jaca Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Hello everybody! Im first time on this forum here.Great site congrats GUYS. Maby somebody will find time to anser few questions. I own 95'XE 200.000km. do only lite off roading,my pathy is all stock accept oversized wheels i put on. What is normal gas milege for 3.0l engine,mine bearly makes 400km (250 mil) recently changed O2 sensor but dont see much difference,what is normal working temp maby i need change thermostat as well (too bad did not do it when did timing).?????? Is there any safety consern about rusting frame,worry about truck falling apart on HWY???? Another one ,do I need to drop exoust while changing cluch.I know big job, just want to know what parts to buy besides cluch and bearing??? Thanks for all help !!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Hello everybody! Im first time on this forum here.Great site congrats GUYS. Maby somebody will find time to anser few questions. I own 95'XE 200.000km. do only lite off roading,my pathy is all stock accept oversized wheels i put on. What is normal gas milege for 3.0l engine,mine bearly makes 400km (250 mil) recently changed O2 sensor but dont see much difference,what is normal working temp maby i need change thermostat as well (too bad did not do it when did timing).?????? Is there any safety consern about rusting frame,worry about truck falling apart on HWY???? Another one ,do I need to drop exoust while changing cluch.I know big job, just want to know what parts to buy besides cluch and bearing??? Thanks for all help !!!!! ok. well.. I will take the great site GUYS as just male/female in general..lol.... multiple posts are hard to answer.. but here goes. "normal" gas mileage is usually 17-19mpg highway and 14-16mpg town. Out of the box Pathys are not good on gas as some other suv's.... you'll learn to live with it. "Normal" working temp is 170 degrees. ONLY buy t'stats of that temperature. Might want to change your air filter, better still buy a K & N filter and also clean your MAF sensor located on the side of the air cleaner box. Yes, Pathys are notorious (especially the earlier WD21's) for the frames rusting out under the rear passenger door and under the drivers foot well. Do a thorough check of your frame. There is a pinned section in the garage for rust repair procedures for these issues. If you have stock (OEM) manifolds you will have to part the exhaust. you will need replacement collector gaskets. Also, when changing your clutch, take a CLOSE look at your flywheel (I am assuming your pathy is a 5 spd manual tranny) and have it resurfaced while you're there. Throw out & pilot bearings need to be changed. change your rear main seal!!!! to di it "right" you will need a gasket for the housing for the RMS, as you will find it easier (but not 100% essential) to remove the little aluminum housing the RMS sits in. there is a 1/2 round gasket that sits behind it. I think that's about it. i HIGHLY recommend you get back in there and do your H2o pump and t'stat..... good luck!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Actually, stock thermostat temp is 155 according to my FSM for my 88. Heh. I couldn't find a 170 for mine when I replaced it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 4, 2006 Share Posted March 4, 2006 Actually, stock thermostat temp is 155 according to my FSM for my 88. Heh. I couldn't find a 170 for mine when I replaced it. they changed to 170 in 1990.. can you imagine a 155 t'stat.. damn..... our chevys run at 160-180.. i had a 180 in da jeep too.... anyhoo.. his is a 95 pathy so he's with me on the 170 thang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 they changed to 170 in 1990.. can you imagine a 155 t'stat.. damn..... our chevys run at 160-180.. i had a 180 in da jeep too....anyhoo.. his is a 95 pathy so he's with me on the 170 thang Seems like higher temps are needed on most Chevys & Fords to get a complete burn (a cold themostat may be why that stinkin' 85 Monte Carlo failed emissions). On the other hand, the lower temps in our Nissans may be one reason high mileage engines are not uncommon. My 720 PU ran cold, but had the cleanest topend I'd ever seen on an engine with nearly 220K miles (all original) and never lost oil between changes. The downside was little heat in near 0 (F) weather - nothing a little personal anti-freeze wouldn't cure though. -alcohol- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Seems like higher temps are needed on most Chevys & Fords to get a complete burn (a cold themostat may be why that stinkin' 85 Monte Carlo failed emissions). On the other hand, the lower temps in our Nissans may be one reason high mileage engines are not uncommon. My 720 PU ran cold, but had the cleanest topend I'd ever seen on an engine with nearly 220K miles (all original) and never lost oil between changes. The downside was little heat in near 0 (F) weather - nothing a little personal anti-freeze wouldn't cure though. -alcohol- that and aluminum cools quicker nissan knew what they were doin.. lol.. but yeah.. yer right i have to agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 Yes, Pathys are notorious (especially the earlier WD21's) for the frames rusting out under the rear passenger door and under the drivers foot well. Do a thorough check of your frame. There is a pinned section in the garage for rust repair procedures for these issues. Actually the later models had more issues with the frames being easily rusted out. My 88 came from a higher winter road salt area than my 93, but my 93 has worse frame rot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 5, 2006 Share Posted March 5, 2006 True dat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Argh! Frame RUST! I just discovered my '92 has the early stages at the bottom of the crest over the axle - not rusted through yet, but I was able to make depressions in it with a hammer. So, time to take action. Let me throw this idea out and see what comes back. First pressure wash to get all the Virginia clay out left from previous owner +6 years ago - I have flushed it before, but that clay doesn't come out easily. Next weld plates over any weakened area (so far pretty standard stuff). Now here's where I need a sanity check. I was thinking of filling the frame with marine grade polyurethane foam (it's something like Great Stuff that is used in boats to help them stay afloat should they get swamped) and top it off with undercoating - maybe Herculiner. