Fixing up '95 in Costa Rica

[95CRPath]

Hellofellows,

joined this forum 'cause it's time to fix my '95 SE up a bit. Already saw the "Common problems/fixes" thread; excellent stuff. Need to tackle some of those isues as well, just need to get the parts first.

 

Looking for info about good places to find those parts (online) and how-to's.
Some of the problems I'd like to fix are:
-weather strips front doors. Part # 80820-01G00 and 80821-01G00.
I found some on Ebay for D21 but it says not for Pathfinder. Are these indeed different?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-NAVARA-D21-PICKUP-PICK-UP-WINDOW-GLASS-SEALS-DOOR-WEATHER-STRIP-95-96-97-/170828604875?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c62da5cb&vxp=mtr

- Finish plate passenger side. Part# 62256-55G00. Would like to find a used one with lamps, if possible.
- and fog lamp driver side. Part # 999F1-AA002 (?).

- Armrest left and right. 80941-55G23 and 80940-55G23 ( I think)

- Bushing for spare tire carrier (and whatever else is needed there)

- Front doors hinges/pins

Trying to add some pics, but looks you can't upload them from computer, only link them. Is that right?

I'm sure there's more to come!
Any comments or suggestions welcome.
Thanks!

[Precise1]

Hello, and welcome!

 

We do have a How To sub category on the Garage section, so that is a place to start. Also try using the advanced search for topics as well.

Are you looking for new or used parts? Rob at factorynissanparts.com has great prices and can ship internationally so he should be a good resource for you.

 

I've always understood that the D21 and WD21 are identical from the front doors forward, but there are small differenced in lights, grill, and perhaps trim? The best way to confirm would be have someone look up both and cross reference the part numbers. Some independent sites like Rock Auto might have that info as well.

 

Yes, pictures need to be uploaded to a host and linked.

 

B

[95CRPath]

Thanks Precise1!

 

I checked and part#s for D21 and WD21 are the same, for weather strips. I'll get those off Ebay.

 

Another thing I want to change/fix are the free wheeling hubs (if that's what they're called). Looking for used ones. I think '95 is the only year where they had 28 teeth (again, if that's what they're called that's how they call them here). ?

 

When I have time I'll throw some pics up.

 

 

[Precise1]

Ok, good to know the window trim is the same.

 

Do you mean the autolocking hubs, or manually selected hubs? Here in the US, all Pathfinders (WD21) 1990-1995 had the 28 spline drive. If you just want a used set of the auto locking hubs, that should be easy to find as many people switch them out with manual locking hubs. Have you tried just removing/cleaning and lightly lubing the ones you have, or is there something damaged or you want spares? As long as there are no damaged parts, cleaning often works.

 

B

[cvdloc]

with the auto hubs you can take them apart and clean em, maybe change out the spring and check for wear, BUT as any members would agree, manual hubs are the way to go. Improves mpg (very slightly but it adds up) and personally never trusted auto hubs, they can pop in and out when rocking. Mile markers are about half the cost as Warn but you pay for what you get.

 

And if I remember correctly 28 spline are in PF 90-01 & HB 90-97

 

Forgot to mention factory manual hubs from HB 4x4 with that spline size will work, but those are gems

 

damn precise1 beat me to it lol

Edited May 12, 2014 by cvdloc

[Slartibartfast]

I tried cleaning out the auto hubs on mine, but they were already too far gone, the clutch bits were worn down beyond tolerance. I went for manuals.

 

The mileage increase is on the R50 Pathfinders, unless those clutches drag more than I thought they did.

[Precise1]

Yes, the mileage increase is only on the R50 when you replace the permanent drive flanges. The CV's do not turn on a WD21 unless it is in 4x4 or locked in with manual hubs.

 

damn precise1 beat me to it lol

Only by a nose! It would have been a draw if it wasn't for the photo finish...

 

B

[95CRPath]

Thanks fellows! Sorry it's been a while. Acquired another project that kept (and is keeping ) me busy ('85 Range Rover).

The auto hubs are beyond repair. Been looking for used manual ones but now found some nicely priced new ones.

Also fixed the door hinges/pins, put new weather strips on front doors, new shocks in the back. Car is getting back into shape!

 

Next issue: central door locking. Just doesn't work, only when it's super humid it works OK! Doors also always lock themselves, usually when closing the passenger door. Because it works when very humid I'm thinking a bad contact or something. Any suggestions?

I saw this in the Common Problems/fixes thread:

 

"Power Door Lock Actuator

We found one of ours was defective when manufactured. I suppose I could have tried to get a free repair or replacement, but it was less hassle to fix it myself. It involved reseating a piece of circuit board, and repairing the traces on the board that had been worn through. Many people report success fixing this problem by simply removing the switch and cleaning the contacts inside.

Power Door Locks locking or unlocking on their own

Sometimes during cold weather, hot weather, or just for no reason at all, the power door locks will either pop back up after locking or stay locked without letting the lock cylinder turn and unlock the door. The mechanical assembly connecting the lock cylinder itself to the inner door lock and armatures are mated by the use of small plastic parts that wear out and then break over time."

 

but where and how do I check the assembly and/or the circuit board?

 

Thanks!

[Slartibartfast]

Ah... door locks. [spits out cigar] Welcome to hell, kid.

 

The lock timer's located in the left side of the cargo area, behind the plastic trim. There's the plastic bit that goes around the rear hatch striker, remove the phillips screws (don't press down, they're plastic and they don't grip well) and peel it up, and then pop out the little tail light access hatch, grab that plastic side piece, and pull it out (simple push clips). You're looking for a little plastic box with a label that says Door Lock Timer. The solder joints crack sometimes and make it act up. Cleaning it up and resoldering it might fix your problem. My lock issues are sporadic enough that I have no idea if it helped or not.

 

I still need to check the door assemblies on mine, so I'm no help there. I did have my driver's side lock motor to bits, and it has internal contacts to engage/disengage the motor; I cleaned it up, put it back together, and didn't notice a difference. But, again, sporadic issues.

Mine act up when they're cold, and I can't get worked up about sticking my hands into the door panels when it's cold out. Then it warms up, the issue goes away, and I forget all about it for nine months!

[95CRPath]

Thanks Slartibartfast!
Yes the issue seems to be the timer. Turns out really hard to find one around here, so cleaning it up and resoldering sounds like a good solution.

 

Found some cheap automatic hubs so put those on.

 

Car is probably in better shape now than it has ever been since I've owned it (about 6 years). Thinking of selling it though when central locking is working... It's by far the most reliable car I've ever owned, but it's just using too much fuel. Not too bad on longer trips, but around where I live (mountains, curvy roads) it's nuts. And fuel is EXPENSIVE in Costa Rica. ( I hear you think "and you just bought a Range Rover!?" but that has an Isuzu diesel engine. What actually made me realize how much the Nissan uses.)

If I find a good diesel Pathfinder sometime I might get back into one though!

 

 

[Slartibartfast]

Sorry to hear, but yeah, they're not great on gas. Good luck with the timer.