Intermittent No Start - Smoke

[JayTheGent]

Hey all,

 

Finished up fixing some ignition issues and thought I was good to go. After about a week of driving with no problems, I went to start her and it would crank, than made a whirling sound (kind of like a failing starter). After a few tries, smoke came from under the hood. I got out to check it as quick as I could, looked like it was coming from the driver side, maybe around the catalytic converter, most of it had disappeared by the time I got there. It definitely smelled like exhaust though.

 

Got back in and turn the key and she started and drove just fine. I also noted a faint smell of exhaust from my ac, but that went away pretty quick.

 

In about a month, this has happened three times. No codes have been thrown,no decrease in gas mileage, what could this be?

 

The symptoms are the same every time, cranks then makes a weird sound. Try again and again until there's a popping sound and smoke comes out, then fires right up on the next crank.

 

Possibly a clogged catalytic converter? It just seems strange that it is only on start up?

 

I changed the distributer about a month ago. The first replacement was bad, so maybe this one is too? The only thing I could think of is that it's not firing correctly and fuel is sprayed in then when it finally catches, the excess fuel causes excess exhaust? I may be way off base though.

 

As usual, I appreciate any help!

[Rebelord]

Your timing may be off.

Is it cold starts or hot starts when it does this?

 

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[JayTheGent]

It could be but I double checked timing on install with a light. Before I realized the new distributor was broken, I even stripped down to the timing belt to make sure I didn't jump a tooth or snap the belt. Timing belt was done 12k ago and timing was spot on.

 

Checked timing on the pulley and set it to the recommended setting. What's really throwing me off is that it runs perfectly fine. Just like it did when I bought it 80k ago.

[Rebelord]

Hmm if it's at 15° +/- a blonde one. Your good.

No codes throwing. Have you taken a look in the FSM under troubleshooting for hard starts? May give some ideas.

 

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[NovaPath]

is it possible the Smoke you are seeing is electrical? Odd that the starter makes a weird noise before you see it. Engine issues, unless really major, will normally cause smoke out the tailpipe not externally from the engine under the hood. Check your starter wiring and look for any burnt marks.

[JayTheGent]

Thanks for all the help guys. Checked timing and it was off by 10 degrees. Strange, I thought, since I know I double checked it.

 

Went to take the bolt off of the distributor and it was really loose. Adjusted the timing back to 15 btdc and went to tighten the bolt, it slid right in. Looks like the threads where the distributor bolt goes are shredded...

 

So my next question is how do I go about fixing this? Tap the exiting hole to a slightly larger diameter? Tap a new hole completely? What's the most efficient way of solving this?

[JayTheGent]

Just wanted to let everyone know that I did my due diligence and searched the topic. It's seemsas though I have a few options... get a longer bolt, drill and tap old hole for a larger bolt, helicoil or loctite thread repair.

 

Does anybody have experience repairing stripped threads?

[Cuong Nguyen]

Helicoil is good if you have existing threads. Since you say you don't, you'll need to tap larger.

 

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[JayTheGent]

Hey all, discovered I could just buy a new flange for dirt cheap (30 bucks). I'm just gonna go that route instead of drilling. The helicoil kit was about the same price.

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/22178-support-distributor-xterra-wd22-2000-2004-p-4681.html

 

 

I have to order the flange so I'll update once I get it in. Thanks for all the help and ideas!

[JayTheGent]

Problem not solved... drove to class and parked for about 30 minutes. Went to start her and got the crank no start. Tried 3 or 4 times. I pulled the fuel line and got blasted. Reconnected the fuel line and she started right up...

 

Shouldn't fuel pressure be returned through the return line?

[JayTheGent]

Not sure if it matters, but it's been crazy hot in Corvallis.

[Slartibartfast]

The fuel pressure regulator is there to keep the fuel pressure to the injectors where it should be and bleed off excess to the return line; stop flow from the pump and it'll just close up and hold that pressure. My dad sprayed himself trying to troubleshoot my '95 once. If you're just doing a filter or something you can pull the pump fuse and run the motor until it stalls to use up that pressure, but clearly that wouldn't have helped in your case.

The symptoms aren't ringing any bells for me. Any new codes? How's the vac line to the pressure regulator?

[JayTheGent]

Thanks for the response. I haven't checked it, to be honest. The regulator is located behind the intake manifold by the firewall right?

 

Should I take the manifold off to get a closer look?

[JayTheGent]

Also, absolutely no codes, but I drove home and have been using a different car since... a minivan with over 270k. I can't let that thing outlive the Pathy!

[JayTheGent]

Looked around and found what might be a decent solution, matches some of my symptoms... coolant temp sensor? Ecm thinks it's a cold start even though the engine is hot. Tries dumping too much fuel, I relieve the fuel pressure and she starts like a champ... makes sense to me.

 

That sensor looks like a PITA to get off. Think I'm gonna change the water pump while I'm in there since I didn't have the funds to do it when I did the timing belt (I was a super broke college student... now I'm just a kinda broke college student).

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.

[Slartibartfast]

Possible I guess, and I have heard of some weird issues caused by failed or failing temp sensors. I would expect it to continue running rich after it starts up though. That's the confusing bit, that it runs fine once it's started.

 

The regulator is by the firewall on my '93 and I didn't have to remove the manifold to replace the vac line, but it is kind of a braille job. I haven't tried it on an R50 so I don't know if they managed to mount more stuff in the way of yours. Again, though, I would expect a screwy regulator to give you trouble while it's running, not just starting. When you turn on the ignition, the pump starts and makes up for any lost pressure in the fuel line pretty quickly, so I'm thinking your fuel spray and the engine starting may have been coincidental.

Also, I doubt this is the issue, but you did set timing with the engine warm, right? And the dizzy's still locked down?

[timpaps]

I have similar issue on my 91 XE 4x4 man. tran. The problem was, the bolt connecting the ground cable from the battery to the engine block was loose. I tighten it up and the problem solved. I found the problem by letting my daughter cranked the engine and I watched under the hood and whalla! sparks fly off. Hope these help.