MrEviLDeD Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 If I am just swapping/replacing the emergency brake cables do I need to remove the rear drums? The FSM doesn't cover it specifically and underneath when I look it is still kind of dirty. Thought I would ask before I headed out so I was more mentally prepared for the task at hand. Sorry for all the questions lately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 For the two back cables, yes you have to remove the drums and shoes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Is there also a bolt on the back of the axle housing? (where the emergency brake cable passes through on the rearend/drum end of the cable) I went and bought a new brake set for the back since I have them apart anyhow. However the backing plates were taken from the box as were the studs... So kind of a setback as it appears to have been the only box in the city no matter who I call. I know it sounds stupid but I have only ever had disc brakes. I have never worked with either drum brakes nor the emergency brakes so I am completely clueless here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 If I remember right there are 2 bolts through the rear of the backing plate that hold the cable to the plate. If that's what you mean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Looks like one to me, as per BR-27 of the FSM. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Mine's a 1998 so it's probably different from your '93. I am sure there's a least one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Yes, the 1998 has two and as I look at the 1995 again, the diagram is so bad that there could be two as well. Either way, just take them all out... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 This is what I am talking about. Finally was able to get a picture of it. I cannot figure out how to get this out of the rear-end as it passes through to get to the drum brakes on the other side. HELP!!!! I have tried pulling. I have lightly tried turning with vice-grips. There are no nuts or screws as I can tell and I tried to clean off any dirt in the way... This is what stopped me yesterday actually. Here's the image... Can someone please shed some light on how to get this off or out ... It doesn't look like the other end would pass through and pulling it gives me the impression that eventually I will break it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Here is another shot of the area. Slightly better than the previous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 There should be a bolt right where your arrow is and another on the other side. Meaning cable in the middle with a bolt on the left and right. Have you looked on the inside to see if maybe someone has broken the bolts off before? Are there bolt ends to the nuts that are welded to the inside of the backing plates? And are both sides (drives and passengers) the same? It's looking pretty rusted in there (Canadian) I'm wondering if someone broke them off at sometime. The part at your arrow is part of the cable mount and shouldn't be part of the backing plate. The rubber plug should just be around the cable where the actually cable passes through the backing plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I am not sure what you mean. The red arrow is pointing at a rubble plug. When I remove this there is nothing but a hole. The image most likely doesn't show it well but the plug it is pointing at is about an inch or more away from where the cable goes through the rear-end. It is the cable I cannot remove. Inside the housing (will take another image in a couple minutes) it looks like solid metal. Be right back with a photo. I need to get this off and I have no idea what I am doing. I also do not want to break them either.. So trying to be delicate. Need someone to tell me if I pull on the cable to get it out, is it threaded into the rear-end? Anyhow I will get a front image and see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Well there should be rubber around where the cable passes though above where it should be bolted but to me it looks to me where your arrow is should be a bolt head. Do you have the drums off yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Again I'm talking about my '98, is your bolt above or below where the cable passes through? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 (edited) Ok here we go. This is another from the back (note that this is the rear drivers side). This should show you what I mean about the rubber stopper. That is all it is and it just covers a through hole with nothing in it. Here is a composite of the front of the drum with a left and right shot highlighting where the emergency cable comes through the rear-end. I see none of the bolts or the holes you mentioned. Edited February 13, 2014 by MrEviLDeD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Looking at the images over and over I can kind of see where there SHOULD have been a plate with a bolt through where that rubber plug is. So do I just get some grips around the smaller portion entering the metal and try to twist it out? This is becoming a nightmare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Ok, I crawled under mine, and there are no bolts on the outside, so that cable must be a slip fit into the back and only the cable goes through is my guess. If yours doesn't budge, it is probably rusted in place?. Do you not have the replacement cable? What does the end look like? Here is what it looks like without rust. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 I am reusing the cables from my rusted out pathfinder. The time constraints to getting new cables is prohibitive I only have a few more days to get it back on the road before I am stuck vehicle less. I cannot get the new pathfinder inspected without a working parking brake and it is completely rusted out in the newer pathy. So was going to reuse the old ones until I can get an order in....However seems they are just as much a night mare to get out as the rusted ones... Thank you very much for climbing down to take a picture I appreciate it. At least I know now there are no bolts or plates that are broken off or missing.. This is a good step forward. However not sure what to do.. Can I use penetrating oil on something like that? I was hoping that someone that has done this before could tell me of the cable is threaded or not.... Would help my next step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Ok, I get it. You are welcome, I should have done that sooner. With another look, it appears that the cable housing is clamped to a metal piece which has a flange on it (to locate it) and a smaller diameter after that which slides into a tube or passage on the back of the plate. I don't know the thickness of the sidewall, but if you can grab the flange with some pliers and rotate it to break it free and pull it out... Another bettter way if you have something appropriate is to stick something in from the otherside along side the cable so you are touching the end of that piece and tap it out, but I'm not sure that is possible so be gentle. Penetrating oil is always good, same with tapping on it with a metal object to 'ring' it. You might try some heat, but only on the base of the backing plate and not too hot. Save that for last. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Much better pic. I'm stumped, the cable housing and the backing plate should be two seperate parts as far as I know. Did someone weld the two togehter for a quicky saftey check? That would only be if they broke off a bolt but no I can't see where the bolt would have gone. Does the passanger side look the same? I was hoping someone with a '93 would have stepped in by now. Unless you can feed the new cable through the old sheathing I just don't know. I'm assuming both ends of the cables have factory ends on them so that wouldn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Does that ever look different without the rust! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEviLDeD Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Yea same on the passenger side as well. In fact it is the same all around on both pathfinders actually. Since the ones on the newer pathy are on their way out and rusted I am going to give them a college go tomorrow to get them out in hopes it will enlighten me on a good approach to get the cables off of the other pathfinder.... It is getting cold and dark out so will call it a night. I will grab an awl tomorrow and see about lightly tapping from the other side. As for pulling the cable through the sheathing. it is a bit larger than the hole through the backing plate so I am pretty sure that is a no go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Hey sorry I couldn't help and wish you the best. Where do you live in Canada? It's small enough maybe you're just around the corner from me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Ok, go to Rockauto.com, look up your year/model/etc and then go to parking brake cable. This will show what the end looks like, or close enough. The part after the flange towards the end is what slips into the backplate. Much better pic. I'm stumped, the cable housing and the backing plate should be two seperate parts as far as I know. Did someone weld the two togehter for a quicky saftey check? That would only be if they broke off a bolt but no I can't see where the bolt would have gone. Does the passanger side look the same? I was hoping someone with a '93 would have stepped in by now. Unless you can feed the new cable through the old sheathing I just don't know. I'm assuming both ends of the cables have factory ends on them so that wouldn't work. The cable housing is seperate from the backing plate, just his are rusted together. Does that ever look different without the rust! Yep. There is some old, really light underspray that will flake off it I rub it, underneath is factory gloss balck paint... B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kdj Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Ok, go to Rockauto.com, look up your year/model/etc and then go to parking brake cable. This will show what the end looks like, or close enough. The part after the flange towards the end is what slips into the backplate. The cable housing is seperate from the backing plate, just his are rusted together. Yep. There is some old, really light underspray that will flake off it I rub it, underneath is factory gloss balck paint... B Must be nice! I have rust, salt, sand, mud, ice and cow crap from the farm next door. Repete about 6 layers. But no paint under there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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