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Factory track question


Quaintbucket
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I'm looking to put a basket rack on the roof and don't really want to spend $400 on feet for the inverted T factory track on top of my pathfinder. My craigslist search has been extremely fruitless as well.


I was humming and hawing over it and thought of a possible solution but I am not sure if it will work. This was kind of inspired by my tie down points.


I was thinking of using the existing tie down point or grabbing some thin steel of metal with holes drilled and tapped into the T then adding a long high grade steel bolt into the piece with washers and rubber to cushion it and increase the height as well. Should not cost me more than $20 overall for the parts and would add 6-8 mounting points (3-4 on both sides).


It's hard for me to explain so I will show it through a picture.


zveJPT2.jpg


So basically: Bolt -> metal washer -> roof rack -> metal washer -> rubber -> mount point in T


My concern is, would that even work? I know I would have to elevate it a little more due to the curve on the roof but what about weight capacity and distribution? I tried to find out the load capacity of the factory tracks in the FSM but nothing. :confused:


If you think this is a bad idea, tell me so and I won't be upset. Just thinking of a possibility. I still have one of the factory cross bar, I would just have to find another one... just not a lot of luck in that department either.

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I plan on using these with new bolts to hold down my cheap walmart roof rack when i get it

 

043da8711d4af2611072afd37acb7c4a.jpg

 

If its wide enough im going to drill the roof rack and bolt through it if its not im going to use some sort of like light mount that has a round piece to flat

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I was thinking along the same thing as you did. I took it off and looked inside to see if there was a way to the head and replace it with a new bolt. Nothing.

 

I'm thinking of getting this

 

1819t26p1l.png?ver=11699059

 

and buying some piping (hollow or solid, I don't know yet) for the cargo rack on top. It's not exactly what I had envisioned in mind but... I'll have to see.

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Do you have a picture? I can see it working for roof lights but not sure how it will hold up under weight with a roof rack.

My owners manual says 100 LBS. max. on the stock racks but I've worked with a sheet of 3/4" plywood layed directly on my roof tracks to use as a work platform with myself and a helper and 12' sheets of drywall plus tools, beer etc., probably at least 550 to 600 LBS. If your new rack is strong enough the rails should hold that plus lots more. More mounts will distribute the weight better. That much weight might make you a bit top heavy on the corners but then again we weren't driving while we were doing this.

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I'm in BC, Canada sadly but thank you!

 

My owners manual says 100 LBS. max. on the stock racks but I've worked with a sheet of 3/4" plywood layed directly on my roof tracks to use as a work platform with myself and a helper and 12' sheets of drywall plus tools, beer etc., probably at least 550 to 600 LBS. If your new rack is strong enough the rails should hold that plus lots more. More mounts will distribute the weight better. That much weight might make you a bit top heavy on the corners but then again we weren't driving while we were doing this.

Sounds perfect to me. I just want to make sure my rails don't crush itself or send the rack flying off the pathy. I am going to assume 150-200lb max safely which is more than enough for the gears I have in mind.

 

Stoic has a write up in his thread on how he mounted his roof rack. Did exactly what you originally thought of.

As soon as you posted that, I was like, "oh yeah! I remember that before!" So I looked for it.

 

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1207452

 

Boom. I'm going to look at what bushnut did as well and see which one works better. I think stioc's will definitely be much more cheaper.

 

Got my answer, thank you all!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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