Rear axle swap (HG-43) Disc to Drum?

[microfiz]

Hi Guys,

 

My rear differential blew and I've been scouring the JY for a replacement. I found a suitable differential from a 1996 Pathfinder (I have a 1992 5-sp 4X4 with HG-43 diff). The problem is that it's drum (and I've noticed that practically all A/T transmissioned Pathys have drums and 4.6 ratios expect this one car).

 

So is it swappable? If I want to keep the disc brakes, would it be possible? I read that the spline to the hubs have to match but I can't find any info to confirm? I don't mind switching to drum either if it's easier. Appreciate your feedback.

[hawairish]

The axle won't work for you. Different splines (31 vs 33), different pan hard bar mount (R50 is mounted to chassis on LH side, WD21 on RH side), different HG43 (4.375 vs 4.363), and I believe even different springs and traction bar locations.

 

But, all you need is the 3rd member...and it's an easy swap. You can also pull from any Hardbody pick-up up to 97. You can also swap in an LSD unit, and possibly the carrier on an HG46 (just install your ring gear on it). And you can keep your disc brakes, of course.

 

What blew on your differential? Ring & pinion, spider gears, both?

 

I happen to have an HG43 LSD from a 93 or 95 (not sure) Pathfinder in my garage. Depending on where you are in CA, and how long you can wait, it might be of use. I'll be in SoCal around the end of the month, and NorCal the beginning of October.

[microfiz]

Thanks. I sent you a PM, Hawaiirish.

 

When you say third member, do you mean just the pumpkin portion of the rear axle (the gear assembly)? That is actually the damaged part. I think it started with catastrophic bearing failure which lead to pinion destruction (the pinion yolk blew off the rear diff and is now attached to the propeller drive shaft). Is a third member replacement easier? I looked online and it looks like I just need to pull the axle shafts slightly to remove it. Not familiar with this procedure (but if given guidance, I should be able to do it). I also have air tools to make the job easier. Thanks!

 

Ron

[MY1PATH]

yes the pumpkin is the 3rd member. Each shaft has to come out a few inches and pumpkin will unbolt from the housing and come out. 87-95 pathfinder 3rd members will all fit but some of them have a thrust block that the shafts would but up to. This thrust block must be removed if your axles do not slide all the way in.

There are 4 bolts holding each axle in place but I highly recommend disconnecting the the parking brake, unbolt the the caliper and hang it in the wheel well so you can fully remove the shaft. Reason being is the axle seals are over 20 years old and when we partially pull the shafts we tend to "hang" the shaft on the seal which stretches/wears/cracks the seal and can lead to leaks. So now is a good time to pull the shaft all the way and change the "inner" oil seals. Go with Timken of SKF if you want them to last another 20 years.
The "outer" seals can be left alone(lot of extra work) they are a grease only seal and will not leak as long as your inner seal is good.

[hawairish]

PM replied.

 

Yep, it's exactly as MY1PATH described. Just detach the brakes, pull the axles out (a little for the carrier, completely for the seals), undo the driveshaft, undo the 11 nuts on the diff housing, and that's about it. Changing the seal is also a good idea, and of course you'll need a new gasket (or sealant) for the diff, and a razor blade to scrape off any old gasket material on the axle housing.

 

In your case, you just need to unbolt the pinion flange from the driveshaft.

 

Here's a pic taken from the internet of two H233B diffs (the lower one being from a newer model that has the ABS tone ring and sensor on the snout). As you can see, it's an all-in-one unit. You could replace the internals, but far easy to just replace the whole unit.