Odd electric issues... engine work was easier

[crab]

What I've been working on this afternoon.

 

 

 

 

Ashtray goes bye bye.

[crab]

If you have power locks, I do not recommend graphite. The locks on my '95 went nuts when I did that. They would actually run the lock motor inside against the key sometimes. To be fair, I did blow a ton of graphite into them, and there could've been some other issue that unseizing the driver's lock exposed, (and those locks were never quite right to begin with,) but given that there's an electrical switch at the back of the cylinder, something non-conductive is probably best.

 

WD40 isn't terrible but it does tend to attract dirt.

 

From what I've read, something silicone or teflon based tends to do better.

 

I found a locksmith who fixed my locks. Turns out the ignition key was just too old to work in the door. Changed the master door switch at the drivers position and at least 3 of the 4 windows go up and down, better than before. Now I need to replace the ridiculous speakers the PO put in the doors before I put it all back together.

[crab]

Now that the motor has had everything changed ( all in the sig), it's on to the myriad electric issues. If there are good threads for any of these issues, that's all I'm really asking for. Thanks.

 

No horn

 

1 headlight, no High beam ( changed bulb, same symptoms) This may be the headlight switch? Ordered one off ebay. mine has a screw in the side of it from the PO). everything needs changing on this $800 rig. But I'm already in love, so time to man up.

 

No backup lights ( took out one bulb, looked fine) by the way who is the sadist that designed the rear light assemblies? And the head lights , for that matter. Do you reach in from above, or remove the air cleaner on one side and the battery on the other? Links, people, I need links.

 

Doors do not lock or unlock with key. Afraid to try the electric lock from the drivers door. I might get stuck in there permanently.

 

Windows do not roll up on either rear door. It's January people, and one window is open. I have cardboard and plastic over the opening.

 

Whats the recommended way to remove the door panels?

 

I fixed the no clock/ no courtesy lights/no cabin lights issue. The rear cargo area light was smashed and shorted, as I hoped. Pull that out, change a fuse and voila, inside lights.

 

That's just the electrics that I need help with. There's more.....

Update on all this:

 

* Headlights fixed with a new headlight/cruise control switch

* Backup lights still broken, have not gone looking for the switch on the trans

* Still no horn, haven't looked into it. Where is the damn thing?

* Doors lock! Found a good locksmith, It WAS the key I had just being worn down.

* Windows roll up AND down, whenever I ask them to. Replaced Master controller, that fixed one read door; the other rear one was simply unplugged inside the door.

 

* Remedied the dash mess, now have an actual stereo and accessory plugs in the dash and more in the console.

 

The kids will actually drive in it now. I must be doing something wrong.

 

On another note, is a backup camera foolish? I cant see squat out the back, day or night. Don't they have them that work on your smart phone?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 1, 2016 by crab

[Slartibartfast]

A backup camera would be lovely, especially with a 31" tire on the carrier. Not entirely sure where I'd put the screen, though.

The horns are sort of behind the front bumper, below the headlights. IIRC you can get at them from the wheel well. I replaced mine when I had my front end apart anyway.