Re-indexing the traction bar

[Guest tonkatoy]

I was just checking out so ideas for lifts on this site. I have just invested 1400.00 in having the front end replaced. What though is re-indexing the traction bar. I have already ordered some jgc lift springs for the rear, and also thinking of spacers due to the rear tire carrier weight. but the front end seems to be the real challenge. I would appreciate any ideas for it. I think just cranking the front end up makes the tires ride on the edges and overall I think this would be a cause of traction loss. I'm only trying to go for 33's I don't rough house I just need a little extra, with all the guy's running 40's and more make it hard for those of us with 31's to tread behind them.

Not that 2 inches is alot but to get a little closer to the best hunting spot sure beats all the extra walking.

[jj big shoe]

Someone else said it, but they said it best:

3+3=33's

You'll need to get a 3" susp. lift as well as a 3" body lift plus some serious fender trimming in order to fit 33's on your rig. Re-indexing torsion bars is recommended if you can't achieve the amount of desired lift from simply cranking them up a bit, which is explained here:

Torsion bar lift

As mentioned in the previous link, sometimes it isn't possible to achieve correct alignment once you do this type of modification. Some folks have installed longer upper control arm spindle bolts and thicker shims to correct it, but the preferred method is to replace the UCA's with aftermarket ones that allow for correct upper ball joint angle. The consensus around here is the UCA's from Automotive Customizers aren't worth spit, Superlifts (which I have) are very trail worthy and dependabe, and Calmini although pricey makes the truly be-all-end-all monster mutha beefy set. I cranked the torsion bars up on my '87 and mounted 32" BFG A/T's on 15x8 rims with 3.75" backspacing and still had to trim the flares as well as the sheet metal

 

If you decide to go with the Superlift A-arms, check here:

Click

I looked around and they had the best price. Tell them you need part # 6065 which gets you the A-arms only, not the whole kit intended for the Hardbody with rear leaf spring brackets and all. I think mine were $235 or so.

 

I hope I gave you some useful info. Sorry for the long post, but I'm bored and I get a bit chatty after a beer or nine. -alcohol-

Edited March 6, 2005 by jj big shoe

[hardwaretoad]

Be forewarned that peeps using JGC coils for a rear lift have been using stock used JGC V8 front ones, not aftermarket lift coils. Even at that, they've been cutting the top of the pigtail off & chamfering the edges so they fit correctly... -study-

 

Just thought I'd give you a heads up...

[88pathoffroad]

That or re-bending the end coil with a torch and bar...

[Precise1]

Kinda a summary of all the good information above... Install JGC springs in the rear, and beef up the front end with components if you wheel a lot. Crank the T-bars until its near level (depends on what you have installed, but it should be ok with 1" UCA bump stop clearance) and drive it.

31" tires are what you can run without problems. Unfortunately Pathys were not engineered to be jacked to the hilt, but are very capable. Good tires would probably serve you just as well.

Driving style means a lot... Any chump can dig through a mud hole with a V8 and 40" tires, but then I've slithered around the same people when they were stuck in my old 720 PU with 235/75/15 tires... There is hero off roading and there is getting to where you want to go. Admititedly there are places I wouldn't even try with my Pathy that a 12" lift Ram Charger with Swampers could go, but thats apples and oranges...

 

B

[Slick]

I just finished (yesterday) installing a brand new set of JGC coils and Rancho shocks on my Pathy.. I took the tire carrier off 2 weeks ago....gave the sagging torsion bars a little lift..n she is lookin awesome! I am soooo stoked. And lucky it didn't make my alignment any worse! YAHOOOOO!!!!

[Ramithepimp77]

PICS!!! NOW!!!

 

Rami