SteeevO Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 My clutch i going out and and i am going to replace it this weekend but i was wondering what you recomend.. should i replace with a OEM clutch or go aftermarket? i want a better clutch. the calmini ones sounded like a good idea just a little pricey like always.. but i don't know it it's worth the extra $$ thnx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 OE is best but whatever you pocket dictates.. try shopping around.. we have a clutch dealer here in town that discounts parts quite a bit.. it's worth looking around Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 ok well it seems like when i start off quick in first gear it seems like it starts to slip then the entire pathy starts to bounce as if i forgot how to drive stick....lol.. so yeah i'm thinking my clutch also becuase i have to push it all the way to the floor to shift.... but thnx i'll take a look around... has anyone used a centerforce clutch here before? and do you like it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I replaced mine with OEM, so I'm no help with aftermarket info. The way I could tell my clutch was going was accelerating hard on an uphill onramp, when I shifted to third at 4000 rpm it didn't bite, rather the rpm slip down to 2500, then the truck surged and accelerated again... Clutch slippage. Yours almost sounds like there may be oil on it ? Just for kicks, have you tried bleeding the hydraulics and adjust the petal engagement ? I don't think that is your problem, but it couldn't hurt. How many miles on the truck, is it the original clutch ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 OE comes in a Nissan box OEM - does not ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 no i havn't tried that but how would oil get onto my clutch to make it do that??.. this sounds bad... very bad...this is the third clutch in this pathy my mom used to drive it and now for the last 2 years i have been driving/ going on adventures with it... it has 338,000 miles on it...i love this thing and i would HATE to get rid of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 IF it is oil on the clutch, the rear main seal of the motor is most likely although if you have significant leaks towards the rear of the motor (heads or valve covers probably), that could also drip down into the bell housing. The rear main seal is right behind the flywheel and is held in by a retainer. You basically just remove the retainer, pry the old seal out, put the new one in and replace the retainer. You are basically right there when replacing the clutch anyway... Can you guesstinate how many miles of this clutch ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 i'm guessing at least 100K on this clutch and i believe that seal has been replaced before and i do not have any oil leaks that i can see and it does not drip when parked and no oil is burning....just a few good signs the slippage and bouncyness only happens in first gear...i can shift to second and floor it and it takes off just fine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Hmm, ok... Depending on the type of driving, 100k miles might mean the clutch is shot... The fact that it only does it in first is a little odd... What condition are the motor/tranny mounts in ? Have you checked the bolts that hold the motor/tranny together to make sure they are tight ? Do you have slop in the trivetrain (drive shaft and rear end) ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 yeah, slipping clutch would have the effect in all gears.. something else is wrong here.. check ecu codes and diagnostics Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 (edited) i have to push it all the way to the floor to shift That wouldn't be oil, mounts or anything that would show on the ECU. Maybe a master or slave cylinder. But, since you also said "it seems like it starts to slip then the entire pathy starts to bounce" it sounds like it is in the clutch assembly (clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing). Another possibility is the main drive gear bearing (input shaft bearing), but since the clutch is easier to fix, I'll bet that's it. When you pull the trans, check for wobble in the input shaft, just to make certain. Edited August 31, 2005 by Animal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 31, 2005 Author Share Posted August 31, 2005 it only does it in first gear when i floor it...i figured today that it is the mounts so i'm going to replace the engine mounts and tranny mounts...and if that isn't the problem then....i have new mounts n e ways then i'll go from there.... but i am now thinking it's the mounts.... i'll be working on this on saturday....we'll see what happens... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Mounts may cause vibration, but not the other symptoms you mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 If you have torn mounts and the engine is lifting or torquing to 1 side, yes, it can give you a bouncy feeling especially if it is pulling the throttle... I assume Steeev0 has determined that the mounts are bad so they need replacing regardless. I'm not there to check it... Lets see if that fixes or lessens the problem; I think it very well could. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted September 4, 2005 Author Share Posted September 4, 2005 so far i have replaced one mount and the bouncyness has 95% stopped... i'll do the other side tomorrow.