Just another wobble thread...

[drewp29]

Hey, what's up dudes and dudettes. It's been awhile since I have been on the forums. My time has been consumed with my '95 240sx build which is about to receive the RB25det Neo treatment.

 

So here's my predicament. I bought my Pathy in 2011. Shortly after purchasing I installed the AC lift with 1" spacer up front and threw on some 32s. There has been a front end vibration present since before I installed the lift, and the new components didn't change that. It started as a speed dependent wha wha wha wha sound between 50-65 mph. It didn't change with the new rims and tires, if anything it got worse, and was now present through the entire speed range

 

I determined it was most likely a wheel bearing. I had some slight play top and bottom with the truck in the air, so I repacked both sides, inner and outer. The wobble was perhaps a little better, but still present. I drove it like this for the next few years, almost 40k miles without any change really. Tire rotations, balancing, etc did not change it. So about a week or so ago I decided it was time for new tires. So I had new shoes put on. Thinking this might change the wobble, I was disappointed as it is still there. Less than it was, but the heavier tires might damp it a little.

 

I had bought new inner/outer bearings for the front a couple years back and decided it was time to at least replace the passenger side since that seems to be where the wobble is originating. I replaced both the inner and outer bearings and races last night. I drove it after replacement and it appears to be better, but not entirely gone. I also replaced my brake pads yesterday - the truck stops so much better it is insane, and the previous pads had at least a 3rd life left. They must have been super crappy brake pads.

 

The odd aspect of the wobble is it feels like it is something out of round. When driving on super smooth pavement at very low speed, like 5mph, I can actually feel the passenger side of the truck lift up and down. It is subtle, and not noticeable at speeds greater the 10mph, but is definitely there.

 

Things I have done to try to eliminate said wobble or just as maintenance:

 

Had beginnings of death wobble: replaced Upper/Lower trailing arms - no more death wobble

 

Replaced wheel bearings in passenger side, driver side is still tight from earlier repack

 

Sway bar bushings

 

New tires, balanced, rotated

 

Things I have waiting to be put on:

 

Steering Rack Bushings and Rebuilt Steering Rack with new outer tie rod ends

- The rack definitely needs replaced, but I doubt it would cause this.

 

Has anyone had an issue like this before? The up and down travel is what is so odd, considering I have eliminated the tires, rims, bearings from the equation. I have manual hubs, so I run in 2WD almost all the time.

 

It's not the worst thing in the world, and obviously tolerable, but it is baffling since I thought for sure I'd get rid of it with the new bearings and races. But alas, still present.

 

 

 

 

[hawairish]

Welcome back! Would love to hear/see more about the 240SX sometime. We swapped an RB20DETT into my brother's 90 Coupe, and that was probably the most fun I've ever had in a car. Was planning a KA24DET for my 89 Hatchback, but that didn't happen.

 

Anyway...you're definitely facing a tough issue. Only thing left to ask about are:

1. Do you run an wheel spacers?

2. Have you check the runout on the wheel hubs?

3. Have you check the runout on the rear driveshaft?

4. Is the rear driveshaft balanced?

[jyeager]

Hey, what's up dudes and dudettes. It's been awhile since I have been on the forums. My time has been consumed with my '95 240sx build which is about to receive the RB25det Neo treatment.

 

So here's my predicament. I bought my Pathy in 2011. Shortly after purchasing I installed the AC lift with 1" spacer up front and threw on some 32s. There has been a front end vibration present since before I installed the lift, and the new components didn't change that. It started as a speed dependent wha wha wha wha sound between 50-65 mph. It didn't change with the new rims and tires, if anything it got worse, and was now present through the entire speed range

 

I determined it was most likely a wheel bearing. I had some slight play top and bottom with the truck in the air, so I repacked both sides, inner and outer. The wobble was perhaps a little better, but still present. I drove it like this for the next few years, almost 40k miles without any change really. Tire rotations, balancing, etc did not change it. So about a week or so ago I decided it was time for new tires. So I had new shoes put on. Thinking this might change the wobble, I was disappointed as it is still there. Less than it was, but the heavier tires might damp it a little.

