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Rumble and Shake in 4WD?


QuasarDecimari
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Yeah, that one might suck. Can probably still drop separately from the bracket pretty easily, just bring down the passenger side first.

However, I'm trying to recall if those bottom holes have through-holes on the back. The top mounts don't. It might be tough getting deep enough threads in there with a regular tap.

 

And what's with that hole? Bolt defect...looks too old for a recent drilling.

Edited by hawairish
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Sucks, but might not be as bad as it seems. I think you said it was crossthreaded with an impact, still not the end of the world. Get the bracket out of the way, carefully apply some heat to the surrounding area (aluminium heats and cools quicker than the steel bolt), even a small propane plumbing torch might work (I have a little map/oxy torch for small jobs like this to give pinpoint heat in tight places), get a good bite with vice grips and back that sucker out. Remember, lefty loosey! Lol. Then I'd find a tight fitting drill bit to GENTLY ream the hole clean and rethread it. A little bit of well-placed heat can go a long way.

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And what's with that hole? Bolt defect...looks too old for a recent drilling.

That’s what I was thinking. There’s like a small hole as if there were some sort of air bubble in the bolt there. Doesn’t go very deep. Plus it’s not in the center.

 

 

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Maybe you can weld the inside of a nut onto it?

This is what I’m going to try to do. When I get it off, I should have at least a quarter inch of the bolt to mess around with, and hopefully get a nut onto it. Heat it up, and twist very slowly.

 

 

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Sucks, but might not be as bad as it seems. I think you said it was crossthreaded with an impact, still not the end of the world. Get the bracket out of the way, carefully apply some heat to the surrounding area (aluminium heats and cools quicker than the steel bolt), even a small propane plumbing torch might work (I have a little map/oxy torch for small jobs like this to give pinpoint heat in tight places), get a good bite with vice grips and back that sucker out. Remember, lefty loosey! Lol. Then I'd find a tight fitting drill bit to GENTLY ream the hole clean and rethread it. A little bit of well-placed heat can go a long way.

Definitely. Drilling and tapping is my last resort, going to try to weld a nut onto the bolt and do as you said to remove it. As long as the bolt cross-threaded clean into the mount, it should be possible to unscrew it with the right amount of heat and torque.

 

 

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I got the Nolathane bushings in. They wont work. The OD is too big and the casting quality is poor. One unit had a center bore that was considerably off center and would make install difficult.

 

I was going to machine them down but after a lot of research inspired by some resources shared with me by Hawairish I decided to CNC machine a mold for bushings that I can use to cast custom units with zinc plated steel sleeves. Automotive specific formulas are readily available as well as general industrial grade polyurethane. The softest compounds come in around 60D on the hardness scale, which is still stiffer than OEM rubber but wont transfer vibrations like some of the stiffer performance oriented units in the 80D+ range. Should have a set cast within the week.

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I ordered the Nissan replacement mounts, and will be replacing mine in the near future. I did have an idea though. What about taking the polyurethane (3M window weld or equivalent) and just squeezing it into the voids in the rubber bushing? If you use plastic wrap, or something that will release from the PU after it has set, you could fill the voids flush to the edge of the steel mount, which would give you a much stiffer bushing, and repair your old bushings without having to press out or cut out the old ones and figure out a mold for replacements.

 

A lot of people do this with transmission mounts, which works pretty well apparently.

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What about taking the polyurethane (3M window weld or equivalent) and just squeezing it into the voids in the rubber bushing? If you use plastic wrap, or something that will release from the PU after it has set, you could fill the voids flush to the edge of the steel mount, which would give you a much stiffer bushing, and repair your old bushings without having to press out or cut out the old ones and figure out a mold for replacements.

 

A lot of people do this with transmission mounts, which works pretty well apparently.

I have never heard of this being done, but it does make sense. I would assume the rubber on the original bushing would have to be in rather decent condition, since the new PU would just stick to it, and not exactly weld together in a sense. I would be a bit more inclined to do it with new bushings to see if they last longer that way.

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I was thinking about that as well. I think it'd be a reasonable approach, but yes, having better rubber to start with might help. But, I think there's also enough void for the poly to encapsulate the rubber entirely, so the quality of the rubber might not have as much impact.

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I would assume the rubber on the original bushing would have to be in rather decent condition, since the new PU would just stick to it, and not exactly weld together in a sense. I would be a bit more inclined to do it with new bushings to see if they last longer that way.

 

It depends. Are the voids in the bushing actually open to both sides, i.e. are they a hole? If they are, then I would think whether or not the PU sticks extremely well to the rubber it wouldn't really matter as the new material would be connected on both sides of the sleeve, resulting in a plug of sorts.

 

If using the old bushings, you could always cut the thinnest sections of the rubber to make them a hole I suppose. I am thinking I might try this with my old mounts after I replace them, just as an experiment.

 

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I vaguely remember someone doing this with their rear trailing arm bushings and claimed good results. I'd be far more inclined to try the method on something like the diff mounts or sway bars, as opposed to a much more loaded (and important) area like the trailing arms.

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If using the old bushings, you could always cut the thinnest sections of the rubber to make them a hole I suppose. I am thinking I might try this with my old mounts after I replace them, just as an experiment.

 

Y’all are making me wish I waited to order the new bushings cause someone’s going to find a better solution haha. Not looking forward to pressing those suckers out.

 

 

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It would be much easier to burn out the rubber with a torch and then sawzall the sleeve. I spent more time setting up the mount to use the shop press than it would have been to torch it and cut the sleeve.

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It would be much easier to burn out the rubber with a torch and then sawzall the sleeve. I spent more time setting up the mount to use the shop press than it would have been to torch it and cut the sleeve.

Not a bad idea actually. I was going to try and use a control arm bushing tool that we use at work. It’s basically like a massive C-Clamp with various adapters that fit the different diameters of bushings, ranging from small to several inches.

I might do that, just torch them and cut them out, then just press the new ones in. The new ones go in easier than the old came out I assume?

 

 

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Fire and sawzall has been my approach on both my trucks. I also drill a bunch of holes in the rubber to break it up a little to help with the shearing process. Only precaution is try to get the sawzall blade flat on the outer shell to avoid cutting into the bracket. You can often chisel/punch the sleeve out before having to completely cut through the shell, too.

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Fire and sawzall has been my approach on both my trucks. I also drill a bunch of holes in the rubber to break it up a little to help with the shearing process. Only precaution is try to get the sawzall blade flat on the outer shell to avoid cutting into the bracket. You can often chisel/punch the sleeve out before having to completely cut through the shell, too.

Will do. I’m expecting to see the bushings at my doorstep any day now.

 

 

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Look what just arrived. Does anyone need measurements off the brand new ones? Also, looks like these don’t actually have holes that go all the way through them. They’re solid about 10mm in.242f04b8e40e7b4af1fbcafdf2f5fa68.jpg

 

d6505d72bd38717ba57c4b67e004fda0.jpg

Edited by QuasarDecimari
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Are those the Febest NAB-332? That design might actually simplify things if you were to add PU. But...being new and with limited movement, hopefully theyll last several years as-is.

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Are those the Febest NAB-332? That design might actually simplify things if you were to add PU. But...being new and with limited movement, hopefully theyll last several years as-is.

They sure are. One year warranty too, but they seem rather solid.

 

 

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Should be around 48mm, but curious. You have a set of calipers? Mine measured under just under 48mm but they probably distorted during removal so its hard to say.

40mm outer sleeve length.

50mm total length.

48mm OD.

43mm ID.

23mm inner sleeve OD.

13mm inner sleeve ID.

 

 

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