Horn and Cruise Control not working

[PamPoovey]

02 manual Pathy, owned since 2016.  Horn hasn't worked since maybe Nov? Sorry, i live in area where you can go months without using a horn, so I do not know when the problem began. I mostly have a short commute, so Nov is the first I noticed cruise wasn't working.

 

I can turn the cruise control on and that is it. 

Horn isn't working at the same time. 

 

When I had the factory radio replaced, I did not pay for the adapter so the steering wheels due to budget restrictions at the time. 

 

I have swapped relays, put in new fuses (easiest fix), replaced the clock spring. What else are both Cruise and Horn interwind with? I checked to make sure the tabs on the clutch and gas pedals for the ASCD switch weren't broken. The ASCD click when I push on them. I don't see any issues with the horns themselves (but I didn't remove them. If I have more time tomorrow, I can try and figure out how to check if there is juice flow). 

 

It's obvious to me whatever is wrong, they are connected. So what else can I check that uses cruise and horn or do you think if there is a malfunction with one, it takes out the other, like the old style Christmas lights where the hole thing doesn't work until you find the dead lightbulb?

 

Thanks in advance!!! 

[Slartibartfast]

I had a look at the circuit diagram on EL-251, here. If we assume that the two faults have a common cause (not guaranteed, but does seem likely), then it's gotta be between the battery and the cruise switch on the steering wheel, because that's the only section where the cruise and horn circuits overlap. 

 

The clockspring has a wire in it that's shared between everything that's not working (horn and all cruise buttons except "main," which I assume is the one that works). Naturally you've already replaced that. The coil in the relay could also break both circuits if it was bad, but you've replaced that too. That leaves the switches/wiring inside the steering wheel, or the wiring between the battery and the wheel. 

 

I would start by testing fuse #52, 7.5A, which runs one of the horns (for some reason the two horns are fused separately), the horn relay (which means this one fuse will still take out both horns if it's bad), and also those three cruise buttons. Check with a test light (with the other end grounded) that you have power at both legs of the fuse. One leg means it's dead, neither means there's an issue between the fuse and the battery, both means it's OK.

 

If there's power at the fuse, then it's a question of what you want to tear apart first. I'd be tempted to tear the wheel apart first and test that it's getting power at pin 1 (pin 12 of the clockspring), as labelled on EL-253. (I'd test this with a meter, because the resistance of the relay coil might be too much to work an incandescent test light.) If it's got power, I'd test the switch next. If it doesn't, then there's a break between the fuse and the switch. In that case I'd check the other side of the clockspring (to verify the clockspring's good), the connector on the light green/black wire shown on EL-253 (no idea if that connector is just that one wire, or a bunch of them, but it would be a convenient test point if you can find it--or a possible source of the problem if it's loose/damaged), and the horn relay connector. Once you know which two points you lose power between, you know what part of the harness to investigate. Hopefully it's not the harness.

 

That's all I've got. Good luck with it and let us know when you figure it out!

 

[PamPoovey]

Thank you so much for taking the time to not only research, but explain it in a way that isn't complicated! 

 

I'll report back once I am able to put your words into action. I just wanted you to know your kindness is greatly appreciated.