VW_Factor Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 (edited) Not sure where to begin, however.. Simply this. (Edit: Forgot. 1994 XE V6) This morning my wife approaches me that the truck wont start. Go out to take a look. (Bringing the multimeter, thinking maybe the battery is dead, its winter and it may be due to be replaced). Sure enough. Wont start. Battery has plenty of juice. 12.4 volts truck off, 12.1 key on. Hit the starter, and nothing. Lights do not dim, and the meter shows no drop. Something is keeping juice from the starter. Odd thing I did notice this morning however. Trans Oil Temp light is on. (Auto tranny BTW) (Usually comes on with the key at first, but turns off after a couple seconds, or when truck is started) The light will not go out. This got me thinking. If the tranny is overheated, (tripping the sensor) would this cause the truck not to send juice to the starter? For fear of starting the engine with an overheated tranny (or tranny with no fluid?). Is this a safety feature of the truck, or am I thinking about this in the wrong fashion? Keep in mind, the truck is very well taken of, and rarely has seen any offroad service. It has never been "abused" or "rodded" on. It has run excellent the duration of our ownership (6 years now). Truck ran great last night. Never have had any issue with it (other than the battery 3 years ago took a dump). This morning, the ignition switch will not send juice to the starter. Tranny temp light is on, and will not go out, is this related? Other things I should look for? Edited November 30, 2005 by VW_Factor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gotrek Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I might not be the best to answer as I'm new to the pahtfinder world but My girlfriend had the same problem last year same time. Turned out my research found the most common problems. 1 being a bad starter relay, bad starter or corroded battery cables. You can rule out the starter since usually it would still tick. What I suggest is bang on the starter and starter solenoid with a hammer or wrench in case it is frozen (common problem here due to condensation freezing in the electricals. Tap on the starter relay for the same reason it may be stuck. Inspect very carefully or just plain replace you battery cables. Test the resistance from one end to the other Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 (edited) VW, This seems to be a common problem with pathy starters. Myself, and tow other guys in our club have had the same issue. It appears that when the starter decides to finally go, this is the exact symptom it will have. Hit the key, and nothing. Mine gave me issues for the last month or so, it would occasionally do it, if you left the key on for about 10 secs, or hit the starter with a hammer, it would fire up. Monday morning, no dice. Bought a starter, threw it in and it's fine. Same thing with the other guys and their pathy's. A couple easy ways to check the starter....unplug the solenoid wire and stick a voltmeter on the truck side. Have your wife crank it and see what it reads. It should be getting voltage, if it is and it won't start, it's the solenoid. If it's not gettting enough voltage, it won't engage the solenoid, you can wire up a simple relay to ensure its getting max. voltage (ask me how if that's the case) Is it a stick or auto? You can jumper out the clutch safety if its a stick and eliminate that too. Last case, crack the starter with a hammer (you'll need a broomstick or something to put on the solenoid) and then see if it starts. My money's on you needing a new starter. I posted a writeup a while ago on how to replace it, the first time i did it wrong, but when i put that new one in on monday, executing proper procedure, it took less than half an hour. Just my .02, for what its worth Good luck. Edited November 30, 2005 by lowrider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 Definitely check your connections at the battery, ground and starter. From there try the test (and hammer) method low rider outlined. After that, odds are it is the starter. Pull it and have it tested. I think I'm gorgetting something, I'm not sure. I don't know about the tranny light, but the stock tranny oil coolers in the radiator are prone to clogging. Most people bypass them and use an aftermarket, they tranny runs much cooler then. I don't see why the tranny would show 'overheat' first thing in the morning. Perhaps that sensor is bad ? Do you have a manual for the vehicle so you can locate it ?? