RamboRedRex Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 First off that sparkplug in the back behind the Intake manifold can suck it... besides that im happy with the engine set up, I dont really like the idea of having to take the manifold off to replace valve covers but oh well. Ill be replacing the headers and studs at sometime, it currently could give a Huey Helicopter a run for its money on sound alone. i need to replace a few things obviously, got the old girl at a Buy Here Pay Here lot for 2k. they converted my A/C so im rollin in nice cold air. took me a couple of weeks to finally clean out the evap box enough to where it would drain properly. I LOVE THIS STUPID TRUCK!!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teixeira Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 That's an original intro... We love pics. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIssanBoston Posted August 5, 2014 Share Posted August 5, 2014 ^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamboRedRex Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 http://i.imgur.com/qX7BFQn.jpg 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamboRedRex Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 it also has wheel locks from some past owner..... I dont have the lock key, looks like ill be abusing a socket in the near future. does anyone have a suggestion why my fuel gauge is around half a tank off, the pump works fine and the float is in tact and moves freely. could it just be because its old as dirt. I have been testing how long i can go on E, my first attempt was 240 miles on one tank, 266 on the second, 286 on the 3rd, then i got balls and went to 308 yesterday on one tank. I basically did 180 miles with the gauge reading E, the light started to flicker on and off at like 306 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 That #6 plug is a bear the first time you try to change it. It gets easier the next. Welcome to NPORA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kafike Posted August 6, 2014 Share Posted August 6, 2014 A couple extensions and a swivel adapter and the #6 isn't too bad. Welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamboRedRex Posted August 6, 2014 Author Share Posted August 6, 2014 Here are the plugs I took out with the driver side most forward plug being the one on the bottom right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Maybe it's my phone screen but most of those look lean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kafike Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 They look pretty lean here as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamboRedRex Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 i cleaned the Distributer cap gunk off as well, it was nasty. im guna pull the plugs again when i mess with the exhaust manifold studs just to check to see if the ones i put in are showing the same signs. I also changed the air filter and flushed the engine oil a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamboRedRex Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 now that yall mention it, im wondering if I need to look at my Fuel system again, pump, filter, injectors.... hmmm yall arnt making me happy.... here you go ROCK AUTO take my money JUST TAKE IIIITTTTTT!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 If you haven't replaced the wires you may want to look in to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Since you're throwing money at it, perhaps a set of headers too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamboRedRex Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Since you're throwing money at it, perhaps a set of headers too ill be posting a picture me throwing money at my Pathy (is that the proper term, I just call it a floozy) I was guna get new headers (OEM) or try to reuse the old ones and see about getting new heat shielding for them but I keep seeing people talk about Pacesetter's but im guessing they arnt plug and play, seems like there is a little fab work to get them to fit right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 not so much 'fab work'. I have pacesetters and they fit fine with the following considerations: Grind the mounting surface nice and flat so it makes a good seal on the head. May need to slightly bend your EGR tube to fit well. When installing, loose-fit everything before tightening. I have an auto tranny and the crossover pipe was a little tricky to get to fit well. install an oil filter relo kit first. Otherwise, the headers may get in the way of the filter change. Add a little shielding (I used sheet aluminum and bailing wire) between the headers and relo-kit hoses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted August 7, 2014 Share Posted August 7, 2014 Welcome to the forum ! If you are looking for an economic and scalable solution for a rear lift or level your truck, come and visit http://4x4design.com/Pathfinder_R50_96-04.php (near the bottom of the page) * we also make custom stickers * http://4x4design.com/Stickers_Decals.html - Just ask for quote ! Cheers. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CIGARGUY Posted August 10, 2014 Share Posted August 10, 2014 Welcome aboard from another newbie! I'm working on getting mine sorted out as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaintbucket Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Love the intro and I hear you on the #6 spark plug being a PITA. I remember taking cleaning the area with the air compressor before removing the plug altogether and would walk back to the work bench, grab the new spark plug, walk back and get ready to thread it in by hand until... "where did it go...?" Took a good 10-20 minutes to find it by hand and then I would go, "ok! let's put the plug in" grab the plug while I took my hands out and then go, "ah crap I lost it again." Much fun was had. Good thing you don't have to do it again for another probably 100k km? My spark plugs looked pretty similar to yours except they were missing nipples at the end and the gap was probably .050 Enjoy your R50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ONCEBITN Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 i recently did water pump, timing belt, all pullys, alternator, main power relay, battery, spark plugs wires and cap and rotor, and all new belts, these trucks can set you back a few dollars but in the end its worth it, i dont have to mess with the truck for at least 35k now, so do all you can while you can, oh and welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goosevf_1 Posted August 19, 2014 Share Posted August 19, 2014 (edited) If you havent found a solution to your fuel sender yet, you can check it with a multimeter. Messure the resistance throught the range of travel. A good start is if it changes smoothly or quite irradically. If the number is jumping around a wide range its probably no good, or your voltmeter has a bad connection, if its smooth thats a good sign. To dive further into that, check the FSM in the garage section for the resistance specs of the unit. If its out of spec, time for a new pump! Edited August 19, 2014 by Goosevf_1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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