FLApathy Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 (edited) ok so i want to put some JGC springs on but im worried about just cranking the T-bars up, is that even the way to go (just cranking the T-bars), i dont want to get into replacing the UCAs unless its cheap, and yes ive read the tech section word for word but i want to get some advice and what not, and will this help out wheeling not just the lift but the suspension aspect, and one more thing, can cranking the T-bars all the way destroy them if you hit something to hard 94 xe 4 dr with tire carrier Edited August 3, 2005 by FLApathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 cranking the Tbars is the ONLY way to lift the front end, even with new UCA's, you have to crank em up. And for some decent UCA's for about 120 bucks, you can get em at roughcountry.com. they only make em for the hardbody, but they are the same as the pathy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 you can get UCA for like 300 or so.. that's not bad at all... if you're serious about offroading i'd get the ucas.. but ask precise1 he is all jacked up how you describe... me thinks if the Ts are cranked to the til you're asking for trouble.. just my 2c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kn0xville Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 if your crankin em up on stock UCAs, your only gonna get about an inch and a half at most, with the after market UCA's, youll get about 3 and a half outta them. the only real strain your puttin on is the outter tie rod ends. so if your gonna whel your pathy, or put some bigger tires, be prepared to replace the tre's, and the CL and most likely your idler arm, and maybe some lower profile bumpstops. its really a small price to pay to make it all look good and safe. i replaced my CL, tre's, IA, upper BJ's, bumpstops, and UCA's all for under 500 bucks. and a few bucks for the alignment afterwards. and the only prob you'll most likey have with the JGC coils in the rear is they cant handle a real heavy load without sagging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted August 3, 2005 Author Share Posted August 3, 2005 so whats better a body lift or JGC and T-bars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 so whats better a body lift or JGC and T-bars the latter is easier to do.. probably more effective also.. do it right (ucas+armor) if you're serious or you'll spend lots of money to fix stuff after each outing.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 I did the JGCC's and cranked the t-bars. I left a 1" gap between teh bump stops for the t-bars.. and I got almost 4" of lift from the JGC's! When I can afford it.. I will be beefing up the front end "properly" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 I did the JGCC's and cranked the t-bars. I left a 1" gap between teh bump stops for the t-bars Ditto, I gained an easy 2"+. That helps some with ground clearance (other than axle) flex and stiffer suspension (you cant wheel if you wallow like a pig). I haven't done any real wheeling, but I don't forsee any issues, and many people run like that without complaints. To me it's just a cheap, easy suspension lift/stiffener. Body lift only raises the body off of the frame. It may help with flex, but your suspension will still be mush. Most effective for mud bogging and water crossings as it will help prevent flooding the cab. May save rocker panel damaage, etc Both raise the CG so it will handle differently. Remember, it's a truck so drive it like one... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted August 3, 2005 Author Share Posted August 3, 2005 so heck i could do both, i want to make my suspension better but i cant afford a suspension lift. My dad and I put better shocks on his truck and they seam to work fine, and i do want GC and water clearnce, down here in the "dirty south" theres nothing but water from the hurricanes, i mean everywhere you go in the woods its water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted August 3, 2005 Share Posted August 3, 2005 Sounds like a body lift is appropriate then also. You may want to buy or make a snorkel also... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 4, 2005 Share Posted August 4, 2005 Yes. I agree with B. If you are running mainly mud n water.. snorkel is good insurance, move the ECU to the glove box (it is on floor under PS seat) and pop a lil 2 or 3" body lift on fer good measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLApathy Posted August 4, 2005 Author Share Posted August 4, 2005 yeah, just what i wanted to here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 have n e of you cut open a shock from your a-arms hitting it?? a few weeks ago i went out and diddn't realized that a bumpstop was gone and ...well...ooops... but since then i have redone all my bushings and new bumpstops.. but before i did the a-arm bushings the a-arm was really close to the shock...like less than a 1/8 " and my torsions wern't cranked all that much either..maybe an extra turn or 2 from what i have in my picture w/ me in it standing next to the pathy. it's all better now but just wondering if i was the only one to ever do this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 Mine did the same thing with the stock A-arms. I don't know if it would matter or not, but I also had a worn out center link at the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 and for anyone looking to do the JGC coil install... for some lucky reason.. I got some wicked cool JGC coils.. that gave me more lift than seems anyone else gained ..... and so far I am the only one who got this style of coil.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 Those are aftermarket or lift progressive-rate coils. They're not stock JGC coils. Stock ones have coils the same distance apart the whole way up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 mm.. I gathered that.. but they work really well.. and I asked for the coils that you stated in your JGC coil thread..but I asked fer 94-97 coils.. that's what they gave me.. hehehe.. must be a "California thang".. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted August 9, 2005 Share Posted August 9, 2005 have n e of you cut open a shock from your a-arms hitting it? Yep. Mine did that after I put on the Calmini UCAs. I had Monroe Sensatracs w/ a huge top cover. I got rid of those POS's for some Calmini shocks with a rubber dust boot. Even those are starting to show some wear. You could cut that big metal dust boot off altogether. FLApathy- In the process of doing my BL, I stripped 2 nuts secured inside the cab. After drilling access holes in the floor to fix those, I realized I could have probably made a homemade lift kit for like $20. The only thing special in those kits are specific threaded bolts and the blocks. You could bypass the the special bolts by just drilling out the body nuts and using any hardened bolts/nuts. I plan on getting some body plugs to fill the 1" access holes I created, but for now, the carpet covers them. You could avoid using the kit lift blocks by making some if you have access to a macine shop, or I think a 2-3" stack of wide washers would create the same affect as the poly blocks. Another possible route for a budgeteer would be to just buy the blocks. I did find a replacement block for one I lost at a local 4x4 shop for $5. If you're handy and a little creative you could do both lifts for pretty cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now