 

I had bought new inner/outer bearings for the front a couple years back and decided it was time to at least replace the passenger side since that seems to be where the wobble is originating. I replaced both the inner and outer bearings and races last night. I drove it after replacement and it appears to be better, but not entirely gone. I also replaced my brake pads yesterday - the truck stops so much better it is insane, and the previous pads had at least a 3rd life left. They must have been super crappy brake pads.

 

The odd aspect of the wobble is it feels like it is something out of round. When driving on super smooth pavement at very low speed, like 5mph, I can actually feel the passenger side of the truck lift up and down. It is subtle, and not noticeable at speeds greater the 10mph, but is definitely there.

 

Things I have done to try to eliminate said wobble or just as maintenance:

 

Had beginnings of death wobble: replaced Upper/Lower trailing arms - no more death wobble

 

Replaced wheel bearings in passenger side, driver side is still tight from earlier repack

 

Sway bar bushings

 

New tires, balanced, rotated

 

Things I have waiting to be put on:

 

Steering Rack Bushings and Rebuilt Steering Rack with new outer tie rod ends

- The rack definitely needs replaced, but I doubt it would cause this.

 

Has anyone had an issue like this before? The up and down travel is what is so odd, considering I have eliminated the tires, rims, bearings from the equation. I have manual hubs, so I run in 2WD almost all the time.

 

It's not the worst thing in the world, and obviously tolerable, but it is baffling since I thought for sure I'd get rid of it with the new bearings and races. But alas, still present.

 

 

 

 

you know what? I have the same problem, right down to the vehicle seeming to go up and down around 5-10mph.

For me it began when I installed new rims and tires.

 

I have had them rebalanced and rotated numerous times.

What I haven't done yet is checked for roundness of the tires/rims. I suspect I was sold a defective tire or rim.

 

Definitely check for run out at the rim and check the roundness of the tire.

 

You will have to lift it and turn it by hand..it will help to have a dial gauge and magnetic base...

[drewp29]

you know what? I have the same problem, right down to the vehicle seeming to go up and down around 5-10mph.

For me it began when I installed new rims and tires.

 

I have had them rebalanced and rotated numerous times.

What I haven't done yet is checked for roundness of the tires/rims. I suspect I was sold a defective tire or rim.

 

Definitely check for run out at the rim and check the roundness of the tire.

 

You will have to lift it and turn it by hand..it will help to have a dial gauge and magnetic base...

 

I suspect that as well, though it is odd that it does not seem to follow one particular rim. The initial speed dependent vibration could have been wheel bearing or balance on the previous set of rims/tires, and the issue now may be the new set of rims since the bearing issue has been taken care of. Or it could be the hubs are out of round, forcing the bearings to be out of round when pressing the races in.

 

I did notice this morning on the way to work that it is MUCH less pronounced than before the bearing replacement.

 

I am also thinking that my issue with what I thought was the CV binding after the lift may not have been that at all, but may have been this same issue all along, and was just louder or more pronounced when driving the front axles.

 

Welcome back! Would love to hear/see more about the 240SX sometime. We swapped an RB20DETT into my brother's 90 Coupe, and that was probably the most fun I've ever had in a car. Was planning a KA24DET for my 89 Hatchback, but that didn't happen.

 

Anyway...you're definitely facing a tough issue. Only thing left to ask about are:

1. Do you run an wheel spacers?

2. Have you check the runout on the wheel hubs?

3. Have you check the runout on the rear driveshaft?

4. Is the rear driveshaft balanced?

 

Love the RBs in any flavor, 20, 25, 26, they sing so sweetly! The KA that is coming out of my Zenki is most likely going to get a rebuild and turbo and then placed into my parent's '95 240sx in the next couple years. It should be a fun project.

 

1. No wheel spacers.

 

2. Not yet. If I am checking the hub runout, what surface do I place the dial gauge against?

 

3. I had the driveshaft inspected a couple years ago, and the shop said it was straight, though I'm pretty sure they didn't break out the dial gauge. Can the runout tolerance be found in the FSM? If I am going to setup the dial gauge I might as well check both the hubs and driveshaft.

 

4. I'm not totally sure, I've never had it checked. I think I would need to take it to a driveshaft shop to check, correct? The one I may be having build the new shaft for the 240sx is out of town. We used to have a very good shop in town, but they closed a few years ago after the owner passed away and no one wanted to take over the business.

