1997 R50 Engine Removal - Lifting Point??

[Oleschool]

I noticed that there are no places to attach a chain to lift this engine out. What is everyone else using to lift this engine out? I've used a chain and a bolt before but thought I'd reach out before I do this.

[Slartibartfast]

When I pulled the engine out of my donor, I knotted old seatbelts around the engine mounts and ran those up to the load leveler. Found out later both mounts were broken, not sure if I did that or if they were like that before I started. Luckily they held. 

 

I was pulling the engine and trans together, so having both straps tied pretty low on the engine wasn't an issue. If you're pulling just the engine, you might want to find somewhere to bolt a plate. The back of the heads have a few threaded holes IIRC.

[jlduthie]

Late reply, but there are threaded holes in the block for this purpose. The factory sells lift points that bolt into these holes or you can do what i did when I installed my SFD and run bolts - I believe they’re M10 - through the chain links and use a spreader to avoid crushing the valve covers and other top end bits:

 

The lift point locations are in the FSM

but I can grab a pic when I get home from work tonight if you still need it. 

Edited June 30, 2023 by jlduthie

[Slartibartfast]

I'd like to see that picture too, might make my VG33 swap easier when I get around to it.

 

I have to ask, though--why is there a maple syrup jug on your strut tower?

[jlduthie]

Aha. Maple syrup jugs a) was at hand and b) had the perfect handle to use coathanger to hang and catch brake fluid when I took the soft lines off. It’s well-labelled with skull and crossbones and has since found a new home. 
 

Here’s the manual page showing the location of slinger mounts:

 

The front location is just above the alternator mount and below valve covers:

The rear is on driver side and requires removal of a bunch of hoses for any kind of reasonable access. Because I had to patch my strut tower I also had the power steering reservoir removed which I think helped because I could reach from the front. Presumably if the engine is going to be moved at all most of this stuff will be disconnected anyways. I couldn’t reach down with the phone to grab a better photo I’m afraid but it’s down here rearward from the dipstick:

 

 

 

[Slartibartfast]

And here I thought you got thirsty! I hadn't thought about the finger hole for hanging it on stuff, that's a good idea. Might have to snag one of those out of the recycling. 

 

Did some digging, found some PNs. Looks like all VGs use are 10005-12G01 for the front. Up to '97 uses 10006-12G04 for the rear, '96-'03 uses 10006-0W060 instead. Out of stock most places, but looks easy enough to replicate with some scrap metal and a few minutes with the welder.