CV Boots (the stretch over cone kind)

[Pathypop]

My son's '03 Pathfinder with a 2" lift has a fully torn inner boot on the pass side. The axle is a reman from Napa that we installed around 3 years ago, but the boot started tearing during the first year. Even the 2" lift seems to be rough on OEM boots. I think that taking the actual CV joint apart is hard, right? Does anyone have experience with the Flexx Boot (FB3001k) universal fit that comes with the install cone?  I'm also thinking these type of boots might last longer since they are made of a material that is intended to stretch more than OEM styles. TIA.

 

PS - haven't posted here for awhile because my son's PF has been such a good truck.  He has put 55k miles on it in 5 years and he's probably spent less than $1k on parts (tires excluded) with us doing all the labor. He just bought his 2nd set of tires for it.  After we replaced the rear suspension most else has been minor stuff.  Mileage is not so good, it leaks a little from the rms, but now at ~170k miles with no CEL's there's no complaints.

Edited April 6, 2021 by Pathypop
correction: $1k spent on parts, not $2k.

[R50JR]

My son's '03 Pathfinder with a 2" lift has a fully torn inner boot on the pass side. The axle is a reman from Napa that we installed around 3 years ago, but the boot started tearing during the first year. Even the 2" lift seems to be rough on OEM boots. I think that taking the actual CV joint apart is hard, right? Does anyone have experience with the Flexx Boot (FB3001k) universal fit that comes with the install cone?  I'm also thinking these type of boots might last longer since they are made of a material that is intended to stretch more than OEM styles. TIA.
 
PS - haven't posted here for awhile because my son's PF has been such a good truck.  He has put 55k miles on it in 5 years and he's probably spent less than $2k on parts (tires excluded) with us doing all the labor. He just bought his 2nd set of tires for it.  After we replaced the rear suspension most else has been minor stuff.  Mileage is not so good, it leaks a little from the rms, but now at ~170k miles with no CEL's there's no complaints.

Are you in san diego?


Sent from my Pathfinder

[Pathypop]

1 hour ago, R50JR said:

Are you in san diego?
yup, in North County

 

[XPLORx4]

I believe the inner joint is easier to service than the outer. Once you remove the CV axle, you'll see that the inner joint has a cap to seal the grease in. You can pop it off by tapping on the cup to get the axle and roller bearings to press against the seal. Once the cap is off and you clean the grease out, there's a snap ring holding the bearings on the axle shaft. Remove that, and the inner boot can be removed and reinstalled. It'll be very messy, so wear some decent nitrile gloves and have plenty of shop rags to wipe up the grease. Pro tip: to remove the CV axle, unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe.  A 1/2" impact driver makes short work of it;  it's way easier than unbolting the strut from the knuckle.

[R50JR]

I believe the inner joint is easier to service than the outer. Once you remove the CV axle, you'll see that the inner joint has a cap to seal the grease in. You can pop it off by tapping on the cup to get the axle and roller bearings to press against the seal. Once the cap is off and you clean the grease out, there's a snap ring holding the bearings on the axle shaft. Remove that, and the inner boot can be removed and reinstalled. It'll be very messy, so wear some decent nitrile gloves and have plenty of shop rags to wipe up the grease. Pro tip: to remove the CV axle, unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe.  A 1/2" impact driver makes short work of it;  it's way easier than unbolting the strut from the knuckle.

Once the inner joint is removed both boots can be serviced.


Sent from my Pathfinder

[Pathypop]

19 hours ago, XPLORx4 said:

I believe the inner joint is easier to service than the outer. Once you remove the CV axle, you'll see that the inner joint has a cap to seal the grease in. You can pop it off by tapping on the cup to get the axle and roller bearings to press against the seal. Once the cap is off and you clean the grease out, there's a snap ring holding the bearings on the axle shaft. Remove that, and the inner boot can be removed and reinstalled. It'll be very messy, so wear some decent nitrile gloves and have plenty of shop rags to wipe up the grease. Pro tip: to remove the CV axle, unbolt the lower control arm from the subframe.  A 1/2" impact driver makes short work of it;  it's way easier than unbolting the strut from the knuckle.

Thanks much! This is what I'll likely do.  Not sure if there is a brand of boot that handles the angle better but that's what I'll look for next.