95 4x4 clutch replacement

[RF600]

Here is my write up for a clutch replacement on a 95 4x4. I didn't drop the trans and xfer case. I just slid it back.

I didn't include a pic for every step. I only have a pic of what needs to be removed. I will put the pic at the end. If you are going to replace your clutch I assume you know what things are.

Measure the current ride height. Write it down. I used the body line as a measure point. Disconnect the battery.

Jack up the front and remove the wheels. Lower it back down some and place on jack stands.

Mark the torsion bars. You want to put them back in the same spot.
Remove the torsion bars and torsion bar cross member. Now is a good time to replace the dust boots on the bars if they have fallen off.
Remove the front drive line.
Remove the exhaust.
Remove the rear drive line. Put a plug in the transfer case or you will lose some fluid.

I used a motorcycle jack to support the transmission and transfer case. I also used ratchet straps to keeps things where I wanted them.

Remove the trans cross member.
Remove the bell housing bolts. There are 2 bolts is weird places. Both go in the opposite direction compared to the rest of the bell housing bolts. 1 is under the starter. Yes you should completely remove the starter. 1 is under the oil switch, next to the oil filter. You can gain access through the fender well.

There is also a bracket on the drivers side of the engine. It has 2 bolts that go in the opposite direction from the rest of the bell housing bolts.

Disconnect the connectors at the trans. There are some wires attached to the trans. They are attached by tabs that are bent to hold them. Unbend and move out of the way.

After everything is removed slide the trans and xfer case back. It will take some moving around to get it slid back. Keep in mind of where the rear of the xfer case is. It will have to go through the drive line safety loop.

I have a body lift on my rig. It will help when sliding the trans and xfer case back. Without the body lift it will take a bit more work. The bell housing bolts will be a little more difficult to remove. You may have to work the trans a little more to get it to clear the body when sliding it back.

Remove the pressure plate and disc.
Remove the flywheel.
If your rear main is leaking now is a time to replace it.

I there are any exposed wires. Now is a good time to fix them. Also replace any loom that has cracked, and or missing.

Remove the pilot bushing. The grease method didn't work for me so I had to use a chisel. Install pilot bushing.

The flywheel doesn't always need to be turned. Mine wasn't bad so I used a random orbital sander and roughed up the surface with some 120. You just want to take the old surface off. Not too much.

Remove the throw out bearing. Most clutch kits don't include the sleeve so you have to remove the sleeve and reuse it. Make sure the throw out bearing is on the fork properly and operates properly before you mate the trans back to the engine. You don't want to have to do it again.

Put flywheel back on. Torque to spec.

Install the disc with the alignment tool. Put on the pressure plate. Torque the pressure plate bolts to spec. Remove the alignment tool.

Lube the input shaft before mating the trans to the engine.

After you are sure things are done and torqued down, time to mate the trans to the engine. This is where it helps to have a friend assist. Stabbing it by yourself can be done. It will be a bit more frustrating.

After the trans is mated to the engine put the trans cross member in and remove the jack.

From there put things back together. The last thing to put on is the torsion bars. With the torsion bars off it is easier to get to the exhaust bolts.

Here is the pic of what needs to be removed.


Afterward enjoy some beverages of your choice and consider you didn't spend a butt load of money paying someone to do it

Edited March 29, 2015 by Precise1

[RF600]

I can't edit my post?

 

I also need to mention that there is a bracket on the drivers side of the engine. It has 2 bolts that go in the opposite direction from the rest of the bell housing bolts.

 

I have a body lift on my rig. It will help when sliding the trans and xfer case back. Without the body lift it will take a bit more work. The bell housing bolts will be a little more difficult to remove. You may have to work the trans a little more to get it to clear the body when sliding it back.

[Precise1]

There is an edit time limit of 10 or 15 minutes, unfortunately some people make that necessary.

 

I added those two comments where it seemed appropriate, let me know if you agree.

 

So it didn't go too badly then.

How does the clutch feel now? Did you bleed it as well?

 

B

[RF600]

I bought a clutch kit from the dealer. It is a really soft pedal. Noticeably lighter than what I took out. The clutch I removed was a nissan clutch.

 

I put a napa clutch in my brother's pathfinder and it has more pressure. Weird how different companies make the same thing but so different. I wasn't having any pedal issues so I didn't bleed it when I finished.

 

Smooth, kind of. Working by yourself is a bit rough. I did have my buddy help me mate the trans back to the engine. Other than that it was a 2 full day job. I'm a bit worn out and some sore muscles.

 

Hopefully this helps out some people who are looking to do this.

 

4x2 is cake compared. The transmission on these rigs are heavy, very heavy. More things to deal with on the 4x4. I didn't have to remove the torsion bars on a 4x2. I'm glad I changed it when I did. It was really close to the rivets, but didn't wear into the flywheel. Therefore I wasn't worried about not turning the flywheel.

[Jmoor85]

This is a good write up and very helpful to me as I will be doing mine on my 93. Thanks for the time you took to post this.

[joshua01niner]

This is a really great write up!!!!

This is what motivates me..

 

I'll be doing my clutch soon!