enkrypt3d Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 So my tach doesn't work and I've read that the tach resistor is connected to the distributor cap - is that the small black thing that's connected just to the right of the distributor cap? I tried pulling on it to see if its easily removed but it doesn't appear to be and its hard wired into the wiring harness .... The nissan dealership couldn't identify the part but the part number is 24336-c9900 - http://www.courtesyparts.com/resistor-a-p-300014.html I can not seem to find a part that looks like this in the engine bay or is this the one behind the instrument cluster? Ok so now for a slightly different topic - what in the heck is going on with the positive side of my battery!? It was like this when I bought it .... there are a few of the blue relays laying near the battery and wires spliced everywhere... I have no idea what is going on here and any help would be greatly appreciated! I have a closeup shot of it if needed... Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hytekrednek Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Damn dude it looks like there has been an electrical fire in there as some point by the melted plastic on the neg terminal cable. I don't have a clue as to where to start. Maybe see if you can find a completely stock truck and compare the two. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 I don't think there's been a fire as there's no evidence of it - maybe the ground wires are shredded but when I got the truck, it had a very large amp (5K watts) and 2 15" subs in the back that did not come with the truck.... I had a stereo shop remove most of the cables which was connected to the + side of the battery but I dont get what is still connected to the + side of the battery? And for the tach resistor is that the thing on the bottom right of the distributor cap?? It would be nice to know what the engine is doing as var as revs go ...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tungsten Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Looks like you are missing a fusible link there. Someone just rigged it up so the engine could start. The tach can fail at the cluster. You can try a different cluster or tightening up the screws in the back of yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enkrypt3d Posted April 7, 2013 Author Share Posted April 7, 2013 Can someone post a picture of their battery area? I know the blue things are the relays and they should be mounted to the inside of the engine bay on passenger side fender...... but that harness that is wired, anyone have something to compare it to? I tried googling but that didn't help much thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 The 1 closst to the batt looks like the interlock relay if it is there should be 2 10 gauge wires and 2 14 or 16 gauge wires. also the neg batt cable looks like it's been very hot and a fuse link looks like its been micky moused, there should be a couple of brackets on the fender well for them to mount to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fixinto Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Here is what i did for my R50, It worked well for me. when the tach would peg at 8k while i was at idle. If you guys are Pre R50 im not sure it will work, i believe our clusters are similar, but at the same time i read somewhere that you guys have a voltage regulator in yours that craps out. So if its dropping to 0 disregard but if its pegging at 8k. and sometimes it works and sometimes not. This can help you. "it didn't help 2 guys that tried it but its not to say it wont help you because it perma fixed mine on the first shot. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34967-pesky-tachometer/?p=686664 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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