of "for everything I fix, I find 2 more things wrong... wahhhh!" and looking for people with tips on getting seized slide pins out at the same time. Speaking of doing the work myself, anybody here change CV joint boots? How many hours are we talking? Cheers! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 I swapped out an axle last weekend. Took about 2 hours, no biggie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 21, 2006 Author Share Posted March 21, 2006 I swapped out an axle last weekend. Took about 2 hours, no biggie. Thanks Bro' ... So I'm looking at about 4 hours total. Just gotta get the boots. Cheers! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 it may take you a little longer since you'll have to separate the joint, then clean it, then re-pack it... but it's not a tough job. the boots run under $20, depending where you get them. might as well check your BJs, TREs, and CL while you're in there.. same for all the bushings.. good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 21, 2006 Author Share Posted March 21, 2006 might as well check your BJs, TREs, and CL while you're in there.. same for all the bushings.. Thanks for the tip. I am going to order a complete set of TREs and BJs and swap everything out 'on spec' Never thought about the CL... Maybe I should get a quote on that too. (Oh MY!) heh heh Cheers! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 I swapped out an axle last weekend. Took about 2 hours, no biggie. Hey '88, I was pre-reading the service manual last night and the process looks pretty involved. I haven't started turning wrenches yet and I wonder if you (or anybody out there) knows if there's a way to replace the CV boots without dis-assembling the whole front end. Is it necessary to pull the hubs/knuckles and do the change off the vehicle or can I just pull off the spider gear end and work that way? Thanks, Cheers! Gary P.S. Caliper slide pins are still seized after 2 days of WD-40..... So I bought myself a new torch last night. I love it when I have excuses to buy new tools! Muwahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaaaaaa.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 PB blaster is your friend. WD40 will do NOTHING to loosen those pins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 (edited) PB blaster is your friend. WD40 will do NOTHING to loosen those pins I'll second that! And unless you can find some sort of speed boot (which don't come very highly reccomended) your going to have to take the front end apart to get at the CV's. Although I suppose if its just the outer boots that are trashed, you could do it on the truck, after removing the hubs and whatnot, but once your in that far its not to much more to undo the axle from the diff flange and take it to a decent work bench. Edited March 22, 2006 by Harbinger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 (edited) Thanks all. I decided to bite the bullet and bought a couple of tools for separating tie rods and balljoints today.... It's not ALL bad, I guess: Like I said, I love having excuses to buy new tools! PB Blaster, huh? I'll remember that for next time. Anyway, I bought all 4 boots so the whole front end will be coming apart this weekend: Wish me luck. Cheers! Gary Edited March 23, 2006 by 94 Pathy Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 It's not that bad. Take the wheel off, then the hub. Put a jack under the lower control arm and make sure it's supported so there's no tension from the torsion bar. Then unbolt your axle bolts at the diff end (put it in 4LO and any gear so it won't spin, out of 4LO to rotate the axle for the next bolt). Unbolt your upper balljoint, tip the knuckle to the side carefully and pull that axle on out. It'll go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Thanks '88 ... I'll try your "single balljoint method" before tearing the whole @!*%eroo apart. I'd like to minimize the tear-down because I'm not gonna do the BJs, TREs, and CL this time: I ran out of cash because of all the tools I "had" to buy All the steering parts will have to wait until May. Thanks again, Cheers! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 You could replace the upper BJ while the axle's out, it's the only way to get a BJ puller in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 24, 2006 Author Share Posted March 24, 2006 (edited) Wooooooooooooooooooo: We're having some fun now! After a couple of 4-year tours on Canada's east coast (which means heavily salted roads, and pretty much constant salt-spray in the air) EVERYTHING is seized on that truck. Seized, as in "it may just have well been arc-welded because it's not gonna move. Ever." Bolts, nuts, even the cotter pins..... Everything is snapping. Even the #$@* cotter pins are seized in place and wont come out: I had to clip 'em off, use a punch to knock the ends down, and then take the nuts off over top of them. Man, oh man, is this truck proving to be a piece of work! Anyway, I got one side apart and cleaned up last night. Trouble is that I can't put it all back together because one of the caliper slide pins I mentioned earlier in this thread broke off *inside* the torque member (differential carrier). Arggggggghh!!! I'm gonna give my drill press a try but if those sliders are too hard I'll be taking it to a machine shop to get things drilled out, I guess. It's a good thing that I'm getting this done now, though: The lower CV joints are so full of dirt, grit, crappe, corruption and everything else that the grease is jet-black and the joint feels just like there's gravel in it when you move it around by hand. (there probably IS gravel in it, which would explain that feeling... heh heh) I'll post a couple of pictures later this morning after I have more coffee and screw up my courage to go face The Bee-otch again. Cheers! Gary P.S. Upper CV joints were fine, grease was clean and boots were in good shape. I'm replacing them anyway, because, like the timing belt, I'm not looking forward to doing this li'l job again any time soon Edited March 24, 2006 by 94 Pathy Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Gary Posted March 24, 2006 Author Share Posted March 24, 2006 (edited) Well, if anybody wants to see what a couple of days of grief looks like, here ya go: Driver's side CV Boot Change The passenger side should go as slick as snot on a rooster's beak because the slide pins aren't seized on that side, and I learned not to piss around with cotter pins and stuff: I'm just gonna drill 'em out and save myself a few hours. She's back together and drivable but I'll obviously need a new torque member (I wanna call it a "caliper carrier" but what the heck do I know? heh) ... Anybody got one for sale? Cheers! Gary Edited March 24, 2006 by 94 Pathy Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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