mikestewart395 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I bought the wheel studs to replace the broken ones a couple of days ago. Christ, what project did I get myself into. Every video I watched was a simple remove the brake and the hub will pull right off. Not so with my Pathy. I removed every bolt on the wheel/Hub assembly and it ain't budging. This is the first 4wd I tinkered with the front wheels. Do I have to remove the center cap and pull out all those clips etc to get the hub to come off, or is it just rust welded on. I should have took some pics before work now that I think of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Yes, you have to remove the locking hub assembly, the snap ring, the locking washer, the bearing nut and the bearings, then it will slide off. Not really that hard, but the hub might need a little persuading at first. I don't like prying, so first I tapped a razor blade into the seam to spread it, then a putty knife, then a chizel and by then it came off. I strongly recommend you download the 1994 FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section, and look at page FA-16 for the exploded view diagram. It all makes sense and is pretty easy when you see how it goes together. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestewart395 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Awesome! Thanks Precise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 No problem! Make sure to grease the splines when you reassemble it. Don't have to fill them, just coat them... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I would advise you to lay a paper towel or towel on the ground and as you remove the hub parts lay them out in the order they are removed, that way you will know how it goes back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestewart395 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 I did, actually used a 2x4 and put the parts on it in a nice little row. Both brake caliper bolts broke so that is another issue. I have to research the best method of dealing with that, drill or use those crazy bits, i forgot the name of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I'm guessing you have a lot of rust or corrosion? Did you use penetrating oil? If they are hard removing, do you stop to let them cool? Turn them back in and re-oil the threads? I don't deal with rust/corrosion every day (NorCal) but as a machnist, I know fasteners really well. Start with this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5361-a-mechanics-tips-and-tricks/ B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikestewart395 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Rust is an understatement. My Pathy id a few years in the mountains of Germany. There isn't anything on it thats metal without rust on it. Yes I did use oil. It was basically stuck fast and in prying it it was a quick snap. On the second one I tried going easier but same thing. I used a ratchet, not and impact gun, etc. Time to buy that stud removing bit kit thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Ahh, sheit! Sometimes there is nothing you can do. Maybe rapping it with a hammer and heat beforehand? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteyPathy Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 (edited) Heating brake caliper bolt is not a good idea. That is a floating pin if it warps the smallest amount will no longer "float" calipers will hang and cause premature wear to pads and rotors, constant drag may make it pull to one side and will also affect fuel milage. On the up side all that shouldn't be necessary if it is built the way I think you can just pull those pins that bolts screw into out and replace them. The flat side of ears on inside mate to caliper and that's what allows you to tighten bolts without them spinning right? Sorry but I'm not familiar with how 94 was built but that's been nissan caliper set up for long time i know. Should be quick, easy and cheap fix. Just be sure to clean holes good and lube with "high temp brake caliper grease" ONLY, normal grease can't take the heat that brakes create. Put new boots on and pop new pins in and DONE! Edited May 16, 2014 by PeteyPathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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