AlaskaSun Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 Here was an interesting problem I had yesterday. I heard this metalic rubbing noise from the right rear wheel. It wasn't loud and i was about 1/2 a mile from my destination. About 50 yards from work there was a horrible CRUCH and the whole vehicle lurched really bad then just kept on going. OOOOKAYYYY HMMMM this can't be good. So I pulled the Drum off (Never done this before and was proud of myself for figuring this one out) and these two fork looking things fell to the floor. I figured out where they went to and I noticed there is an adjustment by means of a threaded rod. 1. How / Why did this fall out ?? 2. What is the proper way to adjust this ?? The brake pads are worn and I will be replacing them soon. Any advice or pitfalls I should look out for ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted October 5, 2005 Share Posted October 5, 2005 1. not adjusted properly 2. when the shoes are on and the drum is too you have to adjust them via a little hole in the back by spinning the little wheel w/ screw driver; make it almost snug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlaskaSun Posted October 6, 2005 Author Share Posted October 6, 2005 OK thank you for the help. I am going to change the pads this weekend, and do what I can to keep them from coming out again. YIKES !!! Are you supposed to adjust them periodicaly as the pads wear??? Also just a recap to make sure I got this right. New pads and put the drum back on (with or without a wheel?) adjust the fork turn barrel thing so there is a little drag or slight contact with the drum from the pads. Anything else I should concern myself with ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 i think that's basically it (see below though)(no wheel at first.. it only gets in the way - it's a bit of a hassle) also observe the little wheel's direction of turning to make it spread out before you put the drum back on.. they are self adjusting from then on.. when you are done back up and brake semi suddenly (that's how they adjust) definately use brake cleaner of some kind (non chlor. is good) don't loose any of the springs, washers, etc.. do one wheel at a time so you have a backup reference, just in case... i tend to use a pair of pliers on the whole thing.. vice grips grab nicely the large springs which ican a bit of a pita to get on and off.. but not too bad.. take your time and enjoy.. you're saving over $50... (from above: you might as well check other components while you're there... CL, TREs, BJs all 3 for looseness, CV boots for tears, if the locking hubs haven't been serviced in a while do that, same for bearings.. ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 On this topic.....has anyone ever flushed their brake system therselves? My fluid has been topped off before apprently (instead of getting new pads) so it has run down over the resovoir, and for that matter the fluid looks really bad. I flushed my CRX but that was during the steel brake line upgrade so it was necessary anyhow. I really want those lines for the truck but am dragging my feet...but anywho anybody out there that can give me a tip would be much appreciated. (like which wheel to start at) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 As far as I can tell, start from the right rear wheel, because it's the furthest from the reservoir, keep bleeding/refilling the reservoir until all the fluid in the reservoir is clean, and everything coming out of the line is clean. Then repeat for every other wheel until all the fluid at all the bleeders comes out clean. I did that on my parents Exploder, and it seemed to work quite well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted October 6, 2005 Share Posted October 6, 2005 Yeah, do the rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, front driver. Rule of thumb is farthest first. I just flushed mine 2 weeks ago, the brakes are more firm and bite harder. One warning, the reservoir splits about 1/2 way down. That means at that point, it drains 2x as fast. I sucked air in the MC twice doing the first wheel before I payed enough attention to figure out why. No problem after that. Just be patient and keep that MC topped off. Remember, if you suck air on the last wheel, you get to start over at the farthert bleed point again. Theoretically just either the front or back, but I like to be cautious with the brakes... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 (edited) Sweet, I am going to get these steel brake lines...they are on EBAY for less than $100. After the line swap and the flush...if all is not better then i will do the cross-drilled rotor swap. Thanks a bunch!! Those dudes at NissanPerformanceMag.com really sparked my interest!!! Hotfinder Edited October 7, 2005 by 98silverpathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted October 7, 2005 Share Posted October 7, 2005 Sweet, I am going to get these steel brake lines...they are on EBAY for less than $100. After the line swap and the flush...if all is not better then i will do the cross-drilled rotor swap. Thanks a bunch!! Those dudes at NissanPerformanceMag.com really sparked my interest!!! Hotfinder i'd dump fluid before you install the new lines. you'll probably loose it all anyway but i wouldn't want old/nasty fluid in my brand new lines.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02silverpathy Posted October 8, 2005 Share Posted October 8, 2005 Good point...and it really isn't that much work either! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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