CV Boot Replacement v Axle Replacement

[mega4ce]

Hey Guys. I am looking for some advice from you all about what I should do in regards to my driver side torn CV boot. I bought my 2001.1 Pathy used with 90k miles on it. I have put about 3k on it in about 8 months and have a complete tear on my driver CV boot. I am not sure how long it has been like that. I live in CA and don't have to often worry about wet weather and off-roading is only a couple times a year. There also is no clicking coming from the axle, yet. I will need to do a front brake job sooner than later as well. So my questions are, should I replace just the CV boot or preemptively the entire axle? I have not done a CV boot before and it seems pretty labor intensive. I have the skills and tools to do so but I am bit wary to attempt it without help. I did the Warn hub upgrade already which is when I noticed the torn boot. Any insight/advice is welcome.

 

Also, is this something that should be incorporated into the brake job and what do you recommend for parts on both the axle and cv boots?

[mel.d]

If you're not lifted, replace the axle. Changing the boots isn't difficult. You will need a jaw puller (I rented one from Auto zone) and c-clip pliers.

[bushnut]

If you can do a hub install you can replace the boot. I just did mine. long story short....removing the drive side axle is not so difficult. get a haynes manuel and you'll be able to figure it out.

[5523Pathfinder]

Well, for the cost of the boot kit(you will need both), you can just get a remanufactured axle. Some companies offer a lifetime warranty with them. Either way, the brake components need to come off and the front knuckle removed. Unbolting the axle and bolting the new one in is not very difficult. You will need a few special tools, btu none super hard to find. There are several write-ups in the garage section. I have one as well and will go find the link.

 

Here is mine. Yes it's on a wd, but r50's aren't much different..

 

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28120

Edited June 3, 2013 by 5523Pathfinder

[XPLORx4]

A new CV axle will cost you about $75 at your local auto parts store, and you can do the swap in about an hour if you've got the right tools, and your hands will stay nearly completely grease-free. Replacing the CV boots will cost you about $15-$20, and you'll need an additional special CV boot strap tightening tool, which will cost you an extra $20 or more.

 

You still have to do the exact same labor as replacing the CV axle, but you have the added effort of disassembling the CV joints, removing the old boots, cleaning the old grease (and dirt) out, installing new boots and grease, and reassembling the CV.

 

How much is your time worth? If you replace the boots, figure on an extra hour for teardown of the CV axle, plus extra time for cleanup.

 

If it were me, I would just swap the axle with a new one (not a remanufactured one). The price difference is inconsequential, and the effort saved by not doing the boot swap is totally worth it.

 

Here's a previous thread on this issue: click me

[XPLORx4]

By the way, replacing the CV axle on the R50 doesn't require actually removing any parts except the tire and a hub cap. You don't need to remove the knuckle or brakes or any of that.

 

The last time I replaced my CV axle due to a small 3/4" tear in the boot, I kept the old one, used some Shoe Goo on it, and boxed it back up as a spare.

Edited June 3, 2013 by XPLORx4

[mega4ce]

Thanks for the suggestions. The more I look in to this I think I will go with the whole axle. Since I have no idea when the tear happened I would hate to replace the boot and then have to do the axle in a short time.

[XPLORx4]

Here's a quick how-to for replacing the CV axle:

 

TOOLS NEEDED:

1. Jack

2. Jack stand(s)

3. Lug wrench

4. Snap-ring pliers (about $10)

5. 3/8" ratchet/driver

6. 12mm socket or ratcheting box wrench

7. 17mm deep socket

8. Screwdriver or putty knife

9. Vise-grips or large pliers

10. Hammer

 

REMOVAL

1. Jack up truck and place on jackstands under the chassis (not the A-arms).

2. Remove tire

3. Remove hub cap on drive flange. Use a flat screwdriver or putty knife to pry it off as you rotate the hub cap with vise-grips.

4. Using snap-ring pliers, remove the snap ring on the CV axle splines (behind the hub cap you just removed).

5. Using a 12mm ratcheting wrench or socket/driver, remove all 6 bolts holding the inner CV axle to the differential flange. To access each pair of bolts, rotate the brake rotor and then to keep it from rotating while loosening the bolts, stick a screwdriver through the brake caliper and the brake rotor vents.

6. Remove 3 17mm nuts from the ball joint and pry/wiggle the ball joint studs out of the A-arm, then swing the A-arm downward

7. Tap the outer end of the CV axle with a hammer to dislodge it from the drive flange and slide it towards the center of the vehicle through the opening created by swinging the A-arm downwards.

8. If the thrust washer is still attached to the outer shaft of the original CV axle, remove it and install it in the same orientation on the new CV axle.

 

INSTALLATION

1. Slide the CV axle back into the hub through the opening created by the swung-down lower A-arm.

2. Hand-thread the 6 12mm bolts holding the inner CV axle flange to the differential flange.

3. Reinstall ball joint and tighten the 3 17mm nuts

4. Tighten 6 12mm bolts holding CV axle to differential flange, first, one per each pair of three, then tighten the second one of each pair. Don't forget to insert that screwdriver through the rotor vents to keep it from spinning.

5. Reinstall snap ring. You may need to pull axle fully through the hub to fully access to the snap ring channel.

6. Reinstall hub cap.

7. Reinstall tire

8. Remove vehicle from jackstands

 

DONE!

 

NOTE: Alternatively, in lieu of removing the ball joint to provide clearance to pull out the CV axle, you may opt to remove the large bolts holding the A-arm to the subframe. There's one long bolt and nut at the front and two bolts at the rear of the A-arm. I think they're 7/8 or 21mm. I forget. This can be more inconvenient because you'll need to remove the splash guard to do this, and those bigger fasteners might need a 1/2" drive or air wrench to remove. The benefit is that that you don't have to fight the torsional resistance of the A-arm bushings or wrangle the ball joint studs through the A-arm, which can be challenging due to the weight/angle of the strut/knuckle assembly.

Edited June 3, 2013 by XPLORx4

[drewp29]

NOTE: Alternatively, in lieu of removing the ball joint to provide clearance to pull out the CV axle, you may opt to remove the large bolts holding the A-arm to the subframe. There's one long bolt and nut at the front and two bolts at the rear of the A-arm. I think they're 7/8 or 21mm. I forget. This can be more inconvenient because you'll need to remove the splash guard to do this, and those bigger fasteners might need a 1/2" drive or air wrench to remove. The benefit is that that you don't have to fight the torsional resistance of the A-arm bushings or wrangle the ball joint studs through the A-arm, which can be challenging due to the weight/angle of the strut/knuckle assembly.

 

 

I would endorse this. I have removed mine I think 7 or 8 times now and this is the easiest method IMO. Use an impact to get these out because they will be pretty cranked, BUT hand thread the two at the rear on reinstallation because they are easily cross thread. Once you've taken one off, it will be easy should you need to do another.

[mega4ce]

Thanks for the step-by-step XPLORx4. I found a brand new axle for under $70 at my local auto parts store. I already have all of the tools needed and a 1/2 ratchet if I go that route. My only question is with Warn manual hubs on my truck do I just need to remove the cap or the entire unit to do the job?

[XPLORx4]

If you have Warn hubs, you only need to remove the outer cap so you can access the snap ring. Dealing with Warn hubs is actually easier than trying to pry the stock hub cap off.