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 4, 2005 Share Posted September 4, 2005 Cool !! Glad it was a fairly simple fix ! Just for information, where did you get the engine mounts and for how much ? Hehehe, I love it when I'm right !! Doesn't happen often so I get all giggly when it does... Beer run, time to celebrate !! B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 My hat goes off to you. I don't know how you picked the one correct symptom out of the three in, "...starts to slip ... starts to bounce ... i have to push it all the way to the floor to shift..." Guess I was reading too much in to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 The only reason I could guess with any kind of accuracy is because I have had torn mounts and have had friends with the same. And oil on the clutch, air in the hydraulics, etc. 338k miles is a clue if the mounts haven't been replaced. It's a biach trying to trouble shoot remotely; best you can do is try to narrow it down. I get it all the time from family and friends... "The car overheating and it is smoking, what should I do ?". "Are you still driving". "Yes". "PULL THE F^$% OVER AND SHUT IT OFF !!!". "Really, I don't want to stop here". "YES, REALLY !! WANNA BUY A NEW MOTOR ?". Thats is actually a real conversation (abreviated) that I have had. Thankfully, the car survived the owners attempt to kill it. Diagnostics by web with someone who owns a wrench is nice compared to that... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 (edited) Same here with family and friends. Funny thing is, my daughter's Corolla had nearly the same symptoms as those orignially stated and the problem was in the clutch; in spite of the fact she had it replaced less than 20K prior. Broken mounts will not cause the clutch to slip or require the pedal to be depressed any more than normal; oil will not normally cause the latter either. A busted pressure plate, among a few others, can cause all of the symptoms. It is difficult to remotely diagnose problems correctly. Even more so when you have to guess which symptoms to believe. Speaking of mounts, a friend complained about her mini van ejecting the oil cap. I thought, hmm, maybe a clogged PCV? Never seen one do that, but... Later, she said there was a load thump when she put it in reverse - didn't sound related, but... So, I got a chance to look at it and had her shift from forward to reverse while I watched from under the hood. Turns out the only thing holding her engine up was the transaxle! It was literally throwing the oil cap when she put it in drive. Now, that's bad mounts. Edited September 5, 2005 by Animal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vidro Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Not trying to hijack this thread, may I ask a clutch question pertaining to my present situation Tranny is out and parts are on their way. While I'm waiting is this a good time to get the flywheel and clutch plate resurfaced? Or should I buy a new clutch plate? To the best of my knowledge there was no clutch problem with this vehicle just the bearings in the tranny went bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Kick Ass Matt Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 I am also in the market of a new clutch as well, I've herad OEM, Centerforce, clutch masters... I've used ACT in the past in my race car and like it a lot, any thoughts on ACT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaritimeMan Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Vidro, my recomendation is to do both and save yourself the time. If you are going to get a new clutch, if definately should get the flywheel resurfaced. It really a process of elimination. By servicing those parts, you will have piece of mind, and if you don't service them, just think how much fun it will be to pull all that stuff off again to do it later. Do it now while it's apart. But thats my opinion. Enjoy. M.M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted September 5, 2005 Author Share Posted September 5, 2005 yeah the mounts are made by anchor and i got them for about $80 a piece out here in motclair, CA at a place called graves auo parts they ordered them and had them next day.... it's chaeper there than from the stealership..they wanted like $120 for each one thnx for the engine mount advise..good call.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 While I'm waiting is this a good time to get the flywheel and clutch plate resurfaced?Or should I buy a new clutch plate? I recommend replacing the clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing and having the flywheel resurfaced/getting a remanufactured one (same thing really). That is unless the clutch is new, as in 20-40K miles. You dont want to have to pull the tranny again any time soon, right ? When I do clutch work, I just replace everything, pressure plate may be weak or TO bearing tired... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted September 5, 2005 Share Posted September 5, 2005 Don't forget a new pilot bushing! Also, if it were me, I'd replace the rear main seal while the tranny is out - next month or two it will be me (no problems, but figured I should some preventive maintenace closing in on 150K with original parts). I'd avoid off brand clutch and presure plates. Some may be good, but others may go less than 50K and there is no way I know of to tell. Most major brands offer a guarantee (even though this won't cover the labor) they have their reputation to protect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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