[hawairish]

Oops, I threw in an extra T in there (RB20DET). But yeah, that was a fun engine...we were breaking traction in 3rd gear at 70 mph if we drop-clutched. All the 240SXs were great...brother had a 96 at some point that we did an MT swap and 5-lug swap on, but it got totalled when somebody cut him off.

 

You can check hub runout on the outer face of the wheel hub close to the perimeter. There's not much surface to work with as the lugs are also close to the edge, but there's a small amount of space.

 

And yes, the FSM has specific runout specs (.6mm) and provides exact locations to take the measurements at. A driveline shop would have to balance it though.

[LittleFR]

My end links did that to me. I had sway bar bushings too but didn't change them because I didn't need them.

Also once I had to re torque a wheel bearing, but sounds like your good there.

 

Also I had a wheel that kept chucking weights off.. I took it to a shop that finally had the right weights for my wheels and a shop tech smart enough to put them on.

 

I jacked up my rearend against all recommendations and ran it up to 50 (the speed I had most issues and checked for driveshaft vibe and rotated tires till I found the wheel giving me fits. I had a tire with a bad bead, before, I got new alignment lift and tires and I was ready to scream.

 

I hope you get it all figured out.

Edited November 16, 2016 by LittleFR

[drewp29]

Oops, I threw in an extra T in there (RB20DET). But yeah, that was a fun engine...we were breaking traction in 3rd gear at 70 mph if we drop-clutched. All the 240SXs were great...brother had a 96 at some point that we did an MT swap and 5-lug swap on, but it got totalled when somebody cut him off.

 

You can check hub runout on the outer face of the wheel hub close to the perimeter. There's not much surface to work with as the lugs are also close to the edge, but there's a small amount of space.

 

And yes, the FSM has specific runout specs (.6mm) and provides exact locations to take the measurements at. A driveline shop would have to balance it though.

 

I knew what you meant, lol, though you could twin turbo the RB20, that would be awesome too! 240s are incredibly fun in any configuration since they are light and nimble and easy to throw around curves. Mine is fun with the base KA, so I am salivating at the chance to drive it with the RB25. I'm sure I'll need to change my underpants the first time I really get on the throttle :-) . Bummer about the '96, that really sucks. So many are being drifted these days and being sent to the car graveyard that it is a shame, and difficult to find a good condition, unmolested example of any model. My build is putting emphasis on quality and building a reliable, good looking S chassis that will hopefully remain in my possession for the next 40 years or more.

 

Thank you for the direction on the dial gauge. I won't be able to get to it this weekend since we have a family b-day get together tonight, the local brew fest tomorrow (I also enjoy a quality beer!), and the football game with a little poker tourney on Sunday, but I may be able to check it next week or the following weekend.

 

My end links did that to me. I had sway bar bushings too but didn't change them because I didn't need them.

Also once I had to re torque a wheel bearing, but sounds like your good there.

 

Also I had a wheel that kept chucking weights off.. I took it to a shop that finally had the right weights for my wheels and a shop tech smart enough to put them on.

 

I jacked up my rearend against all recommendations and ran it up to 50 (the speed I had most issues and checked for driveshaft vibe and rotated tires till I found the wheel giving me fits. I had a tire with a bad bead, before, I got new alignment lift and tires and I was ready to scream.

 

I hope you get it all figured out.

 

By end links do you mean sway bar links? or steering rack outer tie rods? I had changed my sway bar end links, but the ones I bought were cheap as I found out, and they are shot already. The bottom spherical joint is clunky. I did change back to the stock link on the passenger side as it is still in good condition, but forgot to change the driver side when I swapped brake pads last weekend. I realized after I had the truck back on the ground and the lug nuts torqued.

 

I'm running Treadwright Warden tires now, which are BFG AT KO clones, with the kedge grip compound. They'll wear faster than the standard rubber, but I hopefully will be splitting time between the Pathy in the winter and 240sx in the summer, so I'm guessing they'll last about the same amount of time as the previous set. I got 40k miles out of the TW Sentinels I had before these, and my Pathy sits at almost 200k miles now. Starts every time, and other than a fair amount of oil consumption the VQ engine is notorious for, it still runs great. I suspect by the time I need tires again I'll be looking at a low mileage VQ replacement or a rebuild to stop the blow by.

 

I tend to drive cars until I am unable to repair them myself, unless it gets smashed up somehow.