Strut mounts 02 pathfinder le

[Petercan1020]

I just bought KYB gr2 struts and shocks everybody saying not to buy the KYB mount does anybody know which ones I should buy

[fleurys]

OEM NISSAN is the way to go...

[Petercan1020]

Ty

[Petercan1020]

I noticed all the other ones come and spaces the aftermarket ones do the OEMs come with a spacer as well

[hawairish]

The OEMs don't come with spacers...but that's because there's two OEM numbers for them depending on production date. Pre-12/98 models don't use a spacer. Post-12/98 models use a mount that has the spacer incorporated. The aftermarket ones will fit all R50s because they include spacers, but it only gets used where needed.

 

54320-0W000 (strut mount only, for pre-12/98) and after-market (generally include spacer, strut bearing, nuts):

 

 

 

54320-2W100:

Note the "spacer" already incorporated in the mount.

Edited March 4, 2016 by hawairish

[Petercan1020]

As i look at the oem stuff it seems as if everything is sold separately never look at the aftermarket stuff it shows complete if I buy factory does anybody know exactly what parts I have to buy end part numbers if possible

[Petercan1020]

Thanks for the pic i see difference. Since everybody's telling me to stick to oem I guess I'll stick to oem. Seems it going to be a lot more expensive an aftermarket and it seems like everything is sold separately can somebody help me out and figure out exactly what I need to purchase and part numbers if possible thank you I'm looking at the diagram but I'm just confused

[NovaPath]

I went with Raybestos professional grade about a year ago-no complaints. They have seen some hard wheeling, and been bombed down fire roads at 20mph or more. I've only had them for a year, but they have been put through their paces(including daily commute into DC and around the city every day). My truck has lots of stuff that is wrong, but the strut mounts arent one of them currently!

[hawairish]

Thanks for the pic i see difference. Since everybody's telling me to stick to oem I guess I'll stick to oem. Seems it going to be a lot more expensive an aftermarket and it seems like everything is sold separately can somebody help me out and figure out exactly what I need to purchase and part numbers if possible thank you I'm looking at the diagram but I'm just confused

 

It'll definitely be more expensive. Personally, I'll only go with OEM if I must. I mean, would you buy an OEM shock over an aftermarket one? I think you can get plenty of satisfaction from aftermarket parts, and at a fraction of the costs of OEM.

 

Almost always, a single OEM part number represents a single part without accessories/hardware. There are exceptions where the part number is instead an assembly. In order to know the difference (and to get p/ns in general), I use parts.nissanusa.com and courtesyparts.com.

[Petercan1020]

Sorry do i buy just that part or do i buy all the parts associated with it i know to buy the rubber in pic and bearing do i replace everything on the top and bottom of spring

[hawairish]

Generally, replace parts when they:

 

1) Fail visual/functional inspection

2) Are worth doing it "while you're at it"...i.e., the cost of the part, relative to the labor process and cost to install it later, is small enough to justify replacing it now.

3) Are designated with a white X in a black circle in FSM diagrams, indicating "always replace after every disassembly". These are usually nuts in high-torque applications (suspension, engine) and gaskets/seals in fluid/oil applications.

 

The strut mount nuts (p/n 01225-00231) satisfy #3.

The strut bearing (54325-5V000) satisfies #2.

 

The bumpstop boot assembly (54050-0W002) is a #1/#2 part in my book...it may look fine now, but if you doubt it will last another 30K+ miles (or whatever you want/expect the strut lifespan to be), just replace it. Some boots are a thin ABS material that will eventually reach a deterioration point and fail uniformly. They end up looking like a stack of shredded plastic rings, which may shorten strut lifespan if they allow dirt and salt into the strut.

 

Parts like the upper seat, the upper insulator, or coil end sleeve tubes usually satisfy #1. You can re-use them if they're in good shape (no rust, tears, frays, crumbling, etc.). This usually depends on the age, location of the vehicle, and manner in which it's driven.

 

Obviously, the costs of parts add up, especially if considering OEM. My personal preference about buying OEM vs. aftermarket is that unless I'm certain an OEM part will last 2x-3x longer (to justify its usual 2x-3x costs), I simply won't buy it. (But this doesn't mean I buy the cheapest parts either.)

Edited March 7, 2016 by hawairish