SkiBumBrian Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 (edited) I did a search and found a lot of info on their headers but it was all years ago.... Does anybody have the low down skinny on their newest products? I had read installation issues on non body lifted WD's. I had read some discussion on the "long" or "short" headers and how one was better or auto to manual fitment, etc. Also the ceramic coated to the chrome/nickel question. I am about ready to pop for these but wanna get the right ones. I have a '91 auto, VG30E. Oh, and I live in Commiefornia....... Thanks for the help! Edited February 15, 2014 by SkiBumBrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Thorley headers are legal in Cali IF they have the EGR port, which I believe all the short tubes do. IIRC the long tubes have a different set up for the VG30I? Long tube are better theoretically, but I think all that is made now is the short tube. Still way better than stock and probably the best functioning/fitting CARB legal headers out there. I do not recall them not fitting on non-lifted Pathys (body lift), and the manual VS auto fitment is erroneous, they fit on both. There is a guy selling a set here for $400 and if it is legit, it is a good deal. I like mine, and the smog tech complimented me on them. 1995, 2" BL, auto trans. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Yeah, I have been talking to Kenny, I just want to make sure what he has is CARB and a recent design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Those look like the right ones to me. See the threaded bung hole on the left one? That is where the EGR pipe goes. The Y pipe and cross over pipe with the lap joint look the same as well. I can even give you the part number for the Walker lap joint band clamp, $12 at Summit IIRC. When did he buy them? He said it was through Rugged Rocks? That was 1-2 years ago so they have to be right... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 He said they used his truck for a mock up and I imagine they gave him the headers for his time. He is packing them up and shipping them off to me. I feel a bit of flu coming on the Friday after I get them.... That should give me time to take off the old manifolds, replace studs, put it all back together and have the full flow cat and muffler installed over the weekend. Looking forward to the new sound and hopefully performance and mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 He said they used his truck for a mock up Recently? Thorley didn't have the tooling from all the previous runs? Used to be that they did a small run when there were enough orders placed, why some people waited for a year. That seems odd... replace studs With the supplied bolts? As long as they are decent grade, that is what I would do-and did. I see no benefit to studs... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 He is sending some ARB bolts but I also ordered 300ZX studs from Rob months ago. I like studs only 'cuz it aids in placement of the header/manifold during install. I will use the studs I imagine and have the bolts available to someone who needs them.... I thought that strange too about the mock up, that is why I was curious to the age of them. They look fine though, have the stamped label on them for CARB and seem to be the right ones... We will know soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 You will love those headers. The ones you're getting from kenny are the first production ones of the latest design. I havent even done a press release, email newsletter or Facebook post about them yet. If for some reason you have any issues with them, please let me know. I stay in pretty close contact with the guys at DT. im the one that pushed them to do the latest update and got Kenny's truck in the shop at DT. Sent while mobile, typos likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 So two questions Steeeeeevo, what is different about this design and why isn't Kenny using them? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Awesome to hear Steeevo! Kenny seems like a great guy and I am STOKED to get these prototype Thorleys. I am sure I will be on here, maybe PMing you or others when I do the swap. I am pretty good with a wrench but it looks like it is going to be a PITA, but worth it I am sure. I have not found a thread on the Thorley install, if there is one someone steer me there please. If not I will try to take lots of pics and a write up on the procedure.. Thanks to everyone on here that helps me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 You remove the old manifolds, down pipes and cross pipe to the pre cat pipe that houses the O2 sensor. In your case, remove the old studs and install the new ones. Mount the headers, but just barely, keeping the nuts as loose a possible (for movement) Assemble the Y pipe and cross over pipe and install using the same loose technique. Get everything aligned and in place, then start tightening things. The head studs are rated as something like 8-12 ft/lbs, so be gentle. More is not better... I used a thin coat of Permatex copper to stick everything together and help seal, no issues so far. You should retorque the header bolts after a few runs/heat cycles. No write ups?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31098-another-doug-thorley-header-leak-problem/?hl=%2Bthorley+%2Bheader+%2Binstall&do=findComment&comment=588653 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25869-hands-on-experience-with-doug-thorley-headers/?hl=%2Bthorley+%2Bheader+%2Binstall http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/15027-doug-thorley-header-install/?hl=%2Bthorley+%2Bheader+%2Binstall http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/8933-future-manifold-replacement/ Any other questions? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 So two questions Steeeeeevo, what is different about this design and why isn't Kenny using them? B The only issue that these headers really ever had is that they would crack more often than other sets of dt header because of too much heat at the tri y due to the rear most primary being so short. They are lifetime warranty so it was more of a nussance than anything having to redo an install. This is why I only have DT make them with ceramic coating and not the nickel option. The ceramic helps with heat dissipation. The new design shortens the tube between the tri y and the flange allowing for primarys to be a.few.inches longer also helping with heat dissipation to.prevent cracking. Overall an even better product. They also reangled the egr bung for an easier install. The egr Bung in the past was a little off making it a bit of a pain. Awesome to hear Steeevo! Kenny seems like a great guy and I am STOKED to get these prototype Thorleys. I am sure I will be on here, maybe PMing you or others when I do the swap. I am pretty good with a wrench but it looks like it is going to be a PITA, but worth it I am sure. I have not found a thread on the Thorley install, if there is one someone steer me there please. If not I will try to take lots of pics and a write up on the procedure.. Thanks to everyone on here that helps me! I've done these a handfull of times. And its really not too bad! Also, just so you know these aren't the prototypes, these are full production headers taken right out of the first full production batch. Let me know if you have any questions. Sent while mobile, typos likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks guys. I am looking forward to tackling this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkiBumBrian Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 Thanks for the links B....... Good info there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 18, 2014 Share Posted February 18, 2014 You are welcome. Holler if you need more info... It's not a hard job, I'd rate it a 3/10 without rust. Don't forget the lap joint band clamp. Some people like to weld the cross pipe, but that makes any disassembly a problem. The only issue that these headers really ever had is that they would crack more often than other sets of dt header because of too much heat at the tri y due to the rear most primary being so short. They are lifetime warranty so it was more of a nussance than anything having to redo an install. This is why I only have DT make them with ceramic coating and not the nickel option. The ceramic helps with heat dissipation. The new design shortens the tube between the tri y and the flange allowing for primarys to be a.few.inches longer also helping with heat dissipation to.prevent cracking. Overall an even better product. They also reangled the egr bung for an easier install. The egr Bung in the past was a little off making it a bit of a pain. Good info, thanks for that Bud. I have heard of some headers cracking, but even that is not the norm from what I understand. Hopefully I won't have to deal with it... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteeevO Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 I did forget to.answer one question.. why isn't Kenny running them?... he ended up selling his D21 HB pickup for a 2nd gGen frontier. Sent while mobile, typos likely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 Too bad, but I guess it was an upgrade for him. You are absolutely right, the earlier EGR bung didn't really line up right which is part of the reason for my "keep everything loose and get it assembled first" advice. It is cool that you got those changes worked in, I wasn't aware of that... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 19, 2014 Share Posted February 19, 2014 For the record, I have landed directly on my Y pipe (long tubes) while wheeling and not cracked anything. So I can attest that longer primaries resist cracking better My Y pipe also does not hang below the frame anymore... I wonder how that happened? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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