red95xe Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Gentlemen- I would like to know if any of you have ever installed aftermarket headers on a V6/2WD (W)D21 chassis. The reason I ask this is that no one seems to make a specific (W)D21 header for 2WD/5-Speed Pathfinders or Hardbody's. As well, I know that both the Hardbody and Pathfinder are very similar as far as the chassis is concerned. With the 2WD/5-Speed, there seems to be a problem with the long tube headers fitting due to the location of torsion bars and transmission (2WD layout). And if your wondering, I've checked on some of the other Nissan Truck forums and have totally struck out. The best options that I can come up with are: 1. Experimental Engineering's V6 Headers (Build your own y-Pipe) 2. Doug Thorley's 4X4 (Y-Pipe has to modified) 3. OBX - 300zx (z31) - possibly? Thanks for any suggestions. I'm trying to avoid dropping a bunch of money on exhaust components that won't fit properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I didn't realize the T-bars were located differently on 2wd VS 4wd, that almost doesn't make sense. Do you need to deal with smog laws where you are? That would limit you to choice #2 right off the bat. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) Smog laws - yes we do in the state of Georgia. If necessary, I can get around that pretty easily. The torsion bar info. came from another source (Infamous Nissan Forums). That doesn't make sense to me either, since both 2WD and 4WD torsion bars fit the 2WD chassis. The big thing here is the fitment the Collector and Y-Pipe. Not only that, but option #1 and #2 are pushing $600.00/ with coating. All that for about an estimated 10-15 HP. Edited April 7, 2013 by red95xe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Well, the Thorleys are the only ones that are smog legal, in California anyway. Apparently you can get the EGR bung in the EE headers which might be good enough where you are, I don't know your local laws. My pathy is currently in the garage on jackstands with Thorleys mounted so I think I can help you figure this out. Can you take pictures of your T-bar mounts (not too close) front and rear with measurements of how far apart they are and maybe something off of the frame or cross member? I'll compare them to mine and I can take pictures of the header clearances as well. Since it is a 2wd, I'm assuming you don't have a body lift... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 (edited) Good Deal. At best, I'll be able to post pics with measurements tomorrow. No time for it today. As far as the body lift goes, this truck is not lifted. It's more of a street truck. You'll see tomorrow. Edited April 7, 2013 by red95xe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 Well, here we go. I hope these pics. give enough info. on the 2WD/5-Speed header options. My measurements on the TB's are 40+ inches long and they are equally spaced 20 inches both front and back. Here are my thoughts. It looks as if either EE and DT Headers should work because of the location of the collector. However, they are pretty pricey for the amount of power you get back from them. In reality, I was hoping that the OBX Headers would fit with no problems because of the price ($185.00). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) Edited April 8, 2013 by red95xe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Thanks for posting decent pictures, you wouldn't believe the pointless crap people post with the disclaimer of 'sorry for the crappy picture', rather than go take a decent one... Ok, that is completely different! For starters, my T-bars are 24" center to center, front and rear. I forgot to measure the length but that shouldn't matter... It looks to me like the cross over and the Y pipe would need modification because the T bars aren't more than an inch to the outside of the pipes. Ok, so your call from here on what you would like better pictures of, or what measurements. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Good pictures as well sir. From what I see here, it looks as if both the EE and DT headers will fit to the block & chassis without too much drama. The hard part is where the Y-Pipe comes into play, if at all. I would think a high end exhaust/muffler shop should be able to handle the job well enough. Yesterday, I sent an email to EE to see what they know about the situation. I might just direct them to this post as well. Now I have to ask myself if i want to take a chance on a few hundred dollars purchase just to find out. If all else fails, then I have a final option. It would be enlarging the opening of the exhaust manifold by about an 1/8 of an inch. And then port/polish the insides the best I can. After that send the exhaust manifolds out to have them Thermal Coated. Finally, rebuild the exhaust system from the manifolds to the catalytic converter. I'm currently running a custom 2 1/8" cat back system. First, I have to get this motor rebuilt, I'll be running ISKY regrinds ( 264H - .450" lift). Now you can see why it's important to get the exhaust system sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 I didn't have it set right for full depth of view focus, but should be sufficient, and like I said, I can take any other shots or measurements. If you could get the Thorley headers without the pipes, and have those custom fitted. Yes, no issue for a good shop. EE is MR510 here IIRC but he doesn't come around much anymore. I bought my headers 4(?) years ago for $409 shipped with the nickel coated and being a direct fit, it was worth it to me. The rest is a 2" magnaflow cat and 2.25" back through a Flowmaster Delta 60. Probably not ideal from a tuner standpoint, but I'm not that sophicticated and it is far superior to the stock set up. Yep, with cams (and intake/MAF?) mods, it would be good to get it properly set up! Since EE makes his own, perhaps you can just get the headers and no piping from him, and go to a custom shop from there? His design is beefy and has nice ball socket seals... You didn't mention the Pace Setter headers as an option. They are cheaper and might be more reasonable to buy and modify. While I'm not an exhaust expert, I doubt you can get the stock series manifold design to perform as well as even a simple header system. I'm sure you can get this worked out and definitely keep us informed! So is this a street sleeper, lowered show vehicle or what? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Actually, It's a rather ordinary looking red D21 with the XE-V6 decal on the side. I'll wash it and post some pics for everyone. It still looks pretty nice and it ran flawlessly. Until I redlined it doing donuts about 5 years ago. Since then, It sits in the driveway. Get's started about every 2 months to keep stuff from freezing up. I have a replacement motor that's torn apart ready for the machine shop ( complete rebuild ) w/ soon to be Ported and Polished heads, new valves, valve springs,...the whole nine yards. Pistons, crank, etc. ( I'll take pics of my work area ). Back to the headers, I should have mentioned earlier that the Pathfinder's Long-Tube Pacesetter's and OBX's look as if they are going to run into the torsion bars. I can see where there is more space for the header collectors and Y-Pipe. So I counted them out from the get go. Otherwise, I had planned to the OBX route and have them Thermal Coated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Here'w where we're at. The original motor has a spun rod bearing. The replacement motor has a bad crank ( broken snout and bent ). This motor will under go a full rebuild with original crank turned down and new, upgraded internals will be installed with the reground cams that I just got in today. The specs. on the cams are 264 dur. - .450" lift - 114* LSA. This explains why the header choice is so important. I'm hoping for a pretty quick street truck. However, even with cams, intake, and exhaust, these motors still struggle to make over 175 HP to the rear wheels. Bummer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 It does have Pathfinder rims on it. So we got something in common. One of the reasons that I post here is that I find the Nissan Hardbody sites really lacking in technical - Know How. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 You should of went VG33 like a bunch of WD21 owners have done. Probably too late to go that route? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Looks good! ^T-man has a good point. A popular swap for us WD21 guys is the VG33 that puts out 170ish stock, install WD21 cams (you can use the ones you have), then headers, intake and larger MAF. Might even hit 200hp that way. If not, you can put in pistons from a Q45 (?) motor to make a VG34... If you aren't too far along or have too much invested, you really might want to look into that! Still 175hp would make a 2wd hardbody scoot along pretty darn good. Do you have LSD in the rear? If not, another upgrade you might want to consider... Yep, same rims as my 1999.0 R50. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 You should of went VG33 like a bunch of WD21 owners have done. Probably too late to go that route? Actually, it's not too late to go VG33E. I haven't bought the pistons yet. If I go VG33, the cost of the build increases $450.00 for a JY block and Sealed Power pistons. I haven't ruled it out yet. Here in the south, the JY's want $800.00 for a decent motor. The block on the engine stand is a JY block that has blocked coolant passages and a bad crank. This time, I want to be sure everything works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 As far as a LSD goes, all of my records say that I do. However, all I've ever experienced is one-tire-fire when I jumped on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Holy crap, do you not have a Pick n Pull nearby? I can get 2 entire motors for that I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 I haven't had any luck. I may have to try outside of the Atl. metro area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) Me thinks you need to talk to someone outside your area and have it freighted, it would probably be cheaper. As far as a LSD goes, all of my records say that I do. However, all I've ever experienced is one-tire-fire when I jumped on it. Any orange sticker on the pumpkin? Jack up the rear and spin one tire, if the other spins the opposite direction, you have LSD. Or is it the same way? DAmn, I can never remember... B Had to look it up. Spins the same way=LSD, Spins opposite=open diff. Edited April 10, 2013 by Precise1 brain cloud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Me thinks you need to talk to someone outside your area and have it freighted, it would probably be cheaper. Any orange sticker on the pumpkin? Jack up the rear and spin one tire, if the other spins the opposite direction, you have LSD. Or is it the same way? DAmn, I can never remember... B Had to look it up. Spins the same way=LSD, Spins opposite=open diff. Mine spins the opposite yet all my vehicle records say that I have an LSD. Well, I guess they lied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Maybe it has been changed? Go to the Services section in the Classifieds and look for the thread by Alkorahil. He runs an online parts department (best prices and service you can find) at a dealership in Texas. Call or PM him with the VIN and he can tell you what it was from the factory, but the test doesn't lie. If you beef up the motor, might as well put in a LSD. I even went out and tested mine in the garage just now to be 3x sure. LSD spins the same way... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Good deal about the LSD. I'll give Mr. Alkorahil a shout and see what he thinks. Back to the motor deal. Some thing that I recently remembered was how the Frontier/Exterra guys were complaining about was how down on power their motors were. A couple even took theirs to the dyno and came up with 128HP and another came up with 132HP to the rear wheels (stock everything). That's what a VG30E puts out on average. So that got me thinking about how the extra 10% displacement is offset with a slight loss in compression ratio. It's still a tough call, I was hoping to get through this build at about $1,500.00+. I'll check the Pick-N-Pulls again to see if anyone has a VG33E block cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alkorahil Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 PM me your VIN and I will double check Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red95xe Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Just found a VG33E block for $200.00, 17 miles away. Does $200.00 sound about right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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