Darek Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 I was trying to open rear brake drum and I am stuck now. This is what I did: I jacked up one wheel, parking brake was released and transmission was set to P. The drum didn't want to open so I was hammering it for a while. Next I used two bolts 8x1.25 and I managed to pull drum for about 8 mm. Then I heard two sounds like loud click. Threads (for those 8x1,25 bolts) inside the drums have got broken so it must be locked very hard. The drum was still locked. After that at the backside I found two nails with arrows. I know that those nails keep some springs and now they are not any more. Finally I found a rectangle rubber cover at the backside and behind it was something that I thought is the adjuster. I managed to move it few times with flat screwdriver but the drum still won't open. I think it could be even more locked after that adjustment. Help me guys how to open that drum. I could re-thread bolt holes and use longer/bigger bolts. If nothing can be helped can I just put the wheel and drive it to a shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Sounds like the pads are locked to the drums and the click/pop you heard was the pads moving out with the drum and removing parts along the way. Right now, make sure to spray everything good with a liquid penetrate like Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster etc. Especially all metal on metal contact points. Your kinda in that grey zone to either get the drum off and fix what needs to be fixed. I wouldnt advise driving to a shop unless its last resort. If you do have access to the adjuster, keep trying to loosen it. (Cant recall which way, but should be in the FSM). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 After you moved the adjuster can you still spin the drum by hand? If not turn it the other way until there is no resistance on it. Usually when you hear a pop when backing the drum off with the bolts its because it finally released. Since you have the drum backed off the axle almost a cm you should be able to retap the holes for something bigger. You may need to modify the tapper on your tap so it starts cutting threads quicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Ok, I'll tray to spray it with WD40 and make a new thread. Currently I can not spin the drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 I think I might have squeeze/press the adjuster instead of loosening it. From the picture below it looks like one should use two screws and push the lever with one screw and then rotate upward adjuster wheel. I was rotating it downward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 I managed to remove the drum. I had to make a new thread for 10 mm bolt. I measured the drum and I think it has not more than 296 mm which is its limit. The pads have about 5 mm thickness. Do you think I should buy new drum and pads or only drum? I also found a leakage from piston/cylinder. I suppose it appeared during drum removal. What do you think about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelord Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Yep the wheel cylinder needs to be replaced. If you are replacing the drums. Then why not replace the pads? Unless they are outrageous priced in your area. But you can keep current one from what I can see in the pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverPath Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Them springs are looking alittle uh used also, you may want to get a hardware kit if you buy new shoes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 (edited) Darek, .you've already taken it apart...in my opinion, if you have the cash and know-how do a complete, thorough cleaning of the entire brake; (on both sides/both rear brakes) as you are cleaning, make a list of what needs to be replaced. As part of your cleaning, take a wire brush to every part; if things are very rusty (such as the springs shown) make a point to replace them, check the adjustment cable and ensure to replace rusty hardware (nuts and bolts) Keep in mind this is for safety and safety should come first. Replace the same things on both sides, don't skimp. I.E.- If you replace springs on one side, do it on the other, even if the other springs look better than the first. New springs will be stronger than old ones so your braking performance might suffer if your braking forces are uneven due to the differenc between new and old springs. It looks like your piston is damaged so you will need to replace it. Again, my recommendation, if you are able to, would be to replace both. Usually when one goes, the other is not far behind (except when there has been deliberate damage) Usually, unless the shoes are fairly new and/or completely undamaged, drum and shoes are replaced together. Look for and think of uneven wear of the shoes and how that will impact the drum itself. I've seen people replace just drums or rotors only to suffer from poor braking performance or damaged brake parts. After you've cleaned and replaced, don't forget to clean the drum surface that will be touching the shoes. Again, if your budget allows, replace now. You will feel much more confidence in your truck's abilities knowing that everything will be working as it should, rather than wondering when the next thing will go. Edited July 4, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Bluewulf73, thank you for a comprehensive description. I definitely will go with new cylinder and thorough cleaning. I am going to take the drums to a shop to measure its diameter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 I finished replacing drums. I have new shoes, new drums, new springs and new cylinders. But unfortunately I don't feel any improvement in braking. I have some photos below. First is my spring compressor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 (edited) Looks good Darek! I forgot to recommend that you bleed the system. I hope you bled your brake system. If you haven't replaced the fluid for a while, (40,000 KM or more) I would recommend using new fluid and bleeding. Not too sure about a flush, but for sure, using new fluid and bleeding the system to get rid of air bubbles which could cause a squishy pedal feel, uneven braking and even overheating of the brake system. Is that copper compound on the hub face to prevent it and the drum from rusting and sticking to each other? Edited July 9, 2013 by Bluewulf73 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darek Posted July 9, 2013 Author Share Posted July 9, 2013 The brake fluid is fresh as i flushed it two months ago and I bled system now too. It is copper compound on the hub. I didn't adjust the adjuster so maybe this is the reason I don't feel any difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluewulf73 Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 i thought it was sefl-adjusting...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted July 11, 2013 Share Posted July 11, 2013 Sometimes the mechanism fails to work as intended (lack of lube, dust build up, etc) plus the adjuster has to wait for an entire groove in its mechanism before adjusting, so it may take a while. Also if it is adjusted too tightly it can't loosen itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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