96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 10, 2013 Share Posted November 10, 2013 I chose to go with 2 type 25 batteries....stock size for the 96 R50. Battery from Costco: ~$90 Metal: $20. 1" x 1/16" angle and 1" x 1/16" flat stock. $20...was way too much, but I have other projects planned. (gas can mount, for example) Need: Welder, chop saw/cutting implement, drill, cutoff wheel, hammer, phillips and flat screwdrivers, other various tools and accessories. My measurements for each batter were (roughly) 8.75" x 7". These may change per what you use and how you orient the batteries in the available battery location. I used these photos as an example, but the battery trays are ~$25 each....so I made my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 You have to remove this tab for sure....and the mount for the power/ground/whatever (3 plugs). I cut them and left the horn? mount connected. You have to reroute the wires to the above mentioned connections, so they won't interfere with your mounting location. Frame and position the 2 frames. Then weld them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 I used large self tappers. Don't weld the mounts in...a mechanic in the future will be upset that he can't access things.... Be careful to not have it close to things that might vibrate and cut. (metal radiator hose, evap canister?, or cables, wires, etc.) Also...be forewarned....I had to clearance my hood for the wing nuts on the hold downs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 10, 2013 Author Share Posted November 10, 2013 (edited) I will take more pics in a week or two when I pull everything out to paint it. I also used a piece of flat stock about 2/3 out on the driver side battery for support and drilling into the mount. More to come after my Tmax dual battery system arrives. And the MRV50's might be better to use....I have a piece of rubber as spacers in between the battery caps. I notice the MRV50 batteries do not have caps to interfere with the custom retainer bar. Edited November 10, 2013 by 96Pathfinder4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Nice write up. You'll have to change the details in your sig now!! :laugh: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheAustinHenry Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 Awesome! Will put this on my list of future mods! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linkinpark Posted November 11, 2013 Share Posted November 11, 2013 We're your ac lines in the way at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 12, 2013 Author Share Posted November 12, 2013 We're your ac lines in the way at all? Nope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 13, 2013 Author Share Posted November 13, 2013 Parts arrived and awaiting install. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayjay6888 Posted November 24, 2013 Share Posted November 24, 2013 Nice job but why not go with 1 large battery? I was able to squeeze a grp 31 under my hood that has 120ah then I have 3 grp 31s in the rear along with a 200amp alternator Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhvaron Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 One question in this matter. Is it better to put 2 batteris or to put solar panels to keep one batery charge? Sent from my GT-I8190L using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted November 25, 2013 Share Posted November 25, 2013 I think its better to put two batteries, however two batteries plus solar panels would be even better, you can keep using your AUX battery when out camping and you don't need to start your car to charge it when it dies. The reason being most people run all their extra junk on the AUX battery This reduces the strain put on your Primary so only the functions your car came with run on your primary. If you are out four wheeling and you kill your battery those solar panels will be useless. You will be stranded with out a way to start your rig. Where as with the AUX you can do an internal jumpstart and limp out of the woods and get yourself home. Just my 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Nice job but why not go with 1 large battery? I was able to squeeze a grp 31 under my hood that has 120ah then I have 3 grp 31s in the rear along with a 200amp alternator I thought about it. It came down to redundancy. Suppose that I have electrical problems and my dual battery controller fails. At this time, my main battery is low or not functioning. Also I am in the middle of nowhere, by myself. Rather than using jumper cables to bridge the gap, I retain the option of switching batteries, starting the car and driving away. If one was larger than the other it would not fit in my battery mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 I made some progress yesterday. First, I pulled the batteries. Here's the pic I promised showing the mount. Those are 5/16" x 1.5" self tappers. I pulled and painted the mount. And re-installed. I picked up this extender/splitter for $15 at Autozone. The ground attaches behind the batteries at the stock location. I wanted to keep that body ground close to the batteries and the extender/splitter was just long enough to serve my purpose. Plus it provides another an extra connection point for the 2nd battery ground jumper. AND spare ground that I will use to connect to my front camera power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 I decided against running the wires through the fender after learning about the clutch delete plate. It provides a clean passage to the cabin and I'm 99.99% sure the TMax wiring is long enough. I decided to mount the solenoid on the driver's side firewall. Here you can see the battery connections the TMax comes with and a good look at the splitter's connections. The other is already connected to the factory ground wire, which is also tied to the factory body ground location. Starting the wiring. For reference, the TMax comes with plenty of cable, solder terminal ends, and heat shrink. I used flux core solder and a plumber's torch to solder the ends, then cut the heat shrink to the appropriate length and used a lighter to shrink it. (didn't want to bother with my extension cord to plug in the heat gun, since I don't have electricity in my garage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 (edited) Here's everything tidied up. I ziptied the battery-to-solenoid cables to the cruise control cable. I'm still debating locations for the RigRunner and TMax controller. I'm pretty sure I'm going to put the controller on the backside of the Passenger side sun visor. It fits nicely and I'm 99.99% sure the wires are long enough. Plus it will keep it out of view of prying eyes that may want to break into my Pathy. They probably won't know what it is, but think that it's valuable because it's electronic and rip it out. I hope to get everything buttoned up over Thanksgiving weekend. OH! The Red and Black cable should be mentioned....those are the power to my winch. After talking with the tech support at Tuff Stuff, the ground for the solenoids needed ran to the battery ground. It works fine now and with the new mods, it allowed me the place to attach it to the battery. Edited November 25, 2013 by 96Pathfinder4x4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 More info that I should add: I got the system here: $125 shipped was the best price I could find. http://www.carid.com/universal-winches/t-max-winch-accessories-104798.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 25, 2013 Author Share Posted November 25, 2013 Nice job but why not go with 1 large battery? I was able to squeeze a grp 31 under my hood that has 120ah then I have 3 grp 31s in the rear along with a 200amp alternator I can't edit my post....I misunderstood...I thought you were saying for my 2nd battery to be bigger. I think SilverPath summed it up well. I do plan to have a solar panel eventually. I'm thinking of having one that I store in the rear storage, then when I'm at camp I can pull it out and plug it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Enlighten me about the clutch delete plate if you would be so kind, I'm always up for rewiring to a better route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Theexbrit. Look to the right of your brake booster. Diamond in shape. Youll see it. On the inside its a pain to get to but doable Sent from my Moto X! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Nah... It's easy to get to. 2 12mm nuts under the hood and 2 13mm nuts and 1 13mm bolt inside. Falls right out. I will take pics. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 26, 2013 Share Posted November 26, 2013 Theexbrit. Look to the right of your brake booster. Diamond in shape. Youll see it. On the inside its a pain to get to but doable Sent from my Moto X! Nah... It's easy to get to. 2 12mm nuts under the hood and 2 13mm nuts and 1 13mm bolt inside. Falls right out. I will take pics. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk K. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 26, 2013 Author Share Posted November 26, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
96Pathfinder4x4 Posted November 27, 2013 Author Share Posted November 27, 2013 (edited) Borrowed a couple pics from Towncivilian that he posted NicoClub (I found in a google search on Saturday) Also: Hole drilled and grommet installed. The hole passed through the spot weld, so if I still need that mount for the box, I'll JB weld it back on. Edited November 27, 2013 by 96Pathfinder4x4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theexbrit Posted November 27, 2013 Share Posted November 27, 2013 Thanks for the photos! Looks like I have some re-wiring to do 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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