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I know your battery is fine, but just for future reference. A new battey actually has 14.8 or so volts. When it gets to about 12 volts, it's about time to replace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 Well.. Verdict. First thing I did was check the cables for corrosion at the starter. They looked just fine, albeit a bit of oil and road dirt. Took the handy 1/2 drive ratchet and tapped on the starter body. No go. Back under, tapped on the solenoid (spelling?). Success! Ok. Solenoid. No problem. Checking prices on full starter assemblies come in at 110, with a 70 core. (ouch, thats from AutoZone). However, they as well, sell a solenoid for merely 40 bucks. These starting problems we experience, is it just the solenoid? Has anyone JUST replaced that and been back in business? As far as the batteries go, I have never seen a batter anywhere near 14 volts without the engine running. 14 or so volts sounds very normal while the engine is running and the alternator is supplying juice. However an automotive battery at rest usually sits just over 12 volts. Hitting it with the starter should net (in a healthy battery) a drop to maybe the mid 11 volt range. When the battery is starting to die, the drop will be low 11s or 10s. Anything below 10 volts when the starter motor is applied then battery is pretty much considered dead. This has been my experience anyway. The only vehicle Ive seen that has ever done something other than this has been my little VW Bug. (which seems to be able to crank over and start with an extremely weak battery) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VW_Factor Posted November 30, 2005 Author Share Posted November 30, 2005 BTW. Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it. Im glad that I'll be able to get my wife back on the road, and not have to worry about her getting stranded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 BTW. Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it. Im glad that I'll be able to get my wife back on the road, and not have to worry about her getting stranded. thats what we are here for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 (edited) Well.. Verdict. First thing I did was check the cables for corrosion at the starter. They looked just fine, albeit a bit of oil and road dirt. Took the handy 1/2 drive ratchet and tapped on the starter body. No go. Back under, tapped on the solenoid (spelling?). Success! Ok. Solenoid. No problem. Checking prices on full starter assemblies come in at 110, with a 70 core. (ouch, thats from AutoZone). However, they as well, sell a solenoid for merely 40 bucks. These starting problems we experience, is it just the solenoid? Has anyone JUST replaced that and been back in business? As far as the batteries go, I have never seen a batter anywhere near 14 volts without the engine running. 14 or so volts sounds very normal while the engine is running and the alternator is supplying juice. However an automotive battery at rest usually sits just over 12 volts. Hitting it with the starter should net (in a healthy battery) a drop to maybe the mid 11 volt range. When the battery is starting to die, the drop will be low 11s or 10s. Anything below 10 volts when the starter motor is applied then battery is pretty much considered dead. This has been my experience anyway. The only vehicle Ive seen that has ever done something other than this has been my little VW Bug. (which seems to be able to crank over and start with an extremely weak battery) i did replace just the solenoid in mine the first time it went and it was ok for about a month, then same thing. I think it was a dead spot in the starter. For the $110, i would just do the whole thing, you'll get a warranty and you'll be good to go. glad we could help. how to replace the starter --- http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=6407&hl= Edited November 30, 2005 by lowrider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casey.T Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I to would suggest replacing the whole thing.... Some starters come with Lifetime warrenties..... put it and the receipt in the glove box with the registration. Stock starter removal, remember to twist it so the solinoid it between 11 and 12 o'clock before you slide it forward What is funny is once you get it out, the new one will litterally fall in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 For the extra $30, I'd just replace the entire assembly... Like was said, especially if it has a good warranty... It's annoying enough to remove that you probably dont want to do it often, not to mention get stuck somewhere. I agree with your battery voltage assessment, even the VW Bug part. My old Baja converted to 12V with the stock 6V starter would start with a dead battery... Which Bug do you have ? I'm fixing up a 78 Convert... :cool2: B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelmanLS1 Posted November 30, 2005 Share Posted November 30, 2005 I have never seen a batter anywhere near 14 volts without the engine running. 14 or so volts sounds very normal while the engine is running and the alternator is supplying juice. However an automotive battery at rest usually sits just over 12 volts. Sorry, different source of information (the guy at Optima). No matter, problem fixed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now