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 If you could get the foam to stick to and completely cover the inside surfaces of the frame then it would be OK. However what would probably happen is you would get tons of air pockets where water and dirt will sit in there and rust it out faster. Then a whole new issue of trying to fix it by welding plates on and not catching the foam on fire. -thnkboutit- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Ah, Greg-san is indeed wise. You will earn much from him. *sage nod* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 If you could get the foam to stick to and completely cover the inside surfaces of the frame then it would be OK. However what would probably happen is you would get tons of air pockets where water and dirt will sit in there and rust it out faster. Then a whole new issue of trying to fix it by welding plates on and not catching the foam on fire. -thnkboutit- Thanks Greg, I've thought about the same issue(s). It would be difficult to fill the void without any air pockets, but not impossible. The marine grade stuff is a two part liquid so less likely to trap air, but would still need to be done cautiously and quickly; expansion starts in under a minute after mixing. Having to weld again and catching the foam on fire was/is my main concern - the fumes would be toxic. :oops: I've read about the oil sprays, but I'd like to find something a bit longer lasting. Wouldn't it be great to be able to dip the frames? But I'm not about to completely disassemble my Pathy. The hunt is afoot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 Thanks Greg,I've thought about the same issue(s). It would be difficult to fill the void without any air pockets, but not impossible. The marine grade stuff is a two part liquid so less likely to trap air, but would still need to be done cautiously and quickly; expansion starts in under a minute after mixing. Having to weld again and catching the foam on fire was/is my main concern - the fumes would be toxic. :oops: I've read about the oil sprays, but I'd like to find something a bit longer lasting. Wouldn't it be great to be able to dip the frames? But I'm not about to completely disassemble my Pathy. The hunt is afoot... POR 15 baby. POR 15. lasts a lifetime, goes on with a brush and do whatever part or all of your frame you want. I have used it on 2 frames now, and the pathy will be #3 after her body lift. write up about it in the preoduct reviews section Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted March 7, 2006 Share Posted March 7, 2006 POR 15 baby. POR 15. lasts a lifetime, goes on with a brush and do whatever part or all of your frame you want. I have used it on 2 frames now, and the pathy will be #3 after her body lift. write up about it in the preoduct reviews section I've read about this stuff, but how did you get the brush inside those little holes. The problem is the frame rusts from the inside due to mud collecting and holding moisture and salt against the frame. The treatment needs to be poored or sprayed and I haven't seen any reference to POR 15 being applied in any means other than a brush. (Though I may still get some for the outside and floor pans.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 I've read about this stuff, but how did you get the brush inside those little holes. The problem is the frame rusts from the inside due to mud collecting and holding moisture and salt against the frame. The treatment needs to be poored or sprayed and I haven't seen any reference to POR 15 being applied in any means other than a brush. (Though I may still get some for the outside and floor pans.) you can spray it, we asked when we got our POR 15 atta car show.... they just won't 100% guarantee it if you spray cuz they feel with spray spots can be missed and if that spot rusts, they will not be held responsible for it because it was sprayed and not brushed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 you can spray it, we asked when we got our POR 15 atta car show.... they just won't 100% guarantee it if you spray cuz they feel with spray spots can be missed and if that spot rusts, they will not be held responsible for it because it was sprayed and not brushed They obviously haven't seen me paint. I can miss the broadside of a barn with a brush. :o ... that might be due to my dislike of painting and my philosophy that if I can't do it right I won't do it at all. Still not sure about trying to spray the insides with POR 15. How thin/thick is it going on? If you poured it and let it drip, would it leave the right coating or would it need to be brushed out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 They obviously haven't seen me paint. I can miss the broadside of a barn with a brush. :o ... that might be due to my dislike of painting and my philosophy that if I can't do it right I won't do it at all. Still not sure about trying to spray the insides with POR 15. How thin/thick is it going on? If you poured it and let it drip, would it leave the right coating or would it need to be brushed out? oh. it needs a brush. it is thick stuff and brushing it on assures a good thick layer of it and the 2 frames i have used it on i only did the outside.. once the outside is done.. it won't rust through. though i must admit.. CA trucks so my frames weren't rusty anyway... but still. here's there website.. check them out http://www.por15.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 oh. it needs a brush. it is thick stuff and brushing it on assures a good thick layer of it and the 2 frames i have used it on i only did the outside.. once the outside is done.. it won't rust through. though i must admit.. CA trucks so my frames weren't rusty anyway... but still. here's there website.. check them out http://www.por15.com/ Thanks once again Slick. My frame doesn't have much of any rust on the outside. The area I noticed thinning still had the original undercoat on the outside until I knocked it off, then it was all metal. From what others have said, this isn't all that unusual. Our environments are totally different. One of the pleasures I get traveling to CA is seeing so many classics in original condition. There aren't many of them left "back east" - haven't seen a 57 T-Bird in years. :sniff: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted March 8, 2006 Share Posted March 8, 2006 Thanks once again Slick.My frame doesn't have much of any rust on the outside. The area I noticed thinning still had the original undercoat on the outside until I knocked it off, then it was all metal. From what others have said, this isn't all that unusual. Our environments are totally different. One of the pleasures I get traveling to CA is seeing so many classics in original condition. There aren't many of them left "back east" - haven't seen a 57 T-Bird in years. :sniff: yeah. that's why the classic collectors come to CA to get their classic cars.. or go to the barrett~jackson auctions in AZ rust free